I could try that. Maybe later in the week.



I actually read in another thread that someone else is having problems with the TTi shorties and Borgeson box. I'm curious if the '67-72 K-frame vs. 73+ K-frame makes a difference.

I would just dump directly out of the resonators. If you go over the axle you're achieving the same effect that 360view was referring to by adding pipe. No guarantees, but it's really the best you can do.

I kind of like that idea.

For denting the tube in just the right way, perhaps a hydraulic c-clamp or similar?

Headers are always a pain with fitment. TTI uses good tubing that is hard to dent. I was initially thinking that you could use a long pry bar in between the area there as well. If it's not transferring vibration into the column or making noise, I would just let it clearance itself.

Plus you don't want to chance cracking the steering box while you are trying to dent the header.

Whats wrong with a few shims between the mount and bracket?

While were talking about noises from the back of the car check to see if the trunk lid torsion bars have a rubber sleeve between them where they crisscross in the middle. If the rubber is missing the bars can rattle against each other.

I don't think the trunk torsion bars could create the exhaust drone, but you may as well add the rubber if you don't have it. A couple inches of fuel line with a slit down the side of it will duplicate the original just fine.

I'll leave it alone for now and probably add resonators to the back in the future.

I have the Vibrant SS 18" Bottle Resonators on mine, and it really makes a difference.

Mark

Same here with the short case super turbos on my big block Dart , I think it's the mufflers , the rest of my system is factory manifolds and mandrel bent tubes front to back.

Have you tried moving the engine to the passenger side some yet ?

I see you have a Borgensen box , TTi makes the headers to fit with a Chrysler box , is the Borgensen that much bigger in that area ?

Don't try to dent the header with a punch, that is not going to work, especially with the header on the engine and in the car.

If shifting the engine over doesn't get you some room I think you should just bite the bullet and pull the header out , dent it , and put it back.

As far as the drone it's those short case mufflers, put on an ultra flo and see if it changes it .

I have those TTi tailpipes, I'm still trying to figure out what the bleep was going thru TTi's mind when they came up with that mess. I cut mine all up to get them in the FACTORY location, total waste of money .

Bringing this thread back from the dead. I have to make this car more road trip/gf bearable. Gf loves the car, but it's pretty annoying that we have to raise our voice in the car to talk cruising around town. I haven't even taken her on the freeway, yet.

Since the last post I had, the 14" Dynomax Super Flow mufflers were removed and 18" Magnaflow mufflers were placed in instead. This removed some of the drone, but not all. Now it only drones between 1800-2100 RPM, but is still pretty bad and in optimal cruising speeds. I also had the leaf springs moved in with Dr Diff's offset shackle kit so adding resonators to the tailpipes may be a no go at this point. I'll have to check tomorrow (finally, a day off). That being said, in December, I'm going to have a 3 week break from my master's program and the last week of the year, I'm taking off from work, so I'll have some time to work on the car. I am thinking about going with some advice most of you had in the beginning and getting rid of the turndown tailpipes and adding some clamp on exhaust tips to, hopefully, redirect the pulses away from the car instead of under the car. I can only imagine it should be pretty easy and only require grinding the tips off, deburring the tubes, and clamping new ones on. Once I have time to play with my el cheapo welder and be comfortable with it, I'll weld them in place in the future. I was thinking about either dual (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/jex-jst123/overview/) or oval tips (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bor-20155/overview/), but am not sure which would look better. I want something a little different than classic round tips. Does anybody know if these usually come with clamps or if I should order some? If so, what's the best clamp to get?

If this doesn't work, I may just follow 360view's advice and try clamping on 90's and making it sort of like a side exit exhaust from the back to get rid of that drone.

I'm looking to order parts soon, so I can just have at it once I finally get my break.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you all and Happy Thanksgiving!

I hope you can deal with your drone with the changes you are making. But my personal experience with this is that nothing will kill the drone other than some sort of after-axle resonator.

If you find an alternate fix, be sure to let us know.

Running the exhaust out to the bumper will be a big help. I had turn downs in front of the diff on my Duster that got to be annoying with the sound resonance later on. Sounded cool at first but not later.

There's a big difference between running turndowns in front of the rear axle and running pipes out to the bumper. But if your tailpipes run to the back bumper and end in turndowns, changing the shape of the last 3" isn't going to change a thing.

One thing to think about is the floor is like a big speaker. You can reduce sound levels a lot by damping this area. There are many choices such as Dynamat, Fatmat, Lizardskin, and asphalt roofing material. I don't fancy my car smelling like the La Brea tar pits on a hot day, so the roofing material is out for me.

The trunk floor is another prime candidate. Then there is the hood and firewall. Lizardskin is applied by spraying so for the trunk and under hood areas it might be best.
You may not want to be spraying in your car interior so one of the peel and stick products would be more readably utilized. Reading the websites I see there is more to the stuff than simple mass loading, which is what the asphalt roofing material does.

Here's an experiment for you: there are a lot of flooring products that come in one foot squares and are peel and stick. You cold run an experiment for just a few dollars. Apply the flooring material to your interior floor and trunk floor. See if it makes a difference. It won't cost a lot as I've bought squares at one of the dollar stores for a dollar a square foot.

I didn't read all the posts so I cant remember if you have an H or X pipe already. If you don't have one, get one in there.

The bullet resonators will also have a great effect on sound. Back in the day there was something called "chambered exhaust" Where the exhaust pipe was deformed so it acted like a muffler. I wonder if anyone has aomething like that to act as a resonator and not take up so much space.

Oh, and nice Dart! It looks super smooth and clean.

Good Luck,
R.

Then there's sound cancelling technology.........

We'll see how it turns out. I have never been a huge fan of the turndowns so getting regular or dual exhaust tips will be a visual more pleasing to me and probably worth the investment. Again, I can add length to the back if I add a 90 degree bend an extend it to a "side exit" exhaust and if that doesn't work, then I'll have enough room for resonators.

Yeah, when I took my car to the shop last, I gave them some dynamat and told them to install it in the cabin and they never did so I still have some left over. For now, I just really don't want to start taking out the interior. Who knows, that may change once I have that week off.

Just walked to the garage and measured things out. Resonators are definitely not going on the tailpipes next to the leaf springs. There will be interference. With just tips alone, it seems like I will only extend the exhaust by 2 inches, so like some of you said, it may not do much.

My other option is doing a rear-side exit exhaust which will definitely be interesting. Either I could just extend the exhaust to the side with a 45-90 degree bend capping it off with exhaust tips or I may have enough room to reroute the exhaust off with just a 60-90 degree bend and a resonator (Either Jones Exhaust - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/jex-jr25/overview/ or Vibrant Performance https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-1792/overview/). If I go to the resonator route, I will probably just have the "cannon" look as I won't have enough room for exhaust tips. Not sure how that will change the sound but hopefully it eliminates drone.

What exhaust clamps do you recommend? I take it these are for pipe-to-mufflers/resonators (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pye-hvc10/overview/) and these are for pipe-to-pipe (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pye-hvc65/overview/).