Also, They do not fit very well in an A-body. You can see how I had to mount it with the motor inside the door and the track on a pretty bad bind. Still doesn't work when I straighten the track out like I said earlier.

The only way to mount it straight would be to put it right where that big brace is inside the door, so that won't work.

Now you probably know why the price has come way down from what they used to be.
They used to work, and now they don't, but they will sell the kits to you for cheap!
The electric window motors draw a lot of current, are your wires big enough? The wires to my window motors were at least 14 gauge, and may have been 12 gauge.

Its tough to beat the OEM stuff. The last one I used the power assembly from a 5th Ave, and swapped it into the location of the original unit.

Most of the modern stuff uses a centered beam that attaches to the top and the bottom of the inner door frame. A plastic track slides on the beam. The motor pushes the track up, or pulls the track down. The window channel attaches to the track. Gene

Yes I tried big wires, tried with and w/o a relay. I even attached the electric motor directly to a fully charged car battery to eliminate all the wiring and the motor still seemed very weak.

I see that places like Gary Ball sell the same type of kit for triple the price. I wonder if they are better.
But I still didn't like how they fit in my door on a bind.

I was doing some thinking and the ones I did were much more expensive. And the ones I used had the two drive cables separate and not linked together like yours. I see Spal sells a kit that sure looks like the one I used, and it does not include switches, which I specifically remember the ones I bought did not include switches. Of course they were triple the price of what you paid, which I do remember them not being cheap.

Or you can take a C body power window assembly and swap arms from your A or B body onto the C body. I drilled mine and only added 1 lbs per front assembly.

Plus I used the C body harness.