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Re: Magnum blocks, grade of the cast iron?
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2275212
03/24/17 02:56 AM
03/24/17 02:56 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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You really don't care about harness at all if you want to get 'engineer' about it.
Material that fractures shortly after its yield point has a very small plastic region. This type of material, we often think of as being hard or brittle when we use common terms. Like ceramic or glass. Material that you can continue to stress beyond its yield point before it fractures has a large plastic region, and we often think of these materials as soft or malleable.
But the bottom line is both materials were stressed beyond their yield point and have received some sort of permanent damage that will never go away. Either a crack, or the material has deformed. Both are bad for an engine.
True but you want it strong/stiff enough so it doesnt distort and stay/yield.. it has to have enough nickel for strength Like everything.. there is a balance to all this stuff.. even for making iron EDIT Look back 70 years.. a iron block was LUCKY to last 70K.. now days they go 250K on miles and still dont have a ridge  Yes, and while I'm sure the metallurgy has improved, I'm sure a lot of the gains in block wear can also be attributed to thinner rings, and EFI to more precisely control fuel delivery so the rings never get washed with fuel
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Magnum blocks, grade of the cast iron?
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#2275329
03/24/17 12:11 PM
03/24/17 12:11 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
Crizila
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,506
Az
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You really don't care about harness at all if you want to get 'engineer' about it.
Material that fractures shortly after its yield point has a very small plastic region. This type of material, we often think of as being hard or brittle when we use common terms. Like ceramic or glass. Material that you can continue to stress beyond its yield point before it fractures has a large plastic region, and we often think of these materials as soft or malleable.
But the bottom line is both materials were stressed beyond their yield point and have received some sort of permanent damage that will never go away. Either a crack, or the material has deformed. Both are bad for an engine.
True but you want it strong/stiff enough so it doesnt distort and stay/yield.. it has to have enough nickel for strength Like everything.. there is a balance to all this stuff.. even for making iron EDIT Look back 70 years.. a iron block was LUCKY to last 70K.. now days they go 250K on miles and still dont have a ridge Yes, and while I'm sure the metallurgy has improved, I'm sure a lot of the gains in block wear can also be attributed to thinner rings, and EFI to more precisely control fuel delivery so the rings never get washed with fuel For sure on the above, along with some major lube improvements. I also believe a lot has to do with the quality of the castings - mainly core shift. I have been running a 1979 E58 block for some time now - pushing around 650 HP through it. All the walls sonic tested over .2 on this block. So far, so good. I would guess that the block casting procedure's / tolerance's have improved over the years also.
Fastest 300
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Re: Magnum blocks, grade of the cast iron?
[Re: gregsdart]
#2275461
03/24/17 04:56 PM
03/24/17 04:56 PM
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,183
Porter67
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,183
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So what would one need to do really, cut an ear off each type block and send it in and have it checked by the pros and if so what results would we be looking at?
Does it even matter knowing what we already know?
I cant find it but I know Dave had sonic test info iirc.
Right now there is a pre mag 360 roller block builder, running, complete for $150 near me and I might just go snag it.
The memory goes with age clearly, because I forgot I had taken a 360 mag block and made room for the common comp la style roller lifters with the link bar.
I did have to cut into the tops of the lifter boss on a few so the lifter would stay on the camshaft. (linkbar hit)
I dont recall if I used a cutter or sand rolls, but id think id almost of had to of used a carbide cutter the maybe sand rolled it.
But I do recall it didnt take more then a day of putzing around to get it done.
Last edited by EV2Bird; 03/24/17 04:58 PM.
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Re: Magnum blocks, grade of the cast iron?
[Re: Porter67]
#2275737
03/25/17 01:24 AM
03/25/17 01:24 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,882
Pittsburgh,PA
RTSrunner
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,882
Pittsburgh,PA
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So what would one need to do really, cut an ear off each type block and send it in and have it checked by the pros and if so what results would we be looking at?
Does it even matter knowing what we already know?
I cant find it but I know Dave had sonic test info iirc.
Right now there is a pre mag 360 roller block builder, running, complete for $150 near me and I might just go snag it.
The memory goes with age clearly, because I forgot I had taken a 360 mag block and made room for the common comp la style roller lifters with the link bar.
I did have to cut into the tops of the lifter boss on a few so the lifter would stay on the camshaft. (linkbar hit)
I dont recall if I used a cutter or sand rolls, but id think id almost of had to of used a carbide cutter the maybe sand rolled it.
But I do recall it didnt take more then a day of putzing around to get it done. Why did you grind the block for LA lifters?Solids maybe? The Magnum lifters are inexpensive and you have the bolt bosses for the spider guide plate with your block so no need for any tie bars.Just curious as to why all the seemingly extra work done to your block.~RT
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Re: Magnum blocks, grade of the cast iron?
[Re: gregsdart]
#2275805
03/25/17 05:28 AM
03/25/17 05:28 AM
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,183
Porter67
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,183
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Why did you grind the block for LA lifters?Solids maybe? The Magnum lifters are inexpensive and you have the bolt bosses for the spider guide plate with your block so no need for any tie bars.Just curious as to why all the seemingly extra work done to your block.~RT
I had run mopar solid flat tappet lifters in that block maybe 15 years ago, its a pre mag roller and used 5/16 pushrods and with X heads outwardly looking in things were at odd angles but all worked properly.
As for the rollers, the block was clearanced for solid mech lifters,I forget the part number but they were the most common comp rollers that didnt need to be bushed and were more or less drop in but the link bar on some would hold the roller tip off the cam. 828-16 iirc.
Back then there were no cheap lifters, even the oem units I dont think were that cheap and a hydro roller cam at the time, say a good crane with the fuel pump eccentric was nearly $400 so I went and ran a comp mech roller, Id have to look at that cam card but it was one of comps smaller "street" mech roller cams.
Last edited by EV2Bird; 03/25/17 07:31 AM.
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