Yep, major side. Same as doms. I am aware of this. Thats why it got filled.

Hopefully the fill will help. Thrust sides are typically an additional .100 thick.

like some say,dont matter if cold weather block or not,wall thickness is where its at,i fill all my blocks anyway,there coming out with low deck cross bolted blocks away which might be a way to go

Ya, had one .118 in the non thrust area but most are .200+.........Just took it out for some carb tuning and I just can't kill this thing..........

I hope it lives a long life Dom.

I started a thread on this topic about a year or two ago. I posted the sonic numbers in it. Ill see if i can find.

Everything breaks eventually so I keep it outta detonation and keep it at 7000 r's usually..........

I hope mine runs that good.

Maybe better, after all I just run the lowly RPM's w/a slightly bigger than standard port opening...........

Sadly, I have not heard of any true cold weather block having thick bores. There has always been a few cylinders that were thin. I have one myself but have not yet sonic checked it. But only heard of about 4 being Sonic checked because they are rare.

Hope mines a exception. Do love the thick crank journals though. A standard 400 journal is about twice the size of a 440,s The 230 infamous blocks journal is about twice the size of a 400,s journals. Don't know why that is if they didn't bother to make the bores thicker. Mines probably thin too.

I wouldn't use a block with .120 on a major thrust side. NO WAY!!! Unless it was a stock ci low compression build. Especially if I'm building a motor for someone else . Hopfully that measurement is after the bore and hone.....That's just me however. Your block may end up being just fine for several years....... Good Luck and Happy New Year....

Thanks. Happy New Year.

Here is the sonic check on my 230 thick main block, all of these are the thinnest places on the bore checked top middle and bottom

How would sleeving it make the cylinders any thicker.

#1 on major thrust was thinnest on mine. #8 was next with .158 minor thrust. Rest are all near .300.

It might not, but it will fix a problem and add strength at the same time.
Much better material, consistent thickness. Guys have gone as far as to sleave all eight holes looking for better ring seal and strength.

It may not make it thicker, but that doesn't matter, it absolutely makes it stronger. Even .150(let's say) of virgin 2016 production 100k psi ductile iron is far stronger than .250+ of 1978 crusty grey iron from a Monday shift in Detroit.

We probably sleeve at least a block a month that big power (1000+hp) nitrous and turbo guys smash with "overly optimistic" tunes. S/F....Ken M

Crusty grey iron from a Monday shift in Detroit!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There is s hit song in there somewhere.

The nodular or ductile iron sleeve has a higher tensile strength so it handles the pressure better.

The nodular or ductile iron sleeve is 50% stiffer, modulus of elasticity 30million vs 20million for grey iron.

A while back I read a quote from a big engine shop that said most 400 blocks they received had one or two cylinders that needed to be sleeved. If you put another $300 into the block sleeving two and it's a cold weather block then you have decent cylinders AND thicker webs.

One other thing; All cold weather blocks are 230 blocks but not all 230 blocks are cold weather blocks.

R.

Thats the conclusion. Thanks guys. Cold weather block or not, my block has huge main webs and is filled above soft plugs. Im running it.