Finally got around to firing my friend's 511 on a 400 block motor. When adding coolant for the first time the head bolt circled in the pic below started to leak coolant; after firing the motor and running for 20 minutes it continued to leak but stopped leaking for a while after shutdown. Still has a slow leak when cold.

The heads are Stealth, the head bolts are ARP. I checked all my other blocks and this bolt hole (or any other) doesn't extend into the water jacket. No coolant leaks externally from the head gasket or into the combustion chamber. And, of course, the header flange prevents getting a wrench on the bolt but I torqued them myself to ARP specs/procedures.

Has anyone ever found a head bolt hole that is wet? Any history of Stealth heads cracking in that area? The block is from a '72 D-100.

My guess is a crack in the head.

with it dripping before it was even fired I would think badly warped head/block/bad head gasket letting coolant bleed over from a nearby coolant hole since we're thinking the bolt hole is blind.

After rereading this, what R3 said, a cracked alum head sounds more likely.

My RB has a 1/4" hole in the corners[by the locating dowel ] and 1 time I forgot to rtv them and a leak like yours was the result but by the gasket.

Id re torque and run a bottle of ceramic sealer through it myself or re torque and heat cycle it a few times with no rad cap on so not to pressurize the system and see if it works itself out but would watch the oil as well.

Sharp looking project.

Stealth...as in 440 Source Stealth? How old are they...as in when did you order them? I had three crack, in that same exact location, and if thats the case they're junk.

Yeah, 440 Source Stealth; that's disconcerting, this set was in the first batch sold about 8 years ago (project had many delays).

A39Coronet, did the cracks manifest themselves as head bolt leaks?

Might get lucky with a stop leak to see if any effect. Permanent is another question. Probaly best to pull the head. Could it be head gasket close to cooling port in block/head?

Is that a 33 Willies?Tell me more.

John, just remove that bolt and wrap threads with teflon tape. If it still leaks after that you've got a head problem. Also, make sure it's not leaking from that header stud/bolt above it. Some of those are wet holes and if not sealed they can leak, run down the inside of the header flange onto the head bolt and make it look like a head bolt leaking.

I would use K Seal in it. It is a special coolant sealant that is different than Barrs Leak which may work also. Just not as permanent as K Seal.

Plus K Seal is made for cracked engines and has saved many motors.
I have a retired mechanic friend who years ago suggested I use it in a cracked 4 cyl forktruck motor and it sealed it up for another 15 years of use.

K seal check it out. It is used/applied differently than Barrs Leak too, heads up.

The Stealths exh holes are all dry.Mine have been on since the first run.never a problem.What head gaskets did you use.I know the first sets had a chamber problem.I run Fel Pro marine gaskets.Rocky

Yup, first batch had a big cracking issue. Mine also originated at that same bolt location, and leaked as soon as it got any temperature. They replaced mine, and I finally got them to send me a set of Edelbrock Victor's (I paid the difference), and have been running them ever since.

Take some pics as it sits now, and then more when you yank the heads off. Hopefully your friend has the documents showing when they were purchased, maybe 440 Source will determine they were part of the bad batch and stand behind them. Then, replace them with Edelbrock RPMs (they are an Edelbrock dealer) or another American Made SR head. Don't bother trying any "fix", besides trying to get a refund.

I was very grateful that they worked with me, and continue to buy "certain" things from them...just not heads or rotating assemblies.

440 source has fixed the problem, it would be nice to just get some replacement 440 source heads.

I think in this case it depends on how they fix the issue. If they replace them, sure, use them. But if they say "no, sorry, it's been too long"...would you want to send them another $1000, simply out of principal?

I agree, I was saying if they warranty the defective ones.

Part of the cracking problem with the first gen heads so I've been told was the holes for the dowel pins weren't machined deep enough. When the head was torqued the pin bottomed out before the gasket fully crushed.

If those are some first gen heads that's probably what happened.

Maybe some talent with a TIG welder can save them if you can't get warrantee but I think if you use the right approach they might give you some help. My dealings with Brandon were always positive. I'm assuming he still owns the place.

I know it's a pain but I would confirm with Source if what I heard/read on here was true and if so, pull the other head and measure the dowel pin depth and correct if necessary. Just because it hasn't cracked yet doesn't mean the headbolt stress prying on it won't crack it later.

Kevin

Well, after we got the header off you could see the hairline crack from the spark plug hole to the bolt hole.

My friend called 440 Source and they acknowledge that the first batch was bad, they replaced them free for 4 yrs. but that's long past so they offered to sell him a new pair at cost....he's gonna go that way.

Have them thoroughly checked and corrected, guide clearance, dowel pin depth, fix the valve job and do some housecleaning in the bowls and they should serve him well.

I've heard the seat inserts need to be blended into the bowls and IMHO there is no such thing as a mass produced performance valve job so correcting those things should get them to at least flow advertised numbers.

Nice that after 8 years they offered some assistance.

Kevin