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Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: RangerDan440] #225244
02/17/09 12:02 PM
02/17/09 12:02 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,318
Southern Maryland
klunick Offline
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Southern Maryland
Dan, just got done having my barracuda blasted. As others have said, media blast, do not use sand. Sand will create too much heat and warp your panels. The shop I used used Aluminum oxide, although I use glass bead for the smaller stuff. Strip the car completely of everything. That means doors, hood, hinges, suspension, etc. I used OSPHO on the car after blasting and it seems to work. 4 guys can pick up my A-body and carry it with everything stripped off it. I didn't believe it until we did it. Call John at US Car Tool and buy a roto. It will make yours and the blasters life much easier. I paid about $1100 to get the car blasted.


67 Barracuda FB 69 Superbee "Southern Maryland: If you want a good looking woman, you had better bring her with you"
Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: RangerDan440] #225245
02/17/09 12:37 PM
02/17/09 12:37 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,141
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
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And believe the folks when they say sand gets everywhere. I pulled 30lbs of black beauty from a parts car I cut up. When I blasted the trunk in my 69 I made up some tools for my shop vac and air gun. I picked up a length of 1/2" flexible copper and used a rubber stopper to stick it into the vacuum hose. It allwed me to get down into crevises to get the sand out. A long extension of 1/4" copper on the air gun allowed me to use pressurized air to dislodge some of the sand. Its also nice on a rotiserrie as you can flip the car around several times to get material out of areas. I spend a whole evening removing sand out of my 69 RR shell. And I just blasted the trunk floor!


68 Road Runner (383/4speed, post car w/decor pkg) - Major Project
69 Road Runner w/472 Hemi & 4 speed.
70 Challenger R/T SE EF8 w/ V9J, U - A32 - Major Project
2023 Ford Mach 1
Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: RoadRunner] #225246
02/17/09 01:00 PM
02/17/09 01:00 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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Quote:

And believe the folks when they say sand gets everywhere. I pulled 30lbs of black beauty from a parts car I cut up. When I blasted the trunk in my 69 I made up some tools for my shop vac and air gun. I picked up a length of 1/2" flexible copper and used a rubber stopper to stick it into the vacuum hose. It allwed me to get down into crevises to get the sand out. A long extension of 1/4" copper on the air gun allowed me to use pressurized air to dislodge some of the sand. Its also nice on a rotiserrie as you can flip the car around several times to get material out of areas. I spend a whole evening removing sand out of my 69 RR shell. And I just blasted the trunk floor!




with everything you said.
I'd like to add this.

I like to use my big compressor that I use to blast with and use it to blow out the car. Mine is 100CFM and will remove the sand pretty easy without alot of trouble. There again having the car on a rottisserie is almost a must and definety helps get the old media out. Using a compressor with enough air is paramount and alows you to use way less media and makes the cleanup easier. I've been blasting since the early eighties and have blasted many tons.


Maybe ask your blaster to blow out your car when he's done, whatever he charges should be worth it because a little wimppy 5 HP 2 stage shop comprssor will wear you out using it to blow out sand.

Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: Neil] #225247
02/17/09 01:03 PM
02/17/09 01:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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Quote:

I should also add that if the car has undercoating on it you'll want to remove it first. I don't think it comes off very well during the blasting process.





Very true.

Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: RangerDan440] #225248
02/17/09 01:09 PM
02/17/09 01:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

What about ultra-high pressure washing (just water)?

Hans




Hans, believe me thats not an option on this car It needs the big guns, but its complete and worth saving (RT/SE Track Pack car with lots of options)

thanks JD, thats good info Im too lazy (and welder-less) to fab my own caster frame and thats one of the reasons Ive been trying to avoid that route but it sounds like I need to bribe a very good welding friend of mine. Think I need to take the whole car to bare metal?




It sounds like Hans has read some of my posts.
A steam pressure washer will do wonders before media blasting on any car.

Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: Challenger 1] #225249
02/17/09 11:15 PM
02/17/09 11:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,861
Gloucester,VA STOP MOVING HERE
RangerDan440 Offline OP
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great advice guys, thank you very much

I spoke to my body guy at length today about several issues we brought up here...he also recommends media blasting since whatever is not solid (or what Im pretty sure is solid anyway, and there is no undercoating btw) is being replaced (which will amount to quarters, floors, and taillight panel and valance) He also said he can leave most of the suspension parts on but it will cost more in labor to get up in the crevices; he said I could bring it to him as a roller, he'll pull all the suspension parts, blast them, and then reinstall to get it home so I think I might do that. He said $1000 for everything (not including the extra for pulling the suspension) He also recommends seem sealing the floors in over welding, which Im seriously considering.


68 Valiant 408
69 Charger 318
69 Cougar 351W
70 Torino GT 351C
71 Country Squire 351W
71 Road Runner 440+6
71 Satellite sedan 318
73 Duster 318
73 Challenger 383
77 Grand Prix 455
83 Malibu 9C1 383
84 Delta 88 403
87 Grand National
96 Ram 360
09 Crown Vic
10 Challenger R/T M6
15 Challenger Hellcat M6
Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: RangerDan440] #225250
02/18/09 11:55 AM
02/18/09 11:55 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,318
Southern Maryland
klunick Offline
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Dan, that last comment, do you mean bonding the floors using the epoxy? My bodyman swears by this stuff and says they use it on all the new cars. I don't really know anything about it, but my response to him was, "Well, that may work on my wifes car that we might keep for 10 years, but how do you know this stuff is going to last 25+ years." For all I know it may well last at least that long, but I know for a fact that welding will. Just a thought.


67 Barracuda FB 69 Superbee "Southern Maryland: If you want a good looking woman, you had better bring her with you"
Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: Stanton] #225251
02/18/09 02:04 PM
02/18/09 02:04 PM
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Posts: 28,633
Shopping @ HoBo Fright
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Quote:

Strip the car completely - including all suspension parts. To keep it rolling, spend the few extra bucks and make up a set of stands with casters on the bottoms that bolt to the rear spring front mounts and the front bumper bracket holes. This will leave you with only minimal areas that won't be blasted. You can also make these long enough (about 18") to bring the car up to a decent working height.


I took everything off and duct taped card board over all the holes o the floor from the inside and the frame. It might not sound strong but 3-4 layers of good tape over the small card board worked fine to keep sand out and i just wire wheels the small spots thay were missed.
I left the rear end in just to keep it a roller. I was swaping it anyway.And made a dolliy for the front.
The guy used his lift truck to put it on some nice metal stand like saw horses.


[img]https://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/sig%20pics/2840886-340SIX-1.jpg[/img]
VP of the MPM in New Orleans
73 Dart Sport 340/ 70 challenger vert. That may still get built, If I live long enough
Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: 340SIX] #225252
02/18/09 04:45 PM
02/18/09 04:45 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,893
MI, usa
dvw Offline
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MI, usa
I've done a couple at home myself. I would remove any bolt on components. I would remove all seam sealer as there is probably rust behind it. My bet is the inner areas of the trunk,quaurters and various body seams are rusted. I spread the seam with a screwdiver,blast,epoxy prime,then tap them back together. If the seams "fat" its rusty. I have also dipped components. It does not clean out the seams either, if the seams are fat, spread and clean them. Areas that can not be acesssed can be cut thru with a hard wheel,spread apart, blasted ,primed with weld thru primer and rewelded. Such as the outer lower door skin. Ideally you would like to remove the rusted components being replaced before blasting. How ever with a lot of structure missing the body could move during transport. good luck. Its a lot of work,but a lot of fun.
Doug

Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: klunick] #225253
02/18/09 10:23 PM
02/18/09 10:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,861
Gloucester,VA STOP MOVING HERE
RangerDan440 Offline OP
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Posts: 12,861
Gloucester,VA STOP MOVING HERE
theres a lot of body guys using epoxy-based compounds to "glue" replacement panels in and it seems stronger to me than a weld bead. I would do it on floor boards and the trunk, I dont know about quaters and outside panels. Think about it, no spot welds, less susceptible to rust since its a cleaner, tighter seal so moisture is less likely to settle in in the seams. I think Im gonna try it.


68 Valiant 408
69 Charger 318
69 Cougar 351W
70 Torino GT 351C
71 Country Squire 351W
71 Road Runner 440+6
71 Satellite sedan 318
73 Duster 318
73 Challenger 383
77 Grand Prix 455
83 Malibu 9C1 383
84 Delta 88 403
87 Grand National
96 Ram 360
09 Crown Vic
10 Challenger R/T M6
15 Challenger Hellcat M6
Re: Prepping A Car For Blasting [Re: RangerDan440] #225254
02/19/09 06:07 PM
02/19/09 06:07 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,893
MI, usa
dvw Offline
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MI, usa
I glued my door skin on my Road Runner in 86. still holding up fine. We're all to chicken to try it on a 1/4 panel though. A neighbor down the street (Chevy Guy) swears by it. He glues all his rust repair panels. I agree with the sealing aspect. We just don't know if you will be able to "read" the seam later in a nice flat panel. I see no problem gluing where it won't show.
Doug

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