The driver's door window switch in my 67 GTX malfunctioned. Everything works except drivers window up. The switch is held together by 4 crimps in what looks like a pretty thick pot metal casting. I'm concerned that I might wreck it taking it apart.
I'm seeking advice on repairing it, or a source for a replacement, or a pro to send it to.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Joel

Spray Deoxit into it.....This stuff is electronics contact cleaner and works great on window switches w/o taking them apart....I get it from parts express.com

Thanks, I'll try it. But it feels like something mechanical has failed. It is way easier to move the switch in the direction that doesn't work.

i have taken switches like that apart before, and although care must be taken, it can be successfully accomplished. if a tab or ear is broken off in the process, many times you can use a chisel to "stake" a couple areas to hold it together upon reassembly. what you will find inside depends on how the switch is designed to work. without seeing the guts, i can't speculate a repair. sometimes, you can gut a "single" switch for parts.

Open up the crimps and get in there. Springs break or get weak. Iirc you can rob them off the newer switches. Take patience and be careful. Do it in a clean area, the spring is just a bent wire that can drop when disassembling.

Not a complicated device.

There's a guy in Cali that repairs power window switches.

Major issue is oxidized contacts..
EZ fix, take the switch apart and burnish the contacts..

Just my $0.02...

I have been meaning to see if there was interest in having me put up a post on how to repair these but haven't as yet. So this will be a condensed version of what I have intended to do.

Here is how they come apart…… This is a '71 style but I believe they are the same guts in '67, just different touch pads or paddles.

Gently bend the crimped tabs out. (like you said) Not too far as they need to be bent back in when done. They only have so much bend to them before they break.




Once all the tabs are bent out straight enough to allow the plastic (I think it may be more of a bakelite type material. much like the material distributor caps are made of.) you will need to turn over the switch and release the rockers from the back as they are captive in the front bezel.



What you are looking to do here is push the sides of the rocker switch in to release them from the body (or back) This can get a little tricky to get them all at the same time on a 4 gang switch! A little upward pressure will keep the unfastened ones from refastening.



If your switch has suddenly failed and feels a little loose one way or the other, it is most likely that the back of the rocker that pushes the contacts has cracked. If the piece is still in there, you should be able to epoxy it back together. If not, find some single gang switches to scavenge parts from.



The pot metal portion of the rocker is attached to the plastic portion by two studs of the pot metal face passing through holes in the plastic and then being peened or flared to keep them on. What I do is, with a small drill (3/32"), remove the flared end of the pot metal so they can be separated from one another.


SKIP AHEAD….. THE REST OF IMAGES IN THIS POST DIDN'T WORK. THEY ARE CONTINUED AHEAD. SORRY!














[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...2xuxj.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...swou2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...kdovk.jpg[/img]

Once apart, you can repair the piece with epoxy. I used Devcon 2 ton epoxy and have found it to be very strong for the repair.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...dsxhp.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...z0o9l.jpg[/img]

Epoxy the pieces back together and let cure fully before next step.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...nclqq.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...hfm5e.jpg[/img]

After fully cured, redrill the hole with the same 3/32" bit.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...1zohq.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...dvkfa.jpg[/img]

Now for reassembly, take the rocker front, lay it face down.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...l13lp.jpg[/img]

Put the bezel over it the way it will be positioned when done.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...zpsm9.jpg[/img]

Put the repaired plastic contact pusher back on the pot metal pins.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...rvixo.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...rucif.jpg[/img]

Put a couple more dabs of epoxy on the pins to hold the pieces together again.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...xvv7b.jpg[/img]

Then reassemble.
Done!



I like to clean things up inside while its apart…..
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...jra3c.jpg[/img]

You'll see some fine little wires in the body. These are the only "springs" you'll find in these switches. I'm not sure what others are referring to as "springs" These don't really break. They may be a little bent but that isn't terrible.

[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...7ri6x.jpg[/img]

This picture shows the wire springs I am referring to. It is sticking to the end of the screwdriver that I have slightly magnetized.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...wg1jv.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...ye0gw.jpg[/img]

Remove them all before cleaning as they could easily get lost and the switches won't return to center as well.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...pslne.jpg[/img]


I roll them on some emery to clean them up, but its not really necessary.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...robfv.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...ge6n4.jpg[/img]

Since the springs are out, now is the time to clean up the contacts and body. I have found ketchup is effective to clean the copper and points pretty well.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...ytt8f.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...k6luh.jpg[/img]

A little on the back certainly won't hurt either…..
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...n0lob.jpg[/img]

Blow everything out to dry and even set in the sun to bake a little to be certain its good and dry.
I think you'll see it's much cleaner. Reinstall the little wire springs…Again, a slightly magnetized screwdriver works well for this. If it's too strongly magnetized, you'll have a tough time getting them to stay in the switch while you pull away the screwdriver.
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...56vde.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/...v063k.jpg[/img]

I guess I should've included the cleaning part before the "reassemble" and "done" part above.
Sorry about that!
I hope this may help you fix your switch

Uh-oh! I don't know what happened there! Only ten photos showed up, the rest don't seem to work even when I click on the link.

OK, FIXED AHEAD…..

71 Charger R/T.thanks for the detailed photos and info.

You are very welcome Kilroy! Sorry for the mess-up of the photos! hopefully I can fix em'

I'll try to fix this and continue where the post left off (maybe only 10 pics at a time?) Lets try this again…….


The pot metal portion of the rocker is attached to the plastic portion by two studs of the pot metal face passing through holes in the plastic and then being peened or flared to keep them on. What I do is, with a small drill (3/32"), remove the flared end of the pot metal so they can be separated from one another.






Once apart, you can repair the piece with epoxy. I used Devcon 2 ton epoxy and have found it to be very strong for the repair.



Epoxy the pieces back together and let cure fully before next step.



After fully cured, redrill the hole with the same 3/32" bit.



I'll continue in next post. Hopefully this is working……...

Looks like it's working! I'll continue…..


Now for reassembly (of the rocker and bezel), take the rocker front, lay it face down.


Put the bezel over it the way it will be positioned when together.



Put the repaired plastic contact pusher back on the pot metal pins.



Put a couple more dabs of epoxy on the pins to hold the pieces together again.


Before putting it back together, I like to clean things up inside while its apart…..


You'll see some fine little wires in the body. These are the only "springs" you'll find in these switches. These don't really break. They may be a little bent but that isn't terrible.


This picture shows the wire springs I am referring to. It is sticking to the end of the screwdriver that I have slightly magnetized.



Remove them all before cleaning as they could easily get lost and without them the switches won't return to center at all or as well. Two per switch, one on each side of the rocker.

Continued……




I roll the spring wires on some emery to clean them up, but its not really necessary.




Since the springs are out, now is the time to clean up the contacts and body. I have found ketchup is effective to clean the copper and points pretty well.


Use your wife's toothbrush for this part. Unless you like the taste of ketchup and oxidized copper! OUCH! (I was just kidding honey!)


A little on the back plug contact surfaces certainly won't hurt either…..



Wash and blow everything out to dry real good. Even set in the sun to bake a little. Just be certain its good and dry.
I think you'll see it's much cleaner. Reinstall the little wire springs…Again, a slightly magnetized screwdriver works well for this. If it's too strongly magnetized, you'll have a tough time getting them to stay in the switch while you pull away the screwdriver.




Now put the bezel and rockers back on the body and push together. The rockers will snap back into body. Hold it tightly together while you bend the tabs back in to hold it together and Viola' you're done!

Hope this helps someone…..

WOW! Nice tech!

Thank you!
I was hoping this wouldn't be considered a "highjack"
Just trying to help.

You can swipe your old lady's emery board and trim it to fit in order to clean up really bad contacts.

Thanks for all info and pics!
My 1967 switches are a bit different. @o take it apart, there is 2 tabs and 2 crimps. My concern is getting it open and then resealed without wrecking it.

Sorry, I've never done the '67 style but I'm betting the insides are exactly the same once it's apart. It looks like the bezel would come off easier as it may not hold the rockers captive. I would carefully bend the two tabs out a little ways and see if that gives you enough room to pull it apart without undoing the crimps on the other side.
There's really nothing "sealing" these. There are gaps between the rockers and bezel and also there are holes in the back on the edges as you can see. If worse comes to worse and the tabs were to break, you could effectively epoxy it back together in place of the metal tabs. (no one would see the epoxied back once it's back in place.) I'd give it a shot……. You have to get in there to fix that broken finger on the rocker.

Looks like if the "tabs" broke he could peen it over in another area. Doesn't appear to be any tabs to speak anyway.

There are two tabs on what appears to be the bottom of the switch. The top has the two crimps in the solid rail.