Quote:

---

Ok, so i have the get alllll the white circles out? Even though they arent bumpy? I had some bumpy circles but those were bubbles that dried up and i got rid of them.

I'm wetsanding with fingers and well now i see it isnt working very well. The bLock is really small and takes forever!! LOL. I guess i'm gonna have to suck it up and scrub hahaha.

PS: Exit1965 Good to see you back in the game This stuff isnt that bad lol, i'm in such a big mess but i'm gonna keep going. GL To u too

---

well, do you HAVE to get all the "white circles" out? You don't HAVE to do anything (I tell that to my wife all the time - she still doesn't get it ) But... if you want a super smooth paint job, you're gonna need to get rid of them. Looking at the photo you took of the door, you can see exactly what they are; high spots (bumps) in the paint. They only look white because the sandpaper scuffed them, and they're high enough that the sandpaper didn't get down into the "valleys" between them (which is why the valleys still look glossy). This is where sanding with a block is important, using a block will give you a flat surface when sanding so you'll KNOW/SEE the high spots and low spots. Make sense?

Be careful - you really dont want to "scrub", as in applying alot of pressure, you risk "scrubbing" off all the paint, or worse - sanding it unevenly. When you're wetsanding, keep that surface moist. I use a spray bottle, and when I feel like the sanding block is starting to "grab", give it another spritz of water. Smooth and steady. One way to tell that you've sanded enough, like 69 says, the entire surface will look smooth - like velvet. Now, if you REALLY want it smooth, you do like GTS suggests; when you think you're done, spray the area with a primer of contrast (dark primer on white paint/light primer on dark paint) then block sand it ALL OFF! If you did it right, you wont see any of the primer left. If you didn't, you'll see spots of the primer left in the "low" spots (scratches/dents/etc). That's hardcore!

Quote:

---

maybe I am getting things confused but for waxing the car, I use lots of water with the diamond cut stuff?

---

Quote:

---

M2001,

I should have mentioned that. I wet sand in straight lines. I do change the direction but always in a straight line.
--------||||||||||---------|||||||||

-Dave

---

Quote:

---

Dave - can you offer up a reason why sanding in a straight line is better than swirling?
Anyone else care to comment?

---

Quote:

---

Heres what the wife and I did this morning, 40 degrees outside, right in the parking lot.
$500 daily beater before...




$30 and 3 hours later...




I did zero prep work, no sanding, no priming, I didn't even tape anything off. Satin Black,looks great for me..

---

Quote:

---

69Charger, Ive been following this thread from the beginning and I was just wondering.If I decide to spray a panel as a test,should I still use mineral spirits and water it down as I would rollering? I,ve scrolled through a bunch of these pages and havent been able to find where anyone has asked about this.I,m going to try rollering a trunk lid in the next week or so but I want to spray one side just to compare the two! Thanks and great thread!

---

if your spraying the paint, thin it down with mineral spirits, guess at the mix would be 30%, like a reducer. i have sprayed the tremclad/rustoleum, and it sprays awesome, flows very nice, and alot eaiser than single stage paint, does'nt smell as bad either. if you can spray, i'm sure you'll be really really happy with it, like i said it flows like no other paint i've sprayed before, just make sure it's thinned out nice, if your gun starts clogging, your too thick, works espically nice with a HVLP setup. just a tip if you do spray, thin only to get good performance from your gun, then, when painting, it's not like single stage or BC/CC, you'll want to lay each coat just enough to be wet, but not thick, unlike where you spray single stage with 1 mist coat, then 2 medium, then 1 mist coat again if your doing a metalic. just spray just enough for it to be "wet" and self level. on some peices i've done, the results were glass, amazing results. thing i like about the paint is that it's so inert, does'nt fish eye, humidity and temp are allmost irrevelant, unless your doing it in extreems. just a incredibly easy to spray, and flows amazing paint. i sprayed 4 coats on my test pieces, and did'nt wetsand at all, just polish, results were amazing. i'm debating on trying the tremclad clear coat, since tremclad sent me a case of it!!!! good luck. post some pics.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Heres what the wife and I did this morning, 40 degrees outside, right in the parking lot.
$500 daily beater before...




$30 and 3 hours later...




I did zero prep work, no sanding, no priming, I didn't even tape anything off. Satin Black,looks great for me..

---

If I wasn't already sold (and I am becuase I've been looking for semi-gloss black EVERYWHERE) I am now!!

---

We did that to an old police Caprice a few years ago...want to have real fun get a stenil and paint in flat red letters " offical use only " on the doors and some meaningless numbers in flat red on the fenders then black the windows out and stick a few antennas on it....really freaks people out

Quote:

---

I'm trying some Penetrol stuff now. On a small part of my old door, I laid down a coat that colored it completely. It was "Aluminum" color Rustoleum (which is metallic) mixed with penetrol to make a pretty watery mixture as far as I could tell. Anyways, it's laying very flat with no roller marks, so the penetrol is doing its job. I'm going to do 3 coats total, wetsanding after each coat starting with 1000 then end with 1500. The first coat seemed to color it completely so 3 coats should be more than enough.

If penetrol works the way it seems it is, the 50 dollar paint job got a lot easier because you can do 3 coats instead of 6.

The strange thing is this paint, it's called "aluminum" and its from Rustoleum professional... its got lots of metallic in it, but I found it hard to mix up.. there always seemed to be light and dark in the can. The color that ended up on the test area is uniform, but not very glossy. It looks kind of like sandpaper. We'll see how it will dry.

Anyways I am keeping my fingers crossed that using Penetrol somehow results in the final product being harder than the mineral spirit mixes. Though on my prof. test area, I cannot scratch off to the surface, I can still put lots of little designs in it with my fingernail. Other people say their rustoleum dried very hard so I'm not sure what's going on in my garage.

---

be carefull, that alluminum paint is totally different from the other stuff. it's prone to fish eyes, and major shift in the metalics. don't guage your results on this paint, it dries allmost semi-gloss, it will never shine, i know, i used that paint to paint the wheels on the VW's. it's not the same paint as the colors.

Quote:

---

I asked the same question once. The guy used to work in a body shop, and he said that the sanding, even with a very high grit, makes tiny scratches on the paint, and light reflection is different than in the no "scratched areas". when you go in circles or swirls, those scratches are going to reflect light in all directions, not matter where you are looking at the car. It is going to look like a shiny "spider web". In the other hand, when you go in straight lines, the reflections from those scratches, it is going to match with the reflections on the panel if they are parallels. if the reflection is perpendicular to the reflection of the panel, it is going to go in a different directions but not to the observer, so the scratches are less evident.
I hope my explanation is understandable.
To make it easy, It is the same when you are next to a pond and you throw a stone in it. the reflection of light is going to go to your eyes wherever point you are standing at. But when there is waves, you can see the reflection just when you are in the direction of source of light. But you can't see it when you are perpendicular to the source of light.

---