I was starting to reinstall the interior in my Dart and although I never wanted to have a roll bar in the car I've been reconsidering before I put the interior in. What I would like to know is what you guys would recommend for a roll bar? I don't want anything elaborate as the car will be almost entirely street driven with only an occasional trip to the track. Also, I want to retain the full interior so the fewer the bars the better. I'm thinking something on the order of a 4 or 6 point to provide some degree of safety for now that maybe if I ever want more (which I really don't think I will) I could have additional bars added on. The car will have a 470 or 512 stroker in it so I'm not sure how fast it will be but track requirements on the style of cage are also a consideration. If I went with a six point, what is the 1/4 mile time that a six point would be good for? Lastly, where would be a good place to purchase a roll bar from?

This is a few pics of what I did with mine.

one more

trunk area

head room

Door bars

I used a S&W 6 point kit in my Dart and bought the pro street rear bars to go with it. It looks pretty much like lawndarts with the exception that my door bars are straight.. It's a nice kit, everything is cut long so it can be made to fit up nice and tight.

BTW no one rides in the back seat in my car. IMO back there the roll bar would be more dangerous than the crash.

This is what I did years ago then had Rob Lindsey at R&J fabrication weld it in.............

I have a CE kit for the '72 Cuda in my shop and I like your side bars better than the swing out bars that we got in the kit. The Cuda is going to run a little this year and when we get tossed out for running under 11.49 we will install the kit.

If you want to retain the full interior AND have a legal bar or cage that you can live with in a driver, have someone who knows what they are doing bend it up and install it. IF the car will not run quicker than 11.50, you may get away with a less than legal bar which will provide some degree of safety beyond having having nothing. Any kit you buy will be a basic deal made to pass tech, be cheap, be easy to install and nothing more. Yes, it will cost a little more than having someone slap a kit together. Don't forget the frame ties.

Also consider if you wish to keep the arm rest.When the door bar is in the right spot you will most likley have to loose the armrest.
Greg just did his Duster.

The reason we kicked the door bar down is to clear the arm rest. I wanted to keep the interior as close to stock as possible.

Those door bars look great in the Dart!
RT

You have to be careful not to go to low on the door bars also as the rule says it needs to pass in between your shoulder and elbow when sitting in the drivers seat. If its to low it may not be legal. But many tracks dont check them that close. Mine is legal as its an S & W 6 point kit. But I cant go much lower or it would not be legal. I have raced in some NSS races and none of the tech guys look hard at my car as they have never questioned me about the bar. Ron

I welded my 6 point bar in myself as I put the rear bars over the frame where it starts to run up along the wheelwell. I had planned to put the rear seat back in as these are right where the rear seat back and cushion meet. But after welding it in I found out the rear seat wont fit in between the bars to go back in. Well I am 60 and most of my friends are in that age area and I dont think any of us want to be climbing in the back so I left the rear seat out. I like the S & W kit I got for my 63. In my sons Dart we got a Comp Engineering kit which we welded in ourself. It is also nice kit but I think I liked the S & W bit a bit better as I did not have to fish mouth the bars as much since they had already done most of the fish mouthing. Ron

This is my sons 6 point Comp Engineering bar in his Dart. Good luck with your car. Ron

I used a rhodes race car 8 point kit in my belvedere with the seat saver rear bars. Pretty happy with the fit. I'm tall and wanted to keep the door bars low, so I'm mounting my seat low. Other than the seat aver bars, you can't see the roll bar from the exterior since it's a post car.

That's what I'm doing with my street car, I'm having Chassisfab Performance in Tallmadge Ohio do a custom 6-point bar for me, the door bars will be bent like a pro-touring car to conform to the seat and still be able to keep the arm rest. I'm only planning on running 10.90's at best and will only race a couple times a year. And I know the door bars will have to start up high between me shoulder and elbow.

I really like that door bar 69lawndart posted, with the added gusset type bar in his photo.

I was able to keep the rear seat AND the door armrests. Is it 100% to the letter of the rulebook? Probably not. Will it get me booted from the track. I really doubt it.

Here is another: