Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Since I can't find any non spray clear coat, what do you think about rolling on some spray on clear coat?

ebay link clear coat enamel

---

ummm, i guess you could try, i'd just be concerned about compatability between the 2 paints, the rustoleum/tremclad is a acklyd based enamel, and that clear is for acrylic enamel, which is typically a single stage process paint. i'd stay away from anything that uses a hardner, things could get ugly!!!! i would just try to cut/buff the paint straight, unless your lucky enough to be in canada and can get the tremclad.

---

Quote:

---

This is my results so far without using a clear coat

---

sweet, i was considering that color too a long time ago. how is the scratch resistance on your paint?

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

. when i expiremented with it years ago i thinned with mineral spirits, and the tremclad dude said that will KILL the shine completely. i guess i should have read the can before using it.

---

What did he say to thin it with instead? Lacquer Thinner as well? Just trying to be a little critical with all the details and questions asked before I start...

Frank.

---

the paint is thinned with mineral spirits, and the clear coat should be thinned with laquir thinner from what they said.

---

You mentioned something about the RustOleum Stops Rust being alkyd-based like the Tremclad rust paint that you used. Did the representative mention anything about the Professional Series line?

I was at Home Depot and I couldnt find the gallon version of the Stops Rust paints, only Pints.. but maybe I wasnt looking hard enough...

What I did find was the Professional Series line of the paints w the same color names. Im not sure if those were the same paint base as the Tremclad Rust paint and the RustOluem Stops Rust line.

Just bottom line, I'm wondering what the base of the RustOleum Professoinal Series is...

Frank.

Quote:

---

Okay, since this forum was such an inspiration, I have to ask everyone's opinion. I've been thinking about the stripes to paint on my beloved beer fridge...

Old school or New school stripes?

By old school, I was considering the late 60's/early 70's style of one thick stripe off-centered with an accompanying thin stripe beside or

New School/muscle car look - two wide stripes down center.

Keep in mind, my muscle car days have long been over, in the garage is a '73 240Z. I was thinking old school stripes would kind of add to the "retro" flavor.

Opinions?

---

Old school of course, geeez, how could you ask such a silly question!!!

Quote:

---

Old school of course, geeez, how could you ask such a silly question!!!

---

Quote:

---

Hi!
I hope you don’t mind a “bug guy” joining the party. I wanted to applaud you guys for what you’re doing. You’ve got poor, garage-less Joes like me in three countries cheering!
Wow…an alternative to auto painting that doesn’t require hundreds or even thousands of dollars!

It seems like you’ve stumbled on a variation of the old art of “coach painting.”
Here’s a site that goes more into it:
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/index.html

There are techniques in coach painting that we may be able to pick up on. The only problem is, the paint that’s used is only available in one country (gee that sounds familiar!) I do see similarities in coach paint to what all of you are working with. What intrigues me is that to get a gloss, coach painters use a certain type of varnish. That may be the key to our common quest. Like EXIT1965, I'm trying to find a clear paint that's brushable and compatible with Rustoleum. The research and experimentation goes on. Good luck amigos!

---

Welcome Bugr.

I called Rustoleum yesterday and asked about the clear enamel.. they told me that the clear, cheap rustoleum enamel was not available in anything but spray. They told me a part # of some industrial clear coat, but I couldn't find it online and I think it wouldn't be available in California anyways.

At walmart yesterday I read label on the can of aeresol clearcoat and it says apply 2 thin coats. I really don't think I'll mess with a clear coat, I can't imagine doing an entire car with spray cans.. twice.. and even then not knowing what will become of the clearcoat in months or years. So as of now I think I'll just go with the paint and turtle wax. for the almond color im interested in it should be OK with the current amount of gloss (which isn't a whole lot).

I am going to do some more experimenting with the professional line also. For the guy above who asked about the professional line, you can buy smaller containers of it at Lowes, and according to Rustoleum, it dries faster. It does seem to do that in my experience. Not sure what the other benefits of it are. Anyways back to experimenting -- the last time I tried a test area with professional, the area was in terrible shape (very uneven) so it was hard to compare it against the standard rustoleum area which looked good and had a nice surface. Soo I've decided to flatten out a nice area on my test door (here is a pic of a fresh skim coat of bondo/fiberglass resin that should do the job), and take a shot with the professional stuff again. If it works out well there should be a very nice smooth reflection on the side of the door like there was on the first area I did with standard rustoleum. I like the fact that the professional seems to dry to a harder finish faster so it's worth a shot.



for anyone still wondering, I can still scrape the standard rustoleum with my nail if I catch it just right. I know the surface wasn't prepped as well, but my nail still cuts all the way to the surface which to me says it isn't hard yet, and it's been damn near a month. Anyways, I don't want to beat a dead horse.

Quote:

---

Still following this forum. I said I would post pics. of my progress. They are in my computer, but as yet have found a way to post to this site, will keep trying. Anyway, I have numerous panels that have been sanded down to 2000 grit. I can't scrach the paint. etc. The oldest panel is about 2 weeks old, but when I try to buff, not much happens. I was wondering if the paint needs to cure for 3 months as some would suggest, i.e. before waxing. Maybe I am using the wrong approach, but I am using the cheap polishing compound, and a wool buffing pad. It just tends to ball up. I'm confused, any help with buffing, and the right supplies would help. Thanks.

---

Quote:

---

...when I try to buff, not much happens...I am using the cheap polishing compound, and a wool buffing pad...any help with buffing, and the right supplies would help. Thanks.

---

Hi All...congratulations on bringing this interesting technique to light. I was referred here by a link on hotrodding.com!! I have read every post with interest and decided it was worth a try.

I too am having the trouble described in this earlier post. Everything seemed to be going well until the final wetsand/polish then things went south fast...

a.) wetsand after sixth coat with 1500
b.) buff with "TurtleWax Polishing Compound"

It just does not seem to bring the shine back!! It looks like it does after every other coat/wetsand (dull and scratchy...the areas that haven't been hit during wetsanding shine really nice!). I'm not using a "pro" grade buffer, just one of those $20 orbital buffers w/wool pad like this one. Could this be the problem? Are you guys using variable speed buffers to polish?

To be truthful, I think I would have been better off to skip the final wetsand and just polishing the sixth coat.

HELP!!

Thanks again for the wonderful postings and cheers to all the contributors...Chuck