Anybody done a cab swap?
I'm building a 1981 Dodge Stepside. ProStreet.
I'm a fan of older iron, I love the old cars and trucks most. A 1959 Dodge cab and front end has come available. We measured, looks like I can make it fit on my truck if I shorten the frame 6" and make the obvious stuff work.
Anybody ever tried a 1958/59/60 cab and front end on a newer 81 and up truck????

ME? not yet. I did do a 91 cab on a 85 stepside swap to go hydro clutch with a 93 NV4500 5 speed.

IIRC, member poorboy had a 50s cab on a 80s frame at one time.

I've seen a 50's truck on a ramcharger frame for a 4wd conversion. I didn't look at the work involved though.

Well I've made a deal for a cab that I want to put on my 1981 Dodge Stepside. I'm going to throw some 325/50/15 drag radials under the back, toss a healthy hydraulic roller 360 I have in it, then install this as the cab.
I have registrations for both trucks so I'll ask at the DMV what to do...

When I did my 50 (and my 54) the biggest issue was the newer front clips are longer then the older (48-54 and the 54-56 years) front clips. That puts the back of the motor, when mounted in original position on the newer frame, into the firewall about 6". The problem is, you don't have room in the old front clip to move the motor forward either. Moving the firewall back into the old cab 6" so the motor can fit, puts the firewall's new location about even with the bottom of the dash.

That said, I believe the 57 & newer trucks have a longer nose then the 48-56 does, I would take a measurement. On my 50, I lifted the cab about 4 additional inches until the firewall cleared the original motor location on the 80 Dodge 4x4 chassis, and then I had to modify the wheel openings in the front sheet metal.

When I got done with my 50, I went to a local licensing agent with both titles and ask them. They asked me which one it looked like, I said it looks like the 50, and they said title it that way. The "correct way" would probably have your local title people create a new truck vin by combining the new chassis with the old cab. For what its worth, my truck roamed the streets for 12 years, and got totaled in a crash, the title was never questioned. Gene

I believe I will have to shorten my frame behind my cab 6" to bring the front wheel openings into alignment with the front wheels, and cut a little less than 6" off the front of the frame, and it should fit. Might have to move the firewall back a couple inches.
Looks like the steering box should be close behind the front end sheetmetal but should work. I'll take more accurate measurements next time I get a chance.

I hope you post pics as you do the project. it sounds like a fun hot rod project to me.

For sure scratchnfotraction.
I'm hoping to pick up the cab and front end this weekend....

OK, I'm confused. How is shortening your frame behind the cab going to change the front axle position? Basically what I'm gathering is that you intend on moving the cab forward on the frame, the shorten the rear frame to move the rear axle forward.

Moving the cab forward on the frame, to center the front tires in the fender openings will put the motor deeper into the cab. If you shorten the frame in front of the cab, that's a little different, but the motor will still be in contact with the firewall. Moving the motor forward on the frame will help, but that will be a major project.

One thing you may be able to do is add length to the front sheet metal, and shift the cab back as far as need be. Its difficult to pull off and make look right, but then you can leave the motor in place on the frame.

If you use an 80s W150 frame, with the the V8 in its original position on the frame, the trans and front axle are pretty much locked in the original location unless you start moving springs and making driveshafts. The relationship between the front axle, the motor, the frame position, and everything attached to it will be difficult to change.

When you add a cab that is shorter (front to back 59 cab compared to the 81 cab) then the original cab was, and you are using front sheet metal that is shorter (front to back, 59 to the 81 front sheet metal) then the original front sheet metal on the original frame, you have to accommodate the longer frame parts location to the shorter sheet metal. The sheet metal needs to change by either growing longer(adding the filler pieces) or you have to cut and modify the sheet metal to fit.

I might suggest the earlier Dakota (87-99) chassis will fit the 59 truck better then the W150 will. On the early Dakota, the motor is centered over the front axle more then the full size truck motor is. The difference in the motor position better matches the motor to axle location of the 50s trucks.

I've done this stuff a few times before. Gene

It's easy.
If I line up the front wheel openings with the 1960 cab there will be 6" of too much of a gap between the rear of the cab and the front of the box.
The frame will get shortened 6" behind the cab so there is a proper gap.

The front of the frame might have to be shortened a bit, but not much. We took a quick look, doesn't seem to pose a problem.

I don't care about shortening diffs, shortening driveshafts, moving engines and firewalls if need be. It ain't a big deal to me honestly, but I think all we might need to do is find a correct length driveshaft if all works well. If not, we are pretty good at making things work!

Wellllllll..... My cab is home, nestled in a warm garage.... I have a bit of work to do now.... lol
WooOoOOT!!!

That some good looking sheet metal! I had a 58 Dodge pickup I so badly wanted to build, many years ago, but someone wanted it more then I did. Stupid money changed hands and the truck was no longer mine. If I had that 58 in these days, it would be being built, stupid money or not! Those trucks were not easy to find back then, and they are much harder to come by these days.
Be sure to post a build thread, I'd like to follow along. Gene

Sure Gene! Thanks!
It's in incredible shape, we were surprised. I will take better pics when I can but as far as rust or damage goes it's incredible IMO. Original paint but somebody dusted the top of the fenders and the hood with what looks like a white spray bomb. Interior is pretty good too.
I was looking on Ebay at grills, I cleaned mine when I got it home. I think its actually good!?!

These older cabs aren't real wide, that's why most people use a mid size truck like Dakotas or S10s for doner frames. I used an 88 Dak for the frame under my 57. The track width was within an inch of being the same.

I noticed that! I have 15x4 skinnies for the front, will see how it goes. Or I'll be looking at more options..... lol

Where does the Dakota frame place the engine on your 57? Where is the steering box?

The engine was tight, but part of that is how low I sat the cab down on the frame. My Dak had power rack and pinion, so that gained room.

Was it a regular cab shortbox Dakota you used or? What box are you using??

dont get hung up on the dakota frame as being narrower---put a tape measure on it-----my son and i just cut the front frame off a 2000 cummins truck and welded it to the rear of a durango frame----same width----yes a cummins durango------i think you can use the short bed frame with custom cab mounts----again---get out the tape measure.....

one more thing---on your 1958 the stock box sat on a flat frame----no kick up over the rear wheels----guys doing the frame swaps have to allow somehow for the original box to fit over that spot----if you use a stock step side box like off an 80's truck it will fit on your 150 frame-----if you look at the durango you will find it has a flat frame over the rear wheels which would work with a stock 58 box----pick your poison......

I used a regular short box Dakota, but I only used from behind the cab forward. I welded this to the rear section of my 57 frame that I reworked. I wanted a flat bed floor without any kick ups in the middle and I wanted it as low as possible.I also cut the inner wheelwheels ( they are only about an inch wide) and inserted a 9'' strip of metal in the middle to give me factory appearing tubs. My truck falls in to the Pro street category. It sets low with 14' of wheel tucked up under it.
The main reason for Dakota is Track Width, not so much frame width.