Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: Supercuda]
#2206285
12/02/16 01:25 AM
12/02/16 01:25 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26
British Columbia, Canada
|
Why put it under the dash?
If you can run vent hoses thru something like a narrow console put the unit in the trunk. I am definitely considering a console of some sort. I have my doubts that it would be any too practical for running a/c lines through (which I really don't need) but the thought has crossed my mind. For one thing there will be a floor shifter in the way. I need to keep an open mind for all these details though, never know what may - or may not - work. The "trunk" area in the '33 is pretty small. The battery and spare tire are already located in there. Access is by pulling the rear seats forward.
|
|
|
Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 5wndwcpe]
#2206289
12/02/16 01:29 AM
12/02/16 01:29 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26
British Columbia, Canada
|
...and if you get one of those fancy, bottom tilt bench seats you can put the fusebox under there.
Actually, we are using what I think are Honda bucket seats in front, and I have put them on a pair of 3" raised metal channels. There's room there for the fuse panel. It doesn't matter to me if the wiring is a few feet longer, since we are starting from scratch with a new wiring harness. Any wiring can easily be routed through the side of the console.
|
|
|
Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: poorboy]
#2206307
12/02/16 01:47 AM
12/02/16 01:47 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26
British Columbia, Canada
|
My 35 Dodge (from years ago) had small slots at the bottom of the windshield that were cut into the garnish moldings. Those slotted vents were supplied with fan forced warm air from a tube connected to the heat unit. I can tell you the warm air forced through those small slots cleared the windshield very quickly.
I suggest you use the area under the dash for heat/cool and windshield wipers, and run the electrical not needed in the dash, to under or behind the rear seat. The voltage in the wiring won't care how far it travels before it reaches its destination. Warm air from a heating unit can cool pretty quickly in a cold car, you want to keep those heat caring hoses as short as possible. Gene Well now, there's some good info. Was that a stock type vent under the window? If so, then I should be able to find a pic somewhere. I was discussing that very thing with number two son, but he didn't think that you could get enough warm air through to help. I absolutely believe you when you say that would clear the windshield. There's no reason that it shouldn't. Now that channel under the window on the '33 is a small box like section. I'm back at home now, about 500 kilometres away from the car, but I think that section is about an inch deep and maybe 3/4" wide. I could do a little sheet metal fabbing to run the warm air through and insulate that with stick-on duct insulation. The wiper motor - single - is mounted overhead on this car. It sure could use a second, or even a third wiper with that low chopped window. I haven't measured the height of it yet, but the guys have very kindly given me info on their window heights. Did the Dodge mount the wipers from below I take it? I think in deference to the very kind original poster that I should be starting a thread on this car. There's a way to go yet and I'm quite positive there will be loads of questions still.
|
|
|
Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2206521
12/02/16 02:56 PM
12/02/16 02:56 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,022 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,022
Freeport IL USA
|
First off, a 35 Dodge (or Plymouth) is a much different car then a 33 is, lots of stuff changed in those few years. Second, 35 Dodge was a pile of cut up rusted metal when I started, anything that may have been there originally was long gone when the "car" came into my possession. I'll post before and after pictures for your amusement.
That said, I learned very early in my build that if I wanted something I could drive, I would need to see what modern parts could be adapted. With that in mind, I have a 2004 PT Cruiser. That PT has fairly narrow bucket seats, and the non power passenger side seat in on a pedestal with a drawer in it. That drawer opens about 8" away from the seat bottom, one could mount the fuse box & whatever other electrical component he wanted access to in the drawer with enough wiring in a loop to allow it to be opened and closed. On my 35, both seat bottoms were touching each other, a console would have been pretty narrow, especially if there was a shifter in it. I can't believe a 33 has more room between the doors then the 35 had, if you have not set some sets in the car yet, you might want to check it out before you make too many plans. Creating duct work is a pretty easy task, compared to the other stuff you have to do.Gene
|
|
|
Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: poorboy]
#2206562
12/02/16 04:48 PM
12/02/16 04:48 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26
British Columbia, Canada
|
First off, a 35 Dodge (or Plymouth) is a much different car then a 33 is, lots of stuff changed in those few years. Second, 35 Dodge was a pile of cut up rusted metal when I started, anything that may have been there originally was long gone when the "car" came into my possession. I'll post before and after pictures for your amusement.
That said, I learned very early in my build that if I wanted something I could drive, I would need to see what modern parts could be adapted. With that in mind, I have a 2004 PT Cruiser. That PT has fairly narrow bucket seats, and the non power passenger side seat in on a pedestal with a drawer in it. That drawer opens about 8" away from the seat bottom, one could mount the fuse box & whatever other electrical component he wanted access to in the drawer with enough wiring in a loop to allow it to be opened and closed. On my 35, both seat bottoms were touching each other, a console would have been pretty narrow, especially if there was a shifter in it. I can't believe a 33 has more room between the doors then the 35 had, if you have not set some sets in the car yet, you might want to check it out before you make too many plans. Creating duct work is a pretty easy task, compared to the other stuff you have to do.Gene Thank you once again Gene. I take it the gentleman in the blue shirt holding the steering column is "The Boss"...the other guy must be the helper, right? Yes, there's no way that there's more room in the '33. The cars got wider over the years, and doubtless your '35 was a little bit wider. I had a '35 Chevy 2 door sedan previously, and it wasn't much - if any - wider than the Plymouth. When I got this car it was running and licensed for the road. So the seats have been in place since long before I got it. They originally sat right on the floor, which was too low for me. The car as it sits now is totally apart, right down to the bare frame. As far as the fuse panel goes, I could put it in a drawer under the passenger seat. My '04 Dodge van has a similar pull out drawer to your PT. Probably the same thing. It could also be made to come out far enough to access all the wiring to the panel. I'm not at all worried about any sheet metal work for ducting, that's easy enough. That's quite the job you did on the '35 I must say.
|
|
|
Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: Old Ray]
#2206717
12/02/16 10:20 PM
12/02/16 10:20 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26
British Columbia, Canada
|
As far as the fuse panel goes, I could put it in a drawer under the passenger seat. My '04 Dodge van has a similar pull out drawer to your PT. Probably the same thing. It could also be made to come out far enough to access all the wiring to the panel. No. Because I have done it. (magic wagon drawer) I thought it sounded good too and it looks cool, but there are a couple of drawbacks (learnt afterwards of course) ; it takes a lot more wire because if you are using it as a distribution source then the fused power goes to the dash switch and then back to the panel and then out to the switched device, this all adds up to a lot of wire and becomes very difficult to hide neatly and interferes with the opening and closing of the drawer. Also the seat cushion sits overtop of the open drawer and limits accessibility. Ask me how I know all this? I will do it differently next time, with more accessible. My shop truck; Ray, I didn't have in mind using an open topped drawer. It would seem to me to be begging for trouble. I will have more than 3" of vertical space, as that is the height of the channel which I raised the seats with. Probably more like 4" plus. That should be plenty. We will use a larger wire gauge as necessary if any of the runs get lengthy. But as Gene points out, those cars are tiny inside. Not a lot of added length in any event. Another option might be to conjure up a hinged panel mounted on the firewall, such that when it opens, you are looking at the business side of things. Or maybe mounted on some sort of sliding mechanism. There will be a way.
|
|
|
Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#2206723
12/02/16 10:25 PM
12/02/16 10:25 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26 British Columbia, Canada
cocobolo
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 26
British Columbia, Canada
|
I'm not running any type of heat or a/c. With the windshield cranked out and the cowl vent opened, that's just about as good as a/c. If it gets cold enough for heat, i'll park it, or get one of those heaters that you plug into your cig. lighter. Because my windshield has been chopped, the builder didn't leave the open function working, it is now fixed. But the cowl vent still works just fine. We only got to make a couple of relatively short trips this year, and the vent did the job. However, I would like some heat and defrost for the many cooler days we get up this way...just have to work out how to get it functional. I'm liking Gene's mention of the slots in his '35. Seems like a good way to go.
|
|
|
Re: 33 plymouth 2 dr. sedan
[Re: Old Ray]
#2206891
12/03/16 11:19 AM
12/03/16 11:19 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,742 north of coder
moparx
Buying your homeless and unwanted bolt on battery terminals
|
Buying your homeless and unwanted bolt on battery terminals
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,742
north of coder
|
as far as seats go, some second row minivan bench seats work very well at times. i used the third row, folding bench from my 95 caravan in my cousin's 28 model A [i know, it's not a mopar, but it's tiny inside that cab] roadster pickup. i also incorporated the second row buckets tilt/latch mechanism along with the worn out hood gas struts from my wife's '94 concorde. that setup works super ! not only does the back fold forward, the entire seat rises to gain access [not much, but any extra room in one of these is greatly appreciated] to storage behind, and under the seat. i did, however, need to slightly narrow the framework on the bottom in a pie shape cut on both front corners to fit the body, as the seat at the front fit as was, but was right against the doors without upholstery. in all, [if i remember right] it was 1 1/2" per side. real easy to do, and i reused the original foam after cutting a tiny slice from each side. the upholstery guy did the rest. i also made that stainless steel, four spoke, wood steering wheel. i'm not sure i want to go through that again ! that was a story in it's own !
Last edited by moparx; 12/03/16 11:22 AM.
|
|
|
|
|