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w as for your trim holes exit1965, you could get a copper block and weld in your trim holes. the weld does not stick to the copper, and the copper block helps disipate heat at the same time to avoid warpage.

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i would say all the holes can be done this way, if you go to a welding store or a good auto supply store they sell the copper block that is magnetic. granted you have to take off inner door pannels for example to get the block in behind the pannel but they are all accessable and can be done with this method. i've done it alot and it really works good.

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Also I was playing around with this way of painting and wondered if anyone has tried to use the same color Rustoleum in spray to do the jambs and engine compartment.

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I think thats what i plan on tryin

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WOW! What a thread! I've read maybe 1/2 of it and feel compelled to ask my own question, hope it wasn't already asked and answered on a page I glossed over.
Anyway.....is this Rustoleum paint resistant to gasoline? I would hate to fill up and screw up the side of my car.

Also, what's with all the "deleted by Ira" replies? Hopefully not excessive censoring going on here

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the deleted by ira posts was a guy that wanted to have a fight, things got ugly and he deleted the post.

i have a story about the resistance to gas: i was out for a cruise one day, in the sun, it was 38 dec celcus (100 deg F) and i stopped to buy gas, while i was filling gas on my orange beetle, the gas nozzel got stuck on full. so the tank filled and sprayed the whole front of the car when i pulled it out and threw it on the ground when it finally shut off. so there was my car in really hot sun on a hot day with the whole front of the car covered in gas. i complained to the owner and he gave me a free car wash, oh wow, i said i hope the paint will be ok. anyways there was absoultly to damage done by the gas on the whole front of my car, but it did eat the rubber on my running boards which i had to replace. also i painted a 71 kawasaki motor cycle gas tank about 15 yrs ago with black tremclad and i've spilt 15 years worth of gas on it and it still looks great. the paint is after all oil based. i've had gas stain single stage paint if you spill it and forget to whipe it in the sun.

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I'm glad to know I'm not alone with the fingernail test, but sad to hear others are having the same issue (!).

I can still scratch the cheap stuff off fairly easily with my fingernail (digging in then pulling down), the industrial so far has been tougher but I can still do it.

There's probably still time for it to dry and harden more, but in any case I think it's unusual to have a sharp object dig in and scrape down, so I feel good (especially with the price) about painting a weekend cruiser car with it.

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i can honestly say that the paint probally would have scratched off on my cars too. i noticed when i was assembling the 74 beetle about a week after painting that the paint would "dent", like when i was putting on the engine cover handle, and the handle was crooked, so i unbolted it and noticed that it left a dent, and the paint was really soft. you can barley see it now, i had to move the handle and rebolt it. but, i never tried to "scratch" it since i was not painting a test peice. i could see that it would scratch off eaisly in the first month or so, but now, honestly no matter how hard i try there is no way i could even put a hairline scratch in the paint with my nail. i honestly think that the rustoleum will dry the same as tremclad, i'd even be willing to put a wager! lol. it takes time for the paint to fully dry, and temperature plays a big role also, the colder, the longer it will take. even with modern paint jobs, your not supposed to wax even until like 3 months. and that stuff also remains soft. like when i shoot single stage, it also takes alot of time to dry.