Still selling brackets for this? LA with procharger minus the procharger? PM me if you are and some prices please!! 😎

Cool build OP!

Thanks mshred!


So engine finally in, blower setup completely finished with tensioner pulley/pulley bracket installed. Everything looks great, only concern is there is only an inch or so clearance between the tensioner and the 3" pipe from the blower to the intercooler. I'm hoping the motor won't torque that much on the schumacher poly locks, but if it does it is nothing a torque strap can't fix.

TTI headers...they look AWESOME, the tubes fit great but I am pretty pissed at the flanges. After 6 hours of myself and 540challenger fumbling with them we finally realized the reason why we could never get the final bolt in on either side at the same time was because the holes in the flange were drilled wrong. When I say wrong, I mean we had to cut the flange and pry the most forward primary tube out maybe 5/16ths of an inch to be able to bolt them up. Wasn't happy about cutting the flange on a set of headers that I paid extra for to have ceramic coated and polished up, but at that point there was no way I was pulling the engine and trans out to remove/return the header and I would have had to oval every hole out to shift it enough (If I tried just slotting the bolt whole of the tube in question it would have had to have been slotted so much I'd be into the primary tube).

Working on the plumbing now and even that's not easy. Couldn't find any place that I liked for routing the hose, so I drilled a hole through the rear subframe just forward of the leaf spring mounting point and reinforced it with a piece of DOM tubing so it is stronger than it was before. I'm going to run the feed and return down the inside of the passenger over the axle subframe, through the reinforced hole forward of the leaf spring mount and out to the factory channel next to the passenger side pinch molding, this way I avoid the whole leaf spring/wheel well area.


As for cooling, I was getting tired of nothing fitting without fabrication work and very cheap so I was thinking of just trying to squeeze a flex fan in there and see what happens. Since It'll run on E85, I wouldn't think the car would run too hot. I will probably be firing it up first time in the summer though, and I would hate to find out as soon as I get it running that I have to start working on it again because it overheats at car shows. I am going to measure and see if I could fit a Ford Taurus electric fan.... What do you guys think about the flex fan though? Think it will keep an E85 powered boosted ride cool when cruising?

Forgot to update this thread. Here are some pics of the progress along the way:

welded up some intercooler mounts
IMG_1329 by Kris A, on Flickr
IMG_1294 by Kris A, on Flickr
mounted trans cooler to intercooler crossmember (it's not as blocked by the front facia as it looks, it actually comes up at an angle away from it so most of the airflow at the front end should be directed right into it).
FullSizeRender-12 by Kris A, on Flickr

notched the pass side inner fender for the blower
IMG_1250 by Kris A, on Flickr
Plumbing mockup. Decided to go with an extreme velocity carb hat over the low profile procharger one. From what I heard, the low profile hat would be a major restriction. This makes the hood situation a little more difficult, but worth it I think.
IMG_1674 by Kris A, on Flickr

Fuel cell mount (sank it into trunk floor, ended up using a magna fuel pro tuner 750 pump instead of the automotive though)

IMG_1732 by Kris A, on Flickr

d side front floor pan
IMG_2691 by Kris A, on Flickr


built an exhaust for about 100 bucks by sectioning some straight pipe, making pie cuts and using two $30 summit 2 chamber mufflers. We'll see how long the muffs last LOL Leak tested both pipes with 02 bungs at 20PSI, held steady, good to go.
IMG_2699 by Kris A, on Flickr
IMG_2697 by Kris A, on Flickr


Mondo bypass valve. It's an old, used one but seemed to work when I pressure tested it. I hand polished it after and it came out great. Only thing that was annoying was I could only find the flange in mild steel but all my piping is stainless, welding the dissimilar metals was fine but just annoying that I had to paint the flange after installing so it doesn't rust. eventually I may cut my own out of stainless or more likely re-do all the piping out of aluminum.
IMG_1738 by Kris A, on Flickr

IMG_2616 by Kris A, on Flickr
Plumbing welded

19554189_10100922148349952_2599966835891577155_n by Kris A, on Flickr

Onto the wiring/FiTECH. Had a lot of help from my friend 540challenger and his wiring expertise on this. We did the best we could rewiring a lot the car (the harness was pretty hacked up by many previous owners installing accessories). Probably should have gotten a new harness, but since mostly everything important is new wiring now anyway it works....for now. We are going to neaten it up at some point but for now I just have the fan relays, circuit breaker, MSD, starter solenoid etc.. all on the d side fender for easy access.


First fire up went surprisingly well. The FITECH fired the car up almost right away. It idled on its own just fine, mind you this was on E85 athat even my brand new flex fuel truck has a tough time starting on.

Issue #1 came when we started getting unexpected shut downs of the engine. It would just cut out of nowhere, no stumble, no hiccup, just flat stall. I noticed the dreaded 590000 RPM on the fitch handheld and narrowed it down to EMI noise. I routed the VR distributor pickup wires away from the coil and wrapped them in DEI titanium heat sleeve which apparently according to DEI is a great EMI blocker. After that, I haven't had one shut down.

I am battling a few issues though. First, when the car has been driving for a bit I am getting some bad breaking up at low RPM's. It's strange because it only does it when the car is HOT. I mean you can reach operating temp and it'll be fine, but only when it has been at operating temp for a while does the problem occur. It could be fueling related, and I'm nowhere close to having anything dialed in tune wise (the FITECH was great starting/idling on its own but still having a lot of drivability issues which I expected from the big cam, E85 and boost).

Second problem, a little more concerning, is on the first fire up we noticed coolant trickling out the back of the head by the #7 cylinder. It looked like it may have been coming from the header bolt which we didn't seal originally so we put some ARP thread sealant on and the problem seemed to subside. I did notice though, after longer drivers after the motor is off and the motor begins to heat soak I am getting a steady hiss from back there of steam leaking. My builder used cometic gaskets so I'm wondering if they might just need a re-torque, or it possibly could still be coming from around the threads of the header bolt. I'm just praying it's not a cracked head because I know these W2's are prone to that. IMG_2931 by Kris A, on Flickr

here's a video of the first run after we dialed the timing in and fixed the FItech issues. I'm sorry the quality is so badIMG_2920 by Kris A, on Flickr

And before anyone says anything about the mirrors, I know, they are awful. I have a set of proper mirrors for it and I'll be putting them on soon. I've let the car slide with those ugly pep boys specials for too long, but now that i've actually got a nice power plant in it I am going to have to make this car look right.

I like this build! I always cut my header flanges between sets of ports, makes it easier to seal but it sucks that your bolt holes were off that far. I've learned that test fitting headers and torque converters etc before putting them in the car can save some headaches.

How tall are your rear tires? I'm thinking with a boosted engine you're not gonna need those 3.91's. Maybe a 3.55 or even 3.23.

also, after cutting the flanges, make sure one bolt hole per flange is oversize to help with expansion and contraction of the pipes. this greatly helps with leaks at the head to flange connection, regardless of the flange thickness. this REALLY helps with thin flange headers. [ i "stole" these mods from mr. P body years ago, and they work GREAT !]

So was that a kit? Did you buy the parts separately and assemble them to fit.
Looks really, REALLY good.
Just curious about what a set up like that would run?

Prosport, 28" tall tire right now and I'm wondering if I did go a little steep on the gear. Really not sure what kind of trap speeds I'm going to run, I want to dial my pulley size in to make around 625-650HP but I don't think I want to push it any further than that for the blocks sake. I also want to try to keep the RPM fairly low (under 6500). I think the gears should get me maybe 130mph but before I really get serious into racing it I'll probably be looking for a B body dana 60 so I can relocate the springs and run either a taller tire or less gear.

Moparx, that sounds like a good idea. I may try to do that if I have sealing issues (if I even can without pulling the engine to get the headers out). Normally i'm not too scared of a tiny header leak but with the fuel injection I can't have it screwing with the 02 sensor.


SCATPACK1, no kit. I cut the brackets out and welded the piping up myself. I actually bought what was supposed to be a complete SD concepts bracket from a member here but I was not happy with how it worked (it was just one piece of aluminum plate bolted to another small piece that fastened to the water pump and then used a little piece of .5" tube as a gusset from the back of the plate to the head).
I reused the plate that mounted to the water pump (that little stubby stepped plate between the two larger brackets) and used that main bracket loosely as a template to cut my own out. I then cut out a support bracket out and made a tensioner bracket using a DAYCO heavy duty tensioner. After that it was just a matter of measuring for spacers and hardware. I've seen this DAYCO tensioner fix a lot of procharger problems on the GM F body boards and a lot of guys were using them on 8 rib setups to produce large boost numbers without slip. They seem to have more usable travel than the procharger tensioner pulleys have which have always been garbage in my experience. The biggest key I have found with procharger setups is to reduce flex in the bracket at all costs to reduce belt slip, that's what I went so crazy with it. I also drilled a few different holes for the tensioner's pin so that I can adjust it for different pulley sizes/belt lengths. Right now it looks like I was only getting about 5PSI so I'm going to have to play with that.


the trickier part was relocating the 1 wire alternator to the driver's side over the PS pump, and I'm not happy with the quick/sloppy bracket i made. The alt was too thick to bolt directly to the head without hitting the valve cover so I had to completely float the alternator off the motor. there's more flex than I'd like but so far it seems to be working OK. At some point I am definitely welding up something different, probably out of thick aluminum plate instead of the mild steel.