anyone use this paint method on a 600 hp car that wants to twist itself in half ? wonder if the paint will stick ?

Now at the 8th page for me im wayy confused on what to use and what not to use. I just want a good looking primer paint job. Not primer looking because ill screw that up Me & Paint do NOT get along

I returned that primer at lowes, im considering going and getting it again and just trying it before i just spray bomb the whole thing primer and have those little lines in it. (any method of sanding remove those lines btw?)

This guy is on my favorite sellers list.

http://stores.ebay.com/Auto-Paint

Post deleted by Ira

Ok, how about this for the US version?
"Special polyamide-modified alkyd for maximum performance."

http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=219&SBL=2

The Dunes Tan looks real close to my Rampage color.

Scratch that vendor!

This one is even cheaper!

http://dragosupply.com/drago/servlet/CyberVendor/category/G4501296/catalog/group.jsp/

Valspar makes House Of Kolor paints? Neato...

They also make some powder coatings.

But that's not what we're talking about here. The stuff I saw at Lowe's only seemed to come in 29-oz cans, clear and pastel bases that NEEDED tinting. I can't find it on Lowe's web site, but it was called "Valspar Anti-Rust Oil Based Enamel". OK, upon Googling, I found this... Looks like they have an industrial line that comes in "many colors" in gallon quantities. I wonder what it takes to get that stuff?

Clair

Here's a polyurethane Rust-oleum that uses a hardener. Since it's catalyzed, I wonder if you could roll it on full-strength and wet-sand and buff after just one or two coats?

Post deleted by Ira

I just got off the phone with a local Kelly Moore that carries the industrial line of Rustoleum (they are the only KM in Sacramento that carries that line).

edited: they only sell water based stuff in CA now, which from a bit of googling I found is probably not going to work well.

Looks like it will be rustoleum "professional" from lowes..

It may not just be California either. I tried to get some oil based semi gloss paint for the trim in my house from Lowe's and the paint gal said they are getting rid of all their oil based stuff. Strangely enough it is Olympic Fasthide Alkyd based semi-gloss enamel. Went on and acts just like the Porter oil based enamel we were using but I think the water based stuff is what everyone is going to. Exit1965 did the guy say they could not even get the professional rustoleum anymore. I still think that is our best bet in the states.
Todd

Sorry didn't see your last line there!

I am sort of ignorant when it comes to automotive paint, so I was wondering something. Is regular auto paint, PPG, etc., oil-based or alkyd based? Thanks all for some great info. Being on a very tight budget, I am a poor school teacher, this has really given me hope of ever getting my Dart painted. As you can see from the pic, primer seems to be my favorite color right now. My wife is from Nova Scotia, so maybe I can get her mom and dad to send me a gallon of Tremclad. My birthday is coming up. Hmmm........Matt

there does appear to be this stuff which is all US legal apparently:
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=495&SBL=2

the guy didn't mention it so i'll have to ask him about it specifically.

Pretty ignorant on auto paint here as well. I just did a search on the net and came up with this brief history. As you can see alkyd enamels are actually mentioned but from the 1930's!!


Synthetic Enamel: In the mid 1930's, a new and completely different type of paint was developed, the alkyd or synthetic enamels. It proved to have superior qualities in film strength, adhesion, luster, flexibility and durability over all previous paints. The resin base was developed from the reaction between phthalic anhydride and glycerin, with gums, oils and plasticizers added during the manufacturing process a drying oil such as linseed, a polyhydric alcohol, such as glycerine, and a dibasic acid, such as Phthalic Anhydride. It dries by solvent evaporation, like the lacquer paints, but the resin remains soft and sticky when no solvents are present. It cures to a hard finish by absorption of oxygen from the air. The curing process can be accelerated by heat, and several methods of baking enamel were developed. Unlike lacquer, when dry, it needs no polishing to produce a high luster finish. Acrylic Lacquer: As time passed, chemists developed a substitute for nitrocellulose lacquer, using an acrylic resin as a base. The resins used in acrylic lacquer tend to be slightly brittle. This deficiency is overcome by the use of a plasticizer ( a liquid that is a solvent for these resins and softens them slightly). A cellulosic resin is any resin derived from cellulose (pure cotton). Acrylic lacquer was used extensively by General Motors. Acrylic Enamel: During the late 1960's and early 1970's, technology brought on the development of acrylic enamel, which was harder and more durable. Chemically, it is a cousin to synthetic enamel, but is modified with acrylic resin, and is not soft and sticky with no solvents present. It cures further with the absorption of oxygen from the air. Unlike the lacquers, which remain soluble in solvents, the enamel family is insoluble in solvent when cured. An acrylic resin is chemically any polymer whose basic monomers are chemical derivatives of acrylic acid. Polyurethane Enamel: In the mid 1970's, polyurethane enamel was developed to withstand the severe stress of high speed airplane surfaces, which are subject to rapid temperature changes and flexing. This paint was much more durable than the acrylic enamels. Acrylic Urethane Enamel: Acrylic urethane enamels were developed to withstand environmental elements, such as acid rain and ultra violet rays. It is the most durable paint to date.

Don't see anything about oil based enamel but doesn't mean it is not one of these with a different name. Anyway acrylic enamel and urethane enamel are what you can buy cheap on ebay and spray yourself as a single stage paint.
Todd

This is a really interesting post.......I've been loosely following this thing since it started.

The last post sparked my chemistry side (what I do for a living) so I felt like its time for me to add some additional complexity to the discussion!!! Haha.

Alkyds as noted in the last post are old as the hills chemistry. Here's my .02 worth: Alkyds have free hydroxyl groups, which offer the possibility of crosslinking them using IPDI and HDI (Isophorone Diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate) trimer(s), these isocyanates are usually used in most modern 2k clears urethane along with acrylic polyols as the main resin.

Problem is... one has to have an idea of how much isocyanate to add to the alkyd. Unless you can get a precise recommendation from the alkyd maker on how much of these isocyanates to add, I dont suggest doing this. There is a chemical balance that should be obeyed called stochiometry, this is the balance between the isocyanate and the free hydroxyls in the paint. Unless you match these fairly closely you can create alot of problems, bubbling peeling etc. However, if you are successful you will have created a urethane modified alkyd car paint. Something that is commonly used in 3rd world car repair, either that or your local Earl Scheibs..haha. Anyway keep in mind that if you do add isocyanates to your paint, the pot life (or application time before hardening) will be reduced to several hours regardless of whether the paint is closed can or open.

What will really annoy everyone about car paint (or any paint for that matter) is how cheap the raw materials are, and how bad the public gets gouged. Don't ask.

I thought back, and I thought I could have done enough wrong with my first test to have my paint turn out as easily scratchable as it was. On my test area, I preped the surface with 150 then dusted with a rag, and I used water to clean the foam roller (not a good idea, and not fun). It could be I had dust left on the surface, and/or got some water mixed in with the paint mixture as I applied it (since I reused a roller that had some water hiding in it).

so I'm trying it again using the same stuff, but this time I'm using only mineral spirits to clean the roller, and I sanded the surface with 80, then 240, then cleaned it with mineral spirits and a rag and let it dry.

So I've just applied the first coat..and I'll scratch test each coat until I'm done.

I wonder how the "clear" rustoleum would do, if applied full strength (or thinned?) over a 6 coats of thinned color (+ wetsanding). It might help a bit with gloss or add to scratch resistance.

Has anyone looked into the possiblity of ordering the Tremclad from Canada? Seems to me that is the obvious solution. I mentioned it to my local paint guy, he suggested Canadian paint would not be importable, high VOC's or something. Could be he was just "playing smart".

next time I go see my bro in buffalo, I might have to take a ride. Think they would hassle me at the border for a gallon of paint?