Yes there were millions of 383s, 400s, and 361s built. The total number of 440s was around 750,000.

So we may not run out for a while! But one is much more likely to run across a 383 and several years ago my brother scrapped a 361 because he literally couldn't give it away. That was before cheap stroker cranks. I'd like to build a 455 out of a 361 block. 4.125 x 4.25, same as the family Olds.

R.

Crickets? Any thoughts?

So this question is OBE and I probably just dodged a bullet.....I was remeasuring the "fully assembled with rings" short block deck heights and I noticed that my 30+ year old Craftsman dial indicator that I had been using to find TDC was giving some pretty erratic readings with just the slightest changes in plunger pressure. On close inspection, I found that all of the screws that hold the mechanism together were loose. I tightened them up and it was better, but it still seemed inconsistent. So, I picked up a mint used Browne & Sharp/Tesa indicator off fleabay and carefully remeasured everything (twice) using my depth micrometer and came up with totally different deck height numbers:

1: .002
2: .004
3: .002
4: .003
5: .003
6: .003
7: .004
8: .004

So between my indicator problems and my measuring technique, I was originally off by a mile. If I had gone .027 gasket, it probably would have eventually gone boom.

Note to myself: check/calibrate tools, pay close attention, double check critical clearances!

So final quench/CR numbers are .041/10.65 to .043/10.60 with Felpros

Time to install heads and measure for pushrods.

Did you measure the deck clearances on the cam side or the motor mount side of the block with your depth mike?
If so or not how about the measurement over the wrist pins?
I use to rock the piston from the inside to the outside and average the measurements until I had pistons touching the cylinder heads at .035 average, which was less than that at the max deck height on both sides of the pistons
I actually needed a minimum of .035 from the highest point
Make sure you measure all eight pistons, especially if your using stock rods Which I see now that you did
I've seen .017 differences in deck heights on several builds using stock rods
Looking at your measurements I would probably swap #1 and #7 piston and rod to see if the deck height differences are in the rods and pistons or on the block machining

Many stock eliminator guys have been playing around with the 361 with some good results. Problem is there are not enough rolling cars to put them in. Bore to 383 specs, forged crank and rods with TF heads and that a lot of power. Big bore, short stroke, beat GM all day long.

Cab, I measured across pin axis as far towards center as I could on both forward and rear, took the average, then measured top of bore (valley side) and bottom of bore (mount side) and took average. The average numbers across the two axis' matched up pretty close, like within .0005. I did it twice to be sure. I'm thinking for the next build it will be quicker to use and indicator bridge and a good indicator with a sharp point right in the center of the piston, takes the rock out of the picture.

This build uses K-1 rods, so length is pretty close.

I hear you on the factory rods. The original 383 in the car now has lengths all over the map, +/- .004 even with measuring and selecting from 2 sets of rods, and having some strategic resizing done.

The rods that originally came in my Bee from the factory were a joke, one had an improperly machined rod bolt seat and was cracked, another was actually bowed towards the front of the block. It ran for 120K miles that way and never blew! I got this car when I was 16 so its not like I didn't try........

Some body up stairs loves you
I have broken more parts racing and running them hard than I should have
Keep up the search for excellence

So I mocked up my valvetrain today and it appears that an 8.250 overall length ball cup pushrod is just right. I'll be running crane 1.6 iron rockers and comp Edm lifters on beehive springs. Anyone have a nice set of 8.250 overall length pushrods for sale before I hit up smith bros?

Call Manton first 951-245-6565 and ask them about a set for your motor. I've used both and I prefer Manton for almost every application including all out race motors
There 40 miles north of you and they have better products and probably better pricing than smith Bros. does now
I may have a complete set of that length in either 5/16 or 3/8 ball and 5/16 cups if you want me to look for you I will
Do you want 8.25 over all length or from the bottom of the cup to the tip of the ball (effective length)

Cab, PM Sent

Cab, took your advice, called Manton, real nice folks. Driving up to Lake Elsinore to pick up pushrods Tuesday. Custom pushrods for ~$40 more than the off-the-shelf pushrods from the big cam grinders, way cheaper than one cam company in particular. I'd call that a good deal. Thanks.

BTW, none of the off-the-shelf pushrods I found have the correct ball on lifter end for EDM ifters. While the EDM solid lifters will technically work with 3/8 ball end, the 5/16 actually gives way better contact area.

So while mocking up the crane 1.6 irons and manton pushrods, I discovered something that a lot of you probably already know. The combo of 3/8 pushrods, low deck block, stealth heads, and 1.6 rockers equals lots of cutting for pushrod clearance. If I had it to do over again, I would have gone with 11/32 pushrods and made my life a little easier.

At least at .095 wall, these Mantons should be be able to handle any future cam upgrades.