Can you explain how you 'torqued' the bearings?

There's 2 ways to lock a brake up.
-Mechanical
-Hydraulic

Finding which 1 of the 2 ways is locking your brake is easy.
Like I posted above...jack it up, pump brakes till it locks, crack the bleeder screw. If fluid comes out and the brake releases, problem is in the hydraulic system.

Changing parts like the booster (which isn't your problem) is a waste of time and $$$, diagnose the problem first.

The wheel cylinder was leaking where i couldnt see it untill I pulled the shoes off. The shoes look darker than the other side. I feel this would caise an issue once it was heated up. Drum measures round still. The bearings were torqued the way I was always taught tighten untill snug but not over tight. Then back out jist a bit so it still spins with slight drag. There is definatly contamination. Getting another wheel cylinder in and getting it swapped out. Ill be putting new shoes on too. The booster needs to go anyways it has had its own seperate issue. I just feel if im taking all this apart i might as well do that too. Its a 4 bolt master. Do i need some sort of adapter plate all i can find is that they should be the same part. My thinking Is i do not need an adapter.

IIRC you will need a different pedal to master rod and may have to do some reworking of the rod to pedal mounting position to get the correct amount of force to work the manual brakes. Why not just get a vacuum canister to fix the low vacuum problem and keep the power brakes?

Ill look into this option or maybe a small pump ? I just want to drive my car and be able to stop. I hate all these gremlins hapoening at one time.

What Stump said, it'd sure minimize your down time

Lot of good previous advice I won't repeat but never assume that the new hoses or any other part is good.

I had a similar problem with a bad caliper locking up so I replaced the caliper and old hose. Problem came back and the caliper checked out OK so I assumed the proportioning valve since the hose was new.

WRONG

The new hose was bad and made the same symptoms of a caliper locking up.

Bleed the brakes while they work fine.

Work the brakes until they seem to lock up. Bleed the brakes again. If it seems different in any way replace the hose or look for a pressure problem. If there is no residual pressure in the line and they seem to bleed OK then look to the mechanical problems.

Hope it helps