Well good thing I don't have really high power, that's a relief.

Yeah, right

I will be trying out my first aluminum block soon. Birdtracker

I guess it's time for me to research the subject a little deeper... you guys have done surprisingly well with an aluminum block... and definitely headed in the right direction... I was never one that thought N/A and aluminum blocks went together in the same subject... 100 lb lose on my car would be huge... time for me to do homework I guess.. I guess number one question would be how would the car work..being 100 lb lighter on the nose.. that will be my starting point..

Shiloh you will end up like us. Moving EVERYTHING in the car back up front. We have moved literally everything, there is nothing left on the back of the car these days. We are at 54/46 after all the work. But it is a very short wheelbase car that is EXTREMELY sensitive to weight. BUT IMO the block is well worth its weight Building ANY racecar as light as possible allowing the weight to be moved to where it will best help the car work is the key. We are now no longer the wheelie king of the class putting it on the bumper round after round. FWIW we laso have an aluminum block in my Stratus and Dragster, had one in the Cuda too, but they don't make big power anyway...


Birdtracker interesting FBS set up there. Be anxious to see how it works for you.

Have you run the fbs heads before? I have a motor going together with a set, just picked up a hogan sheet metal intake for them

the big thing about the indy maxx aluminum block is check your header clearance at the bottom. it's wider down there and may give you some clearance issues. just a heads up.

What heads are those?

Give the boyz at BEST Machine in Michigan a shout if you wanna find the gremlins and angels in the aluminum alloy blocks. They seem to have it all locked down and are machining a host of Indy blocks to perfection.
That being said, myself compared to anyone here on the issue of weight, I am still running an iron factory block. But then again, I'm not making as much steam as some of you guys are.
Maybe an aluminum block is in the future unless I trim enough weight off the car all together to not need the special alloy block.

It's to bad that the compacted graphite blocks are not floating around.

Couldn't float at their weight. LOL.

Compacted graphite blocks are EXTREMELY heavy. The heaviest block I ever have picked up was the spare 99 Hemi block we had. It was a very short deck block with one side of the skirt milled away. No one likes machining them as they are hard on equipment too. FWIW my 99 Hemi ready to race, carbs to pan weighed in at 885lbs! For comparison my aluminum B1 is 525lbs

Dang
That is like old school iron headed hemis with Nascar rods and 5 lb pistons!

I just got my 472 back together so I am going to race the rest of this year. I have this 540 to get ready for next spring. I have had alot of guidance from a racer in Minnesota that is running Fred Brewers. Moparhound I am going to send you a pm. Birdtracker

Must be Vern

Al: absolutely. He really opened my eyes about a few things. His car is a work of art. Birdtracker

He is a good guy and likely has more experience with them than most anyone else does for sure.

Al, how much HP and torque differences between the two motors?
My thinking that a lot of the fast full chassis cars needing more front weight on them like you found out wouldn't mind the extra weight of a iron block up front, maybe not

in doing a little reading on the blocks, it was stated the blocks can be lightened a fair bit and still have a lot of strength. It also stated that the correct tooling is readily available but since milling speeds require half the rpm and half the feed speed the machining costs are probably 3 times then grey iron. OK Al.....you talked me out of it.