Looks great man and I too have been told by a few sharp dudes that a round and gentle radius is better that razor sharp like I keep seeing WILSON Manifolds do and makes no sense. Look at an airplane wing.................

Just a hint,

On a well jetted motor, With the single plane Street Dominator the #1 and # 7 cylinders will tend to run a little lean (even compared to many other single planes I've worked with)...I believe because (#1 it's a relatively small plenum) and (#2) the cylinders are firing directly after the #2 and #5 (respectively) holes, so the hole firing immediately before them tends to rob a little charge from them. I think the old Mopar "popsicle sticks' tried to correct it some but with a flat floor what I've done (and I think tends to help power) is I make the #1 and #7 a slightly larger and trapezoidal (I call it 'Gumby's head') at the top of the runner so they are maybe 1/4 to 3/8" taller than the adjacent runner that want to steal from it. I do quite a lot of radius work from each runner into the plenum roof as well on all the runners. The walls between I put a gentle radius on but they stay comparatively "fat".

But your mileage/MPH may vary, lol

Any thoughts on substituting JB Weld or some other type of epoxy for filling in that TQ - intended waist in the back of the mounting flange of the SD? Wondering if it would hold up in that spot, and be easier to modify/grind. IIRC guys were using JB Weld to fix a known port alignment defect in a lot of Weiand 4500 intakes meant for the RB motor, where the intake port met the head - some core shift issues.

[quote=MadMopars]

I'm leaning towards thinning the dividers down a bit but will probably try to keep them more rounded than knife edged. I was told knife edging was actually worse for flow although I personally haven't tested that theory.


Yes, its been proven a rounded edge is better then a knife edge.

Also, there are bits for aluminum and they do have wider spacing between the cutting edges. I too know well about the bits clogging up. Theres a correct term for the aluminum bits, but that eludes me at this moment. Nice work though.

Aluminum burrs iirc and mine never clog even dry........

Non-ferrous is probably the term you were looking for.

Grinder's grease or a good porting lubricant can help with keeping even regular burrs from clogging up with aluminum.

Eastwood's grinder's grease, which is kind of like wax stick, fills in the grooves on the bits so they don't get jammed up with aluminum as easily. Grind a little while, clean the burr with a wire brush, re-treat and grind some more.

That's it porky, thanks.

The sd intake seems to be made of some really cheesy aluminum. It's really porus and clogged my aluminum bits like no other aluminum I've used them on.

That's what I'm thinking too.

42+ years of machining various aluminum castings, and i always hated the "gummy" stuff. you could instantly tell a bad batch of castings as soon as the tool hit the material. this is using cnc machines as well as bridgports, lathes, drill presses and any hand tool work required.