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how bad is the red paint underneath all of the artwork? Did they just brush that on too? If so, you've got plenty of sanding to do I would think, if you are shooting for a smooth finish that is. I was gonna suggest chemical stripping, but that would probably be a toxic nightmare given how much has to come off. I've done small sections before, but never a whole car. That stuff really works, but it is really nasty, to your skin, to the air (vapors are brutal), and the mess it makes getting all the paint off. It might take longer, but I'd stay with the sanding.

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Well no, it looks like legit car redpaint but they did a HORRIBLE job, it like dripped on to the skirt oversprayed on the emblem, might even be a rattle car job, but its very thick, the art work is thick too :S But yea, gonna take me a while to sand all that. Not in a rush anyways, i dont have a garage to paint it to begin with, so i'm trying to arrange a garage at my friends.

PS: Its this point i feel like "WTF am i doing! "

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I've been reading this thread the last couple of days and it looks like the answer for painting my truck. My question is will bondo work over the rustoleum primer? My truck is bare metal and in need of a fair amount of filler. Can I prime it and then bondo or do I bondo and then prime?

Thanks in advance,
Gary

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sand the metal area to be repaired with 60 grit to give the bondo something to bond to, then use the bondo, then finish it with 400-600 grit then go to primer, or if you wish straight to paint.

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I have not had any problem painting the plastic bumpers in my car. The paint adhesion is the same than the metal or painted surfaces.

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Sweeeeeeet...

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How long should I wait before waxing this thing? I would like to have a couple of layers of wax to protect everything, but I don't want to put it on before the paint has cured...or does it matter?

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I don't have an answer - but what kind of wax are you talking about? It is different than the cheap turtle wax polish you already applied (or did you?). If you're talking the polish, it can be applied right after the final wetsand- but wax maybe a different animal.. 69charger has probably done it, charger, where art thou?

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Exit1965,

I'm talking about real wax, Carnuba or whatever your preference. Just like any other car, I wanna keep the paint safe hehe

bakuryu,

You need to wash the residue off. I just wipe it down with a clean rag and water...let it dry...then wipe everything with mineral spirits again to make sure it's clean. I do get some dust sitcking to the paint (i'm painting in my garage), but it's easy to sand out when you are wetsanding. each coat of paint takes about 90 minutes to harden over and about 4hours to dry enough to wetsand from my experience. I usually put a coat of paint on in the morning then another in the evening and wetsand the next morning.

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How long should I wait before waxing this thing? I would like to have a couple of layers of wax to protect everything, but I don't want to put it on before the paint has cured...or does it matter?

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I don't have an answer - but what kind of wax are you talking about? It is different than the cheap turtle wax polish you already applied (or did you?). If you're talking the polish, it can be applied right after the final wetsand- but wax maybe a different animal.. 69charger has probably done it, charger, where art thou?

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i've allways waxed right after the final polish, never had issues, and the paint on both my cars is rock hard, but i never intentionally tried a scratch test on my cars, only reciently when the whole scratch debate started did i test the charger, which was painted 5 months ago.

as for the wetsanding, i clean the residue off while it's still wet, just after wetsanding, i use a shammy and a bucket of clean water, it's alot eaiser to clean while wet, then just before painting, i clean with mineral spirits, and then use a standard autobody "tach cloth" which is a sticky cheese cloth rag you can get at any auto parts store for $1, before i paint each pannel/area i use the tack cloth, and have virtually no dust/dirt issues.

as for painting over plastic bumpers, i've never had any problems with any parts i've painted, but like any paint if it's flexed enough it will crack. i've painted my 85 CRX bumpers, and my old 86 mustang gt, no issues with the paint sticking or cracking. the front fenders on the charger are fiberglass, i've popped them in and out while working on the engine by accident and nothing happened to the paint, in the sun when those fiberglass fenders heat up they get about 1/4" longer and expand from the heat, no issues.

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Well like the directions suggest, you have to do 2coats then wetsand, the 2 coats and wetsand, the 2 coats and polish. Well when doing the first two coats should i just do the second coat of the first set, after the 90minutes of it hardening or after the complete 4hours, I know these seem to be small stupid questions, but i dont want to get any thing wrong.

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lets say you paint at 10am, wait until at least 7pm to do the next coat, if you do it too early like 90 mins, the new paint might make the old paint soft again. i've allways painted at 10 am or so, then 7pm, then next morning at 8am i'd start wetsanding, clean the whole car with a shamy, then mineral spirits, then tack cloth the area just before painting. this all depends on weather conditions, the hotter the better, but high humidity is your enemy, and you should wait longer. put fans on the car to accelerate the process, try to wetsand a small test area, if it wetsands fine, then your ready to do another coat, if it's still wet, and balls up when wetsanding let dry more.

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wow. there's something I'll bet Tom neever expected to see on MOPARTS..