Re: HELP DRUM BRAKES!!
[Re: HotRodRailroader]
#2287611
04/14/17 12:16 PM
04/14/17 12:16 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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since it is only the RF it would have to be downstream from the T in the line out to the front brakes. we'll assume the hose ain't collapsing with it being new so I would open up the drum & check things out & check wheel bearing torque. I would also check booster rod clearance for the excessive pedal travel along with shoes to drum clearances. EDIT long(er) shot, a shoe hanging up on the 6 backing plate contact pads, you want em fairly smooth with no deep grooves. I'd adj the pushrod (want ~.020")/adj the shoes, all of em/check wheel bearing torque & good visual inside the drum on the RF that is locking up.
Last edited by RapidRobert; 04/14/17 12:22 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: HELP DRUM BRAKES!!
[Re: HotRodRailroader]
#2287860
04/14/17 08:49 PM
04/14/17 08:49 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
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When you take off the drum, look at everything for any clues. Uneven contact, drum slightly out of round, any sign of where it's grabbing. There's some good brake tech from Chrysler in the MTSC pamphlets. The Imperial Club has almost all of them on line. go to www.imperialclub.org -> Literature -> Master Technicians Conference Scroll down to the 1960s and 70s for drum brakes closest to your year. 1969 is the first year for the new revised self-adjuster hardware and shoes.
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Re: HELP DRUM BRAKES!!
[Re: Twostick]
#2287891
04/14/17 10:03 PM
04/14/17 10:03 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11,269 Slantytown
DUFFMAN
Ask And Ye Shall Receive
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Ask And Ye Shall Receive
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11,269
Slantytown
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Also check for contamination on the shoes themselves. If they somehow got grease or oil on them they will grab.
I had this happen with my Coronet. I did a complete 4 wheel brake job one summer all the way down to new brake lines. The car drove great all summer but when I took it out of storage the next summer the car would dive to the right. I took the drums off and noticed the right front shoes were dis-colored. I replaced the shoes and haven't had a problem since. It's been 9 years now. I'm not sure what got on the shoes, maybe something on my hands when I installed them? Maybe they were contaminated when I bought them? But I never found any hydraulic leaks.
No longer taking $h!t from anyone!
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Re: HELP DRUM BRAKES!!
[Re: sthemi]
#2288176
04/15/17 12:52 PM
04/15/17 12:52 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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post what it ends up being.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: HELP DRUM BRAKES!!
[Re: HotRodRailroader]
#2288571
04/16/17 02:10 AM
04/16/17 02:10 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,827 Castlegar, BC, Canada
That AMC Guy
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,827
Castlegar, BC, Canada
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I chased brake problems for a solid year on my blue Hornet. When I went through the brakes the first time, everything was dry, so I figured I'd save a buck and not do wheel cylinders. Bad move. That bit me in the ass. A year later and a leaky cylinder was contaminating my right front causing exactly what you describe.
I also had a two-fold issue where the previous owner had put on a new master cylinder. Assuming they'd done it right, I never bothered to check but boy did the pedal feel light until right near the bottom and then it was brakes FULL ON.
Turned out, they didn't know enough to remove the brake rod retainer from the master cylinder. The car had power brakes, but either they got a manual brake master or all masters now come with that rod retainer. Regardless, you're supposed to remove that retainer if using on a power brake car.
Otherwise, if you don't, the rod in your power booster gets jammed into the back of the master and won't return to where it's supposed to.
So, it may not be a bad idea to double check that and while you have the master separated from the booster, if it's adjustable, be sure you don't have any pre-load on the master cylinder.
The master should be able to slip onto the booster without any force. If you have to push on it, or cinch it down with the bolts, the rod is too long.
Good luck!
Bloody Mary, Full of Vodka, Blessed art thou among cocktails....
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Re: HELP DRUM BRAKES!!
[Re: sthemi]
#2312496
05/28/17 05:59 PM
05/28/17 05:59 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,020 Pangaea
B5 Bee
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,020
Pangaea
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Long shoe in back and short one in front? Possible bad or crushed brake line or hoses. Also is the self adjuster installed the correct way?
AFAIK, a '69 RR with drums are not self adjusting. How old are the brake flex hoses? A hose can get a rupture in a way that will act like a check valve and not let the shoes retract fully. Jack up the bad wheel, pump the brakes till the brake locks up, crack the bleed screw to see if it releases. Wheel bearing was mentioned. Make sure the cotter pin is locking the castle nut adjustment. A right side unlocked castle nut will tighten bearing adjustment, a left side will loosen.
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Re: HELP DRUM BRAKES!!
[Re: HotRodRailroader]
#2312531
05/28/17 07:03 PM
05/28/17 07:03 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
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Atlast I am in the shop. Looks like the adjuster is flipped. Would this be my issue as it is getting tighter as I stop? Im looking in the original mopar service manual and it is opposite. Not quite sure what you mean by flipped. Carefully compare with the illustrations in your '69 Plymouth Shop manual noting which direction the foward arrow is. The new (in '69) up brake hardware uses self adjusters that look like the ones on this page. p7 1969 Drum Brake Service Highlights. The adjustment thread is reverse of the earlier hardware. See 1969 Servicing Highlights
Last edited by Mattax; 05/28/17 07:59 PM. Reason: extra / in linked url
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