Just got done wetsanding my test hood after the first two coats. Have never done painting or wetsanding, so I don't know how I'm doing so far, but it doesn't look too bad I guess. I'll have to get some pictures taken. How smooth should it be after you wetsand? I used 800.
Thanks,
David

Ricklandia - funny post. but it shows why you have to expirement with the process until you get all the bug out and are comfortable doing it. seems like you're going thru the typical learning process. maybe you should concentrate on only the door for example so you don't create more work or yourself. your in a very hot and humid climate, which is the worst conditions to paint in, and that's why using more mineral spirits to thin makes it eaiser to lay down because you increase the pot life and work time of the paint. with the bubbles, make sure you really mix the paint well for like 10 mins before you paint, it looks like it's mixed, but it's not, mix more. then after you put the paint on, let it sit for 2-5 mins, then roller with virtually no pressure. a little blow should get rid of them. the main thing is that you have to refrain from applying heavey coats, and apply thin coats. i know it's hard, but try!!! seems like your getting the hang of it and you'll soon be a expert!!! also when you mix the paint in your tray, if you se and bubbles in the paint after you've mixed it and loaded up the roller, use a peice of paper towel and skim the surface to remove the bubbles. avoid pushing really hard and going fast when loading up and squeezing out the paint of the roller as that creates bubbles too. i load up the roller good at first, then just dip it in the paint and have lots of paint in the roller and spread it on the surface. hope i've explained it well, hard to describe it in text, much eaiser in person. remember, your ratios of mineral spirits are very different due to your climate, i hope that does'nt throw everyone else off. good work grasshopper, soon you will be ready..........

also i'm quite interested in the clear coat, after talking with the tremclad tech guy and the revelation of using laquier thinner and NOT mineral spirits, i think i'm going to try it when my free case of paint and clear comes!!! he did say that there's basically a test, where they shine light at a 60deg angle to the paint and measure the ammount of light reflected. with the tremclad clear it reflected 90% of the light. that # intreegues me and it's worth it to try it out. allthough i'm very happy with the shine on my car, it would be nice to really take the time to make my car show quality and really blow peoples minds.

EXIT1965 - thanks for taking some of the questions, seems like you're my #2 man, you've got enough expirence that i now deputize you!!!!

Ok, so Saturday I'm runnin around getting stuff for the Dart's paint and body work..I'm in teh hardware store's paint aisle, and there was a 1 gallon can of Rustoelum "Professional Grade" Enamel paint, in Sand color. I read the can. First, it says nothing about mineral spirits, it says thin with Acetone(?)..It also says paint will be dry in 5-10 hours depending on temps, which by the can said 60*F and above, and humidity below 85%. It did say rolling and spraying and brushing were all valid techniques. So, perhaps it IS the mineral spirist part? I've always thought mineral sprits were for stains, and laquer thinner/acetone were for typical "paints". Dont know if that helps, but it's what I read..

Also, it said it can go over any base material, including bare metal, but if you wanted "all the benfits of the rust inhibiting properties.." or something like that, to use their primers..

yeah, I think what we're finding is paint is like gasoline..The formulation and marketed types are different depending on the place in the
country(ies) you are.

too. I know I would definately like to try the Tremclad as it has been described here as being a much tougher paint (ie. near impossible to scracth off) even after just a few days. Just trying to scracth it off the can wasn't even possible. Personally I think that the Tremclad seems to be a better paint. Only time will tell when everyone reports back with their toughness tests in a few more weeks, after the Rustoleum has been on for a while.

Project Beer Fridge - Part 2

Well, after a good nights sleep and an exhausting day at the office, Project Beer Fridge entered phase two.

1. Wetsanded down the fridge concentrating on the drips and runs from my poor cut-in work last night.

2. A wipedown with mineral spirits afterward began to reveal the potential.

3. Mixed up another batch of paint - a fairly strong dilution as was the second coat last night. Approx 25% would be my guess, possibly too thin but after seeing the results of leaving it too thick last night I wanted to see the results if it was diluted too thin (if indeed it was).

4. Application went on VERY smoothly tonight. Rolled out well, and was even able to attain the magic "light touch bubble removing technique" as described by 69Charger. Interestingly, what I found worked equally as well, if not quicker, was just a slight puff of air. The "air" technique was able to un-bubble as much as 1.5 sq. ft. of painted surface at a time. I think this may be an indicator that the mix might be just about right.

5. Took a brief break while waiting to coat three to dry. Things are starting to look good. Other than a few very small spots, the paint has now coated thick enough to hide the original color. The bottom door looks much improved from last night, the top doorlooks good other than some sag along the top corner that I failed to sand down enough. :/

6. Coat 4 goes on. Again, smooth and easy and things are really starting to take shape. Doors look better yet - Left and Right sides look... great! Top as well!

7. Have learned that "Beer Fridge's" best friend is... no, not the one that feeds it with a constant supply of ice cold delicious liquid heaven. No, Beer Fridge's best friend apparently is Dog Hair. Note to self: Shave the dogs

8. Clean up and assess; Tonights lessons learned are unknown. Certainly the thinner mix works much better for the rolling, but the trade off is that applying it with the foam brush yields very poor results. It's so thin it basely wants to "fill" or cover as traditional cut in painting does. I have several areas where I taped off that just dont seem to want to hold the paint when brushed on. Again, when painting an auto all these parts would be stripped off, but it does make me wonder how painting tight spots will go ( ie vents slots, door jams, rain rails, etc)

It's late, I'm tired. Time to think on it tomorrow.

Been following this thread forever now, and i finally ahve some funds to experiment. For everyoen continuing to post, thanks for all the valuable information.


Im going to try the fender of my car tomorrow, and what I wanted to ask was, when I do it, the stock paint (from 85) is still there, can I just remove the silicone and any other oils, sand, then paint over it?

Still waiting for pics Ricklandia??

Here is the hood sanded and ready for the first coat. Sanded with 80, 120, 220, and 320.

next is after one coat I think.

more. you can see the original paint like others have said.

more.

Keep us posted!

more

this is after wetsanding with 800, i think i need to sand it a little more.

last one for now, let me have some tips because I have never painted or wetsanded before. Also, let me know if you want me to post pictures after each step.