Its really pathetic what this site has become. Dyno heads and slide-rule chemists. Put the damn thing together and go out and run low 10's for garsh sake's. its not that hard. Why worry so much about a dog-gone number.

Thanks. I forgot that I tried Reed for a while as well.

i don't care about the hp. all i said is it seems that 500 hp would get me into the 10's. all i want to do is run 10.50's and if it works out to run 10.20's i'll be a happy camper.

what i don't want to do is buy a set of heads and a cam to only run 11.50's. i asked if the BPE heads and a 580-600 lift solid would get me in the ballpark with the parts i already have.

so what parts do you think i need to run mid 10's?

What you said initially was:



if a customer came to me with that target goal, and a motor combo was built and installed in the car and it went 10.60's or so, that would be a "D-" on the report card.

It's not at all hard to get a 2700lb car to run 10's with a stock stroke 360........ but if you build the motor and it only has enough power for a high 10.... you may find yourself a looooong way from a "low-10".

I haven't had a situation occur yet where the customer wanted XX.XX ET, and the car ended up going a little quicker than that........ and the customer was unhappy about it.

Even though some feel building a combo "by the numbers" is the wrong way to do it, I find it's easier to come up with a plan that will achieve the goals set at the beginning if you have a good idea of what it's going to take to get there........based on the numbers.

My Sons 3150 pound 70 Duster runs 10.50's with a well worn (.040) over 360, stock crank, flat top 11.2 compression pistons, H beam rods, 520 lift Racer Brown solid lift cam, set of Edelbrock heads I ported with a 2.05 valve, 340 Victor I ported, 750 alcohol carb, 727 with 5600 stall convertor, 4.30 gear, 10-28 slicks, 1 7/8 headmen headers, shifteded at 6400 rpm. Nothing magical and probably the worse set of heads in our inventory ( app 290 max cfm if I remember right). Don't ask me how much horsepower because I don't know or care. The track tells the tale. Just to add this is at Keystone not some East coast super track

It seems like that's what you want to build........so build it.

If it's built properly, the converter works correctly, fuel system, carb, etc, are all good....it should run 10's no problem.

Thanks Jim

Wallace in contrast says 484hp at 10.7 and 600 at 9.96....thats quite a big difference to your numbers... I disagree this site is not just number crunchers at all as mentioned. I understand the put it together and see what it runs thing as that is what I did back in the day and what most still do over here. However if you have a specific goal you want to reach as asked by the OP there is already enough info out there concerning matched engine parts to be able to figure it out if you search enough, calcs can help you more thats all, they are not the be all and end all of building a car just a reasonably accurate projection tool of what your car needs hp wise to achieve your goals with a given weight assuming you have a good chassis and its only a part of the whole thing.

I have talked with BPE about his heads. I will call Tim at bullet on Monday and see what he has to say about the cam choice.

Talk to Richard at bullet if tims not available can not wait to see a set of rods heads on a motor to see how they work they sure look nice

Call Racer Brown and order a STX-21--106 ls. I went 10.30s at 3100#, with that cam with less than 11 to 1 CR and ported factory smog heads, 587 castings. At your weight it would have been a bit quicker. The stock crankshaft broke after 1400+ passes. Block survived with an align hone and another .020 overbore, now 371 c.i. Updated the porting and put the same cam back in it. Scat 3.58 stroke steel crank and I-beam rods. Rotating weight quite a bit less with the scat rods vs the probe h-beams that were in it. Will have a rear sump oil pan also now as car has alterktion front suspension. Car still weighs north of 3050#. 10teens???? That engine is in the dungeon waiting for a reason to put it in the car. Engine in car now has close to 2200 passes and still running strong. I looked at the BPE heads and you won't go wrong with them. I think for stock stroke the smaller version would be the better choice, unless you are planning a 4" stroke build later down the road.

i don't plan on going 4'' stroke. plans are to run this stock stroke 360'' for years and years. i usually only get out 4 times a season.

i'll call around to cam companies and see what they all recommend and go from there.

I run 9.80's / 9.70's on a stock stroke 360, solid flat tappet cam, stage 2 eddy heads with 1.6 rockers, cam is from hughes, 292 duration, 642 lift on intake 652 on exh, 103 center, car weighs 2650 with me in it, , 13.6:1 compression, on e98, trying a new converter this year so hopefully the numbers will go down, so its not hard to do, I think the 360 with a flat tappet cam is very under rated,

what gear and converter do you have now?

4.44 gears, the new converter is a 8" 5500 stall, the old one was a 10" 4000 stall, 31x12.5x15W tire.

with 4.44 gears, what's your top end RPM? must be close or over 7000?

Shifting at 7000, crossing about 7300