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With a black hood? Cool, im planning the same thing for mine except with a glass cowl hood..

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Actually this is with a black hood and slant callout

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If you have to have a special color mixed, which requires the can to be shaken, there is a simple process to remove (ALL) bubbles. If you don't have time to just wait, you can achieve the same (actualy better) results by pulling a vacuum on the paint for 30 minutes - 1 hour.
There are several methods of doing this, but the easiest and (least scientific) is to hook a strong bilge pump to a hose going into the top of your paint can. The seal needs to be (of course) air tight, but that will definately get rid of all bubbles in your paint.
The more scientific way is actually fun to watch; you place your paint in glass jar so you can see the bubbles; sit the glass jar on a table; place a LARGE bell jar over the glass jar full of paint. Cut a hole in the table and pass an air hose through the hole (we used threaded fittings). Hook the hose to a pump and once you started pulling a vacuum, you can see all the air bubbles go to the top of the jar and disappear.
This process is used by the defense dept to apply tough finishes to cruise missles, etc... (Not classified info by the way..)

Good Luck

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you could also take it into the vacuum of space ahhhhh sorry i just could'nt resist, but he's right, that's a good way to remove bubbles quickly. or you could just mix the paint and not have it shaken.

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If you have to have a special color mixed, which requires the can to be shaken, there is a simple process to remove (ALL) bubbles. If you don't have time to just wait, you can achieve the same (actualy better) results by pulling a vacuum on the paint for 30 minutes - 1 hour.
There are several methods of doing this, but the easiest and (least scientific) is to hook a strong bilge pump to a hose going into the top of your paint can. The seal needs to be (of course) air tight, but that will definately get rid of all bubbles in your paint.
The more scientific way is actually fun to watch; you place your paint in glass jar so you can see the bubbles; sit the glass jar on a table; place a LARGE bell jar over the glass jar full of paint. Cut a hole in the table and pass an air hose through the hole (we used threaded fittings). Hook the hose to a pump and once you started pulling a vacuum, you can see all the air bubbles go to the top of the jar and disappear.
This process is used by the defense dept to apply tough finishes to cruise missles, etc... (Not classified info by the way..)

Good Luck

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That does work, that's how I removed the bubbles from the RTV I used on the solar panels I built. Had to remove the bubbles because a bubble would expand in space (on a satellite) and crack/break the solar cells potentially making the whole array useless.

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AAAAHHHH bubbles, snow, leaves on the ground in the fall, etc... The things we just loved as a kid are a real pain in the %#$ when we get out into the real world!!!!! as adults. But hey I think I am going to just stick with the Rustoleum paint and just roll with it. After reading the posts from when this thing first started there are numerous guys who said they used this paint. Doing their daily drivers and with no prep or wetsanding and had a decent paint job, but best of all they say their rides are still holding up out in the daily elements. That just shows the durability of this Rustoleum paint I would say.
"Roll-on fellas Roll-on" Jay

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I'll be doing it to my duster as soon as i get it running and can pull it in the garage when i coat it. Just boughta polisher off ebay for $30 (shipped). I plan on doin the best i can for as cheap as i can

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My intentions are not to add to the confusion about all the different types of paint that might achieve the same results. If Tremclad was available locally, I wouldn't even bother looking for alternatives, but it isn't, so I am.

I went to my local Sherwin-Williams store and asked what they had comparible to the Tremclad/Rust-o-leum Alkyd paints.

The first thing he did was look on the internet and studied the data sheet for Tremclad, then he showed me their version of the same product (Sherwin-Williams Patent of the same product).
Name: Exterior Alkyd All Surface Enamel A11 Series
The Can states that it controls rust and erosion.

The data sheet states similar cure times as the rust-o-leum products.

I bought one quart of the white and had it tinted seafoam green.

Anyway, I'm testing a 2 ft/sq area of both (Sherwin-Williams brand) as well as the Rust-o-Leum brand on the test subject below. An unrestored 1958 F100 that runs and drives perfect.
Should look good in the old Sefoam green and white.

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http://www.vansicklepaint.com/mntequip.htm

How's this compare to tremclad? It is available at Orscheln Farm and home stores in my area.

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i think we should stop comparing other paints, and focus on the tequnique. most enamels will be the same or similar in the way the paint lays, cures, and finishes. so we could spend all day looking for different paints and posting "how does this paint look". if your truly interested in the process and want to paint using this system, then please, buy some of the paint, and post your results here and you tell us!!!! work with what's available to you in your location, take EXIT1965, and 38 COUPE, they have both expiremented with the process and have gone thru the steps, and i'm sure when they find a different paint they will let us know what works. there are hundereds of brands of paints, however the tequnique i assume will be the same if not simmilar for all.

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i think we should stop comparing other paints, and focus on the tequnique. most enamels will be the same or similar in the way the paint lays, cures, and finishes. so we could spend all day looking for different paints and posting "how does this paint look". if your truly interested in the process and want to paint using this system, then please, buy some of the paint, and post your results here and you tell us!!!! work with what's available to you in your location, take EXIT1965, and 38 COUPE, they have both expiremented with the process and have gone thru the steps, and i'm sure when they find a different paint they will let us know what works. there are hundereds of brands of paints, however the tequnique i assume will be the same if not simmilar for all.

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I think it would be interesting to try a different kind of paint entirely - the alkyd based enamels (which Ive read means the same as "oil based") seem to have the same stuff in them. It would be nice to experiment with the super industrial, non California legal stuff

One worthwhile test might be to do 8, 10 or 12 layers instead of just 6. Maybe the "deepness" of the shine has to do with how thick the paint is? I do notice on the test areas that I've done that the gloss left behind by the rustoleum is fairly nice looking, except it's not very smooth, so it's almost like you must wetsand or its not going to look nice. People who have complained that the gloss of rustoleum goes away are probably talking about that gloss left behind on the rustoleum, and haven't wetsanded or polished the paint.


While I'm at it, if I buy a few quarts of the professional rustoleum and combine them in a 1 gallon container (to get a consistent color mixture for the whole car), will the paint last for a few months while I do different parts of the car?