In my experience, poly squeeks more than anything.

Damn Hard to drill yes. Only did the passenger side. Makes the Front segment close to Solid. Just like you say that's needed, {need to make the front segment as solid as possible}.

It works. And yes, you don't drill the spring unless its compressed as the same as it will be on the car with it weighted down.

Basically by bolting the spring, it comes close to achieving the same thing as a traction bar/south side machine bar/etc. Bolting the front spring segment together is Less stiffer then the above.

I did not bolt the driver side together, no need.

As far as shocks, I use a air shock on passenger side with the stock suspension. The more PSI, the better the 60 ft. On the Flimsy stock suspension the passenger side of the axel trys to rotate Up, causing loss of traction the Fix More PSI in the passenger side air shock.

Not sure, they're just videos that I found on youtube.

I'd rather find someone that's switching to a 4 link and selling their caltrac system cheap.

Try a free ad on Racing Junk.

Well my setup is very low buck. Stock SS springs I bought from Mancini around 2009. I use the SS springs and just the longer ext MP shocks with no adjustments. And no pinion snubber as I tried it and it made no difference with the SS springs on my car. All other suspension is stock other then the CE 90/10 front shocks. I do feel the 6 point rollbar stiffened my car more then the frame connectors did so I would at least do a 6 point bar and frame connectors if I were you. At this point in my life cash is very tight so I make the best of what I can. Its nothing fantastic at all but for an average driver I drive to the track its does well enough for me to have alot of fun. My best 60 is a 1.50 with this setup at 10.70's as it usually 60's around 1.50 to 1.55 on most tracks. Dont set the world on fire by no means but I do get to race with some NSS clubs and have fun and I even win some rounds now and then. My cars weighs just over 3700 and I use the 30 x 9 Hoosier radial slicks and I also drive on them. I agree with most as get the springs right and good rear shocks and you should be able to hook it ok with a good tire and have alot of fun. Good luck , Ron

Do you have any pics of this setup, it sounds interesting.

Did you drill the spring with it installed on the car? or off?

Does the bolt stay tight?

All the old tech from the DC manuals still apply for a stock suspension. Stiffer front segment in the leafs. Long shocks/shock extenders so they don't top out. Rear leaf shackles oriented so it allows the chassis to rise when planting the tire.

Used those years ago and clamp every segment on the ft. if you can. No on pinion snubber made my car hop and unload the tires going low 11's and shocks are a great aid although I went and easy 1.33 last time out on old 5-way Ranchos in the rear and 90-10's up front BUT w/Caltracs and have seen guys running em w/multi-leafs w/good success..........I think I ran Imperial rear shocks before the Ranchos cos they were valved decent and extra long so as not to top out.........good luck........

I'm at about 540HP

With 3.54 gear @ 3,950, Getting 1.57-1.61 with 3.54

Got 1.63-1.66 with 3.23's in the 8-3/4 @ 4,050 pounds

Nothing broke.

All I have is XHD springs, Snubber, DANA 60 from Doctor Diff and the S-trac. AutoZone gas shocks.
No clamps removed or added at all.
Front shocks are AutoZone gas replacements.

**Do have a 1-1/8" front sway bar and 7/8" rear sway bar**

1350 yolk front and rear with 3-1/2" d-shaft

I leave @ idle and the car will just about print off time slips within .02

I've had better success with the Pro Bracket Radial 9x28 on a 15x7............the M/T 3754R works just as good but doesn't last as long

I've used two used sets of 3754R's and they work until the cords show..........same as the PBR

Running 11.28-11.38 @ 117-118 depended on weather.

Mike

The bolts stay tight and are on the front only of the passenger side. Holes were drilled while on the car with the cars own weight.

Clamps were used as well on the driver side spring.

Can show you pics, if you pm me a cell number. I think I used 3 7/8th bolts tieing in each front segment on pass, side.

Cool videos. They show what I hoped the Cal Tracs would do. Was the video taken of a 55-57 Chevy? That was a full frame car. Just wondering.

'67 F100

Cal tracs are the better way to go IMO, if you can swing it. As seen in the vid a stock spring setup will have a lot of rotation, even with clamps and such. Your 500 ci, will make sure of that.

Heres the link to to cheap clamps. It wasn't Speedway, it was E trailor. http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/TruRyde/TRSL350.html

This link shows the 3.5 inch shackle witch can be used as a clamp. You will want the 3.1/8" clamp for a better fit with the A body springs. Add some grade 8 bolts for cheap from your local hardware if you go this route. Cant beat the Price. They look more heavy duty then the Jegs or other clamp you posted.

Wow that is cheap. Are they thick enough?

Much thicker then the clamps you showed. Look at the 3.1/8 clamp comparison below in the link, it gives a better picture. They are intended to be spring Shackles, so they Will be stronger, then the clamps you showed.

Ok cool thanks Mike

Hey Bob how have you been? Your car is looking great. My 3500 big block dart had 30 spline moser axles and spool. I broke one 8-3/4 gear set but never twisted a axle etc. The dart would only 60FT at 1.48 but at the time I had the wrong converter in the car.

Thanks Bobby that's good to hear. Been doing good and keeping busy, hope all is well with you.