oh sure.......NOW you wanna save it

That did turn out kinda nice I would hold off on any chip test quite yet, as being an enamel it will take it awhile to dry to it's hardest potential, and I'm thinking you want the "best case" type of experiment.

Way to go Charger, this has been a great info thread. I have finished the 6th coat on my test piece an old metal dash,from a 1948 Dodge Coupe. It is silky smooth and when you wipe the spirits over what a great look to it, super shiny and smo oth like glass. Unfortunately the only thing I have is Turtle Wax and not Polishing compound. This unfortunately will not bring back the shine, so I wiped it off with the spirits again. Will only the polishing compound bring back the shine. I can tell this will look awesome if I can get back the shine...........Take it easy 48 coupe

Hey Martin,
You make it sound pretty easy, I'll have to get you to come over and do my T/A!
lol
your buddy,
Karl

Ok well, a LOT was covered in this thread. There has bound to be something I missed. For now, I'd just like to get my Duster primered. I went to Lowe's and boughta small can of Rustoleum grey primer to get me started, 4" rounded ended rollers, some sand paper, and some mineral spirits.

I may try and attempt to do the trunk lid or something tomorrow. Can you please give me the break-down of what i need to do to get a nice even coat on there.

How much thinner to the paint? How much pressure on the roller? How much paint on the roller/coat?

Thanks in advance, I may get started as soon as tomorrow

What does everyone think of this el-cheapo HVLP setup harbor freight sells for $99? Think it'd make short work of a car, or crap out one panel at a time?
HVLP Help.

roll forward, then back to take care of any bubbles, Goody. Overlap slightly and head the same direction. Use a brush in hard to roller areas, then roll up to meet the brushed areas. That's about all you keed to know. So easy a monkey could do it.

I'm going to try this on an old Satellite hood tomorrow afternoon, with both black (very tough color!) and yellow (if I can find it at Home Depot).

And to think I was just about ready to shell out $5,000 for paint...

I LOVE showing off these pics. Lita did this for $35 with the Rustoleum flat enamel. One coat in direct sunlight!



Been almost a year and still looks great.

quick q on the thining the paint, is it best to pour it into the little roller paint holster thing and adding some thinner. Roughly how thin? very watery? or

Now just so everyone understands Goody is just starting with primer. I would think the thinning and method may be a little different for that.
Goody what is your goal with this car right now. Just to get some primer on it so it is one color and won't rust or are you going after a nice smooth surface like Exit1965 got.
If you want smooth and something that is going to last for awhile you need to go get some actual enamel like Primerduster and I used. The flat enamel ends up coming out looking like primer but is going to actually give you some water resistance/durability. Also I don't know about types of primer but that kind you got looks wrong to me. It may still work but just by the name it looks wrong.
If you are not going for that buffed out smooth surface just do your sanding and scuffing with scotch brite pads, maybe use a can of the spray primer for now to hide the steel and then get a gallon of the flat enamel and do the whole car when you are ready.
Todd

guys, i can honestly 100% say your wasting your time with primer, you really don't need to use it at all with this paint, your only creating more work, and it is totally unnessessary. plus i've never used primer with this paint so it is uncharted teritory. i'll repeat myself and quote off the can "you can paint over bare metal, rusted metal, wood, fiberglass, dogs, cats, some specious of exotic african birds, gerbils, hamsters, blankets....(only a few animals were harmed testing this product!!!)

I was outside looking at the test area in various angles and decided to try an impromptu scratch test using my fingernail.



It was pretty easy to scrape the paint off using my thumbnail. A bit too easy if you ask me. I can't imagine how it would take a door slamming into it or a rock hitting it. I'm not sure what the problem is. Lowes sells the "professional" line in an almond color.. I'll have to try that. Granted if nothing hard comes in contact with it, it would be fine, but to think that a fingernail can scrape it off is a bit unnerving.

just did some more scratching, and it scrapes away from bare metal, old paint, and rattlecan primer. It scrapes all the way to the old surface; I am curious if using their primer underneath it would help this. Or maybe more coats of this thinned enamel.. I think this is an adherence problem though.

that's wierd, but i have to say you might want to wait a bit and let it dry really good, it does tend to "harden" over time, but i can say that i can't even scratch a small spec off my tire!!! perhaps you wetsanded too fine between coats? maybe when you prepped the pannel it was also too fine/smooth? how many layers are you scratching off? i find my paint on both cars very scratch resistant. there's no way i could scratch the paint with my finger nail no matter how hard i try (and i just did on the bottom of the trunk lid!!) but then again i can't comment on how it scratches off after reciently painting.

I just laid down the first two coats on my Satellite hood. Goes on pretty smoothly -- I think I'm a bit watery on the consistency, but overall, you can see how this can work.

I'm using Rustoleum "Safety Yellow" (which is pretty close to GY3 if you ask me), and it's "interesting." We'll see in the next few hours.