Since starting from scratch anyways... Have you considered switching to glide?

I know the tracks you race on and I'm afraid you may find some challenges staying consistent with all that BB power and super low first gear. You are minutes from Webb. You could build 2 glides for price of TF

For TF converter ATI was awesome... For glide FTI is awesome.

From a QUALITY converter company, if they miss it badly the first time, chances are you gave them junk info. If they continually "can't get it right".......either you don't know what you want or the car is not repeatable.

GOOD converter companies use good parts and know what they are doing......BUT what they are not is mind readers, or clairvoyant. They rely on data or input that YOU give. Junk in usually results in junk out. Sometimes they also have to deal with guys who SAY what they want, but really have no clue what they NEED. It's always a fine line.

PTC is 30 minutes from me. I go there and just hang out quite a bit. The calls these guys get.........sheez, I would want to eat a bullet........LOL!!!

The way I look at it, I want the guy on the other end of the phone at the converter shop to be on the same page as I am.
If that isnt the case, it's not going to be what you want.

One of my customers had a TCI 9" that had been redone by Lupo when he was still in Ct.
Worked really well for years. Finally broke it, and pretty much wasted it. Plus the technology had changed.
He ended up buying a bolt together deal($1400) from a pretty well known shop that was just way off.
Sent it back many times. They never even got it close. Speed way off, lots of slip, no 60', couldn't get it to cut a light(glide with a brake).
Interestingly, at the same time he bought his, his brother also bought one from them..... And that one worked well first try.
In the end, the shop basically admitted they were stymied by his combo and took it back.

He replaced it with a Hughes converter, which also has a fair amount of high gear slip(and low mph), but the 60' times were back to what they were with the old TCI/Lupo piece, and the consistency on the tree greatly improved.

When he finally stepped up to a bigger motor he got a new converter from PTC, and thàt one was pretty good on the first try.

Years ago when my friend was running an auto in his GTO in Stock, he had multiple converters from a few different shops, and each one went back at least once.
We never got any of them to do what we asked for, and felt there was a fair amount of performance being left on the table, both in ET and speed.
He got tired of spending $$$ and not getting any result for it, so he put a stick in it.
Picked up over .3 and 3mph on the first outing.

One thing when it comes to talking with the conv
people... is using the right terminology... they
cant understand when a person says something when
terminology is different than they they understand
so try to get that right or make sure you both
understand each other.. when I sent my J conv into
Lenny I wanted it tightened up on the slippage and
I wanted the stall dropped about 300-500 rpm.. I
told Lenny what my slippage rate was when in high
gear with OD.. we talked a bit just on that part..
the stall change was the easy part when I told him
the torque of the engine and the rpm of the max torque
and the weight of the car... it came back like I wanted
and the best he could do on the slippage was drop it 1%
more than what it was... its not bad now at 8% in OD..
Paul at TA guessed it would be about 10% but it turned
out to be 9%.. Paul told me right off the bat that he
hasnt done much if any OD stuff so he had a good guess

Black Mystery Donuts
Most important part of a drag car and the least understood

LOL, I didn't even think about that Mike.

I have a 9" ultimate 5300 behind my 720hp BB that was freshened last year then i took it out if your interested

I have a "wrong" converter for my W8.... but works with my iron head 360. I have an absolutely amazing 8" that's a bit slower in et, but cuts 1.34 60's over and over and over again. Made the car extremely predictable, and last I have another 8" that will 60 better with my combo and give me those ET chasing time slips, but at the cost of inconsistent launches. I like this piece when I go to heads up challenge races. Now I just need to get a killer 904 and start over!!

Lenny is good to deal with

I had my convertor done by another company now my lights are worse than before... Trust me they were terrible before

been thinking about that, my engine guy had told me that if I wanted to i could take it to the guy that does his dyno work and he has a shop local to me within 30 miles and that also he is the same guy that used to do all of Larry Morgans engine assembly and dyno testing and is now off on his own, sounds like it would be well worth the money to do that and he isn't that expensive, I agree that if you are happy with a person's work stick with them but I have also heard a lot of good about ATI and Lenny and kind of leaning toward them, thanks for all the input guy's keep it coming.

well my stack of converter boxes all say Ultimate on them

reading this makes me almost want to get the right converter

ATI is my personal favorite.

However, quickdraw did some work for us before... guy knows what he is talking about.

Casey

The smart side of my brain says to stay with him,,as I have said before I have NO complaints.

Quite a few local racers have told me to go to Quickdraw over the years. I never had any problems with my ATI converters though. They drove great on the street for an 8", at the track would footbrake to a 1.36(9.90 car), and only slipped about 3% at the stripe.

We now use Dice Performance Converters out of California. Jeff Paradise was with B&M for decades when they were good products. He is by far the best we've dealt with. Either with Mopar...GM...or Fords. Jeff is a wealth of knowledge and a down right nice guy. The TC in our S/C dragster stalls EXACTLY where he said it would and my boy goes .00X consistently. He just built us a new one for the footbrake Valiant....says boy will be . 00X with it.....and I believe him.

Tell him Ron and AJ Thomas sent ya his way.

Jeff Paradise 818-850-6001

He's on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/diceconverters/?fref=ts

I agree with that. I can only imagine some of the calls these converter company's deal with sometimes. Since I dont race alot I do alot of local cruising on the weekends and meet alot of people in the hobby. And many times I laugh to myself at some of the things some of the people tell me that they feel they know about their cars. Just like a guy telling me how his buddies 71 Mustang with a 429 SCJ eng went 11.94 right off the showroom floor. I realize that when 5 guys all say a certain converter company is junk and 6 more say it the best in the world most of the time its the info they receive about the vehicle they are building the converter for thats the problem. I dont have a real race car or race as much as most but I am very happy with the two converters I have used over the years which are Dynamic and Turbo Action. Both built converters that worked just as I wanted in my cars and I would use them again in a heartbeat. Ron

Just a guess on what will please you for driveability; it sounds like a stock configuration 10 3/4 Mopar converter, set up to act just like a factory original yet be built for the abuse a 540 can deliver is what will work well for you. I used exactly that converter behind a 535 cube wedge with a 590 cam in it, and it stalled plenty high yet was tight enough to not flash a lot higher at a light throttle application. If you take the K factor into consideration, it will give you an idea of what it will do in the car. Those converters were used behind 340s ,383s, and street hemis I believe. The stall behind a street hemi was about 2800 from what I have read, and 2400 behind a 340. That same converter stalled quite a bit higher behind my 535, like mid 3,000 or more.
A couple of things make me think this might be the right path for you. You want street drivability over ultimate performance for one. The other is street traction. A motor like that ought to be able to fry the tires at low speeds anyway, so a high stall loose converter just isn't needed much there.

I've used PTC,Lupo, and Turbo Action in years past. All have worked pretty well. Lupo wanted an arm and leg for refresh. The current car has used ATI and Ultimate. I chased ET with Lenny this summer having no dyno sheet. He was pretty close right off the bat. We tried a couple different ideas. At one time the ATI was the quickest, but not anymore. That being said best to worst wasn't much over .10-15 in ET
Doug