Just got delivered a Walker 15284C kit for my uncle's 1973 Dodge Dart BBD Carburetor. BUT found the kit got missed the instructions sheet.

Does somebody where to find this instructions sheet on line? Haven't got success.

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/bbd-exploded.jpg

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/bbd-adjust.jpg

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/bbd-manual.jpg

Nacho,
Many Moparts members hope you are doing well during a difficult time in your country's history.

Hello Nacho, I have a sheet that covers BBD's from '76 to '84 & the float level on all of them is 1/4". with carb inverted with you holding the chrome u shaped bracket that pins the float pivot pin in place with one hand you measure from the crown of each float to the bowl rim. First have the needle/seat brass nut torqued reasonably tight to where you want it cuz as it is screwed in it lowers the float level. I'd bet my next to last dollar that your '73 would be 1/4" also. It ain't in the sheet but for best leverage you also want the tang/needle angle to be 90 deg or very close to it. this is all the internal adjustments that you need to get it assembled. Inside the top compartment where the horizontle rod goes thru for the accel pump assy, alot of times you can see the (2) indentation(s) where the mini square "pads" were located before & I would set them there. carb adjustments dont change just from a carb needing rebuilding which is why I measure all dimentions before I start the teardown cuz if there is a dimentional discrepency then it needs further checking. Not saying they couldn't be wrong when the carb was priorly worked on.

I found couple of diagrams as soon posted this thread, but like the ones you posted, didn't match with the carb of my Uncle's Dart ( which is the kit I got ). The one you posted seems to be to carb with "internal" gas pump. I have seen also with a regular gas pump visible from outside, but still diff.


This is the kit I got. Notice the diff gas pump shaft, being flat







We have lost life quality in last years being the last 4 or 5 the worst, but THE LAST YEAR, has being a headache, and since last 5 or 6 months we have being simply SURVIVING

Some friends from the 3rd gen Charger board decided to help me a bit. Here I describe all the situation and post some vid links, including a youtube channel who transmits the manifestations life, since TV channels are censored


http://wichargerguy.proboards.com/thread/20733/hey-nacho-rt74

Will check further in this tomorrow, my eyes are closing LOL... thanks as usual Robert!

run a small screwdriver around the inside of the pink AP pump leather to expand it out a bit & as you know pick the correct cluster gasket out of the (4). (I never toss ANY carb part till it is all finished. You might have to very slightly trim the cluster gasket so it lays flat (it is a mass produced piece). No overhang & no interference contacting the tubes.

Well, at the end found a nice carb kit instructions sheet what meets what I needed

http://carbkitsource.com/manuals/instruc...BBD%20small.pdf

However on diagram this piece is not shown ( and is included on kit )

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-Carburetor-Check-Ball-Retainer_p_2223.html

Is stated as a check valve retainer... I can understand the function and how should be mounted but... simply doesn't fit tight anywhere at accelerator pump cylinder. I simply dropped it there.

Carb is working quite nicelly ( although with rough iddle yet ) still with the check ball retainer simply dropped.

BTW, found pieces 24 and 15 ( from the instructions sheet I posted ) missed from the carb

24 & 15 would be two hard metal pieces that you would reuse from your carb. If your carb does not have them then they likely were not part of your particular BBD carb. Idle mix screws having no effect on the rough idle? EDIT I looked at my sheet for my 8146S BBD & the white sheet does not show those (2) metal pieces on top of the AP spring. MORE EDIT I'm pretty sure this carb is OE for my 85 Ramcharger. The sheet said 8146 Canada 1977-83 & that's what I went by but I did not change any settings from where they were exc to check float level. EVEN MORE EDIT I see "24" piece in your pic, but you did say the AP shank in the kit is different from the OE pump that was in your carb. & now that I think about it I remember a carb way back with the "15" flat round disc with the rectangular hole in it for the pump shank but I dont think it was a BBD, more likely (iirc) a carter 1bbl for a /6.

I never took pics of the carb fully assemblied, but this is the top cover. It seems this should take the type 1 and type 2 acc pum and both should use those pieces 15 and 24. This carb is the original from assembly plant per my uncle. Of course after 44 year ANYTHING could happen, specially down here where the "Mechs" remove or loose anything and then they don't care or say NAAAH, IT'S NOT NEEDED, WORKS THE SAME". The kit is Type 2 acc pump, but the one I removed is Type 1... which BTW didn't have the pump steem retainer ( 27 ) either, and the valve plate was a somekind of plastic piece instead the metallic one... sooo whatever what a previous mech found to cover it after loose the original piece.

At this moment, the spring is sat against the top cover instead the spring seat. Is working nicelly but would like to find both pieces 15 and 24. I think I can make the 15. Without that piece I adjusted the acc pump heigh by aprox what I see of the pump retainer ( 27 ) leaving the top cover.

pic of the actual top plate



yes, it changes but still a bit rough... MAYBE my bad... I dissasembled the carb and sank on thiner container to clean everything but made a mistake, never removed the mixture screws, soooo it can be still dirty on the iddle circuit. Will remove and clean with carb cleaner to check if gets better.

we are also changing spark plugs... for WHATEVER REASON a previous mech installed Champion N9YC spark plugs... toooo cold. I'm installing later NGKs BPR5EY ones ( not from Japan, but made in Brazil which has being told they are also good ), which are a RN11/2YC equivalent, but U groove.

The N9YC plugs told me the carb was sourcing a really rich mixture. We could smell it at the exhaust in fact.




there is around 4 diff kind of BBD carbs per the acc pump design ( then the diff equippments added due the emission controls and later carb upgrades). This one as you could see gets the flat shank which are the very earliers ones, used up to 72/73... from there began the changes on this specific area.

Need to post the carb service I did really worth the job! car really responds GREAT now, but just slightly rough at iddle yet

on the cleaning procedure we also found this ( I didn't know what was this valve for but I think never was opened before )

look at the tiny balls around!!!


hot iddle compensator valve area

I just cleaned all around and reinstalled like it was. The circle gasket looks bad, but didn't have replacement. Simply removed all those tiny balls and reinstalled everything back. I have no idea how it works this piece and the duct is sealed anyway from factory with a plum plug on venturi area.

Does anybody know where this balls could come from ?

chambler clean and duct view

sealed duct at venturi end


or maybe this "hot iddle compensator valve" is what is affecting the iddle to get it a bit rough ? but is sealed at ventury end, so I don't get it. Don't get how it works...

that hot idle compensator with the round black flapper cover, adds air. block it shut & see if the idle straightens out & as you said I would remove the idle mixture screws & blast out the idle mixture ports with some brake kleen.

it is already blocked at venturi access per what I have noticed ( its pictured ), so I guess its already dissabled? still wondering about those tiny balls... I guess it shouldn't be there, right ?

throttle shaft got some of play too. I guess its getting some air throught, but that should get a rough iddle anyway.

also noticed the carb bowl got allmost completelly emptied in couple of days. evaporation ?... when I was cleaning the carb, I filled the bowls with thinner checking for leaks ( cracked bowl ) and couldn't find any leak on bowls body at least.

I'm also wondering WHY if my TQ provides a ported vacuum tee for the dist, then the BBD provides an unported vacuum tee for the dist.

TQ as in Thermoquad? I was thinking they had no ported nipples, wrong? I was remembering an article from decades ago where they drilled/added a nipple to get ported.

Depends on which TQ, the later leanburn setups didn't use vacuum advance distributors.

that rings a bell

TQs got all front tees ported, and rear tees unported. Same as eddys, AFBs/AVSs, Rochester, etc....

Noted, thanks Nacho.