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69Chargeryeehaa here is my situation. I have been sidetracked from working on my '73 barracuda project by a '65 F-100 stepside pickup I picked up real cheap (I kick myself for getting side tracked by this project and just want to get it completed and out of the way...) I have completed sand blasting the truck and welding in patch panels. This weekend I planned on doing my first spraying by applying a coat of epoxy primer then starting the filler, sanding, primer, etc. work until I had it ready for paint. I happen to have a can of the Rustoleum rusty metal primer at home which I have never openned and consider using on the floor boards. I have been told to apply epoxy primer first then body filler and the rest of the body work. I want to give this method a try on this truck. Should I just give it a roll-on coat of primer, then do the body work then give this method a try or do you recommend putting filler directly over the bare metal and I believe you said to apply this paint directly over filler? Thanks!

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i did'nt use any primer, just did the repairs and bodywork using bondo, but i did'nt have and major rust to speak of, just dents, scratchs, and chips mostly. i just put bondo right over bare metal, then followed by just the paint, that's it. as long as no water gets in from behind then it should be ok. if you can access the back of the pannel you're repairing then spray some undercoating, i use the professional "rubberized" undercoat (not the ashfault stuff) and it's never let me down, that stuff is awesome and is even paintable after your done. Make sure you have all the "cancer" out of the metal and then go a little more to get rid of any "oxidized" metal so rust does'nt start. Keep in mind that the rust paint is formulated to go over BARE and RUSTED METAL, so like i said before if you can't sleep at night because u did'nt use primer or epoxy sealer then do it, but it's just a waste of time in my opinion. The 74 orange beetle was done 6 yrs ago, goes in the rain, i've put 35,000mi on the car and i have no issues with any rust at all, and there is a little bondo on it but no holes before paint. as for getting it smooth i would just use a fine grain bondo, try to keep the layers down, the thinner the better, just enough to make it straight, and block sand the bondo to get it arrow straight, then go straight to paint, hope that helps....

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I'm a seasoned veteran of these roller jobs before using Tremclad and the technique just like he said. Always came out great!!! Especially when you live in an apt complex and can't make too much of a stink in the building. It do work good!

One note though where I have to disagree... I went to repaint one of my cars that were rollered in Tremclad, this was years ago too, and when I sanded the tremclad, it found it clogged the sandpaper up bad and found it very gummy...(rust paint never really hardens, and thats why it rolls out so smooth) maybe the paint has improved over the years but my experience is that if you ever decide to repaint it in a proper automotive paint then you'll have to strip the car down...

I have used the Duplicolor to spray too, that worked awesome as well...

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did you use mineral spririts to thin down the paint? i think that is the key to get the paint to "harden" when i first tried this paint 12 years ago i did notice that it never really got hard, but i can say that all the other jobs i did starting with my 74 orange beetle i used mineral spirits to thin the paint, that seemed to be the trick, weather it was over-night or a year later the paint reached the right "hardness" the mineral spirits seemed to "flash" the paint, much like a reducer would on a acrylic enamel. i have painted a car over with the rust paint and had macco to a cheepy paint job that was a single stage, they had no issues to sand the paint, but i do know what you're describing, that happened to me when i did'nt use mineral spirits as a reducer. letterally overnight it is completely dry and i wetsand the next day.

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I'm not trying to steal this thread but have you ever used the Car Skin product for polishing enamel. I'm from NC and haven't been able to find the product for over 10 years, if was the best and I hope it is still being made. We have been using Rustoleum paint for years and I can say it will last 6 years without any maintenance and if I could find some Car Skin to polish the old paint I would bet it would shine like new. All the old cars were painted with enamel years ago except for those that could afford laquer. I would rather use enamel over any of the plastic based products being sold today but then I'm old and like the look of enamel's warmth moreso that the clearcoat plastic glitter stuff.

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i have a shelf full of polishing compounds, mothers, mequires, ect....know what works the best? the cheapest one!!! turtle wax polishing compound in the white paste, $3, polish ANY enamel with a electric random orbit polisher and you'll be impressed......... and just a tip if you try it keep the buffing bonnet WET, have a spray bottle full of water and spray it on the bonnet each time u load up the polish paste, be very generous with both.

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I looked at the Rustoleum site, and they had a clear product as well. Rustoleum 7701 is the clear stuff.

Just curious.

Thanks. Great knowledge here.

Greg

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i just tried it on 1/2 of a hood and i must not have it thinned enough because it's not laying down well and has little bubbles in it. do you have any kind of a paint/mineral spirits ratio to start with?

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to answer your question, no lol, anyways, i'm wondering if you had the paint shaken? as a rule of thumb you NEVER shake enamel unless you want bubbles in the paint for a week, allways stir the paint. seccondly, all i can recomend is to thin it down with the mineral spirits until it is just a bit thicker than water, so it runs off a brush or whatever just a bit thicker than water, you could allways go a bit thicker, test it out and thin it until you get the right thickness. as for the bubbles, you could also make sure you really stired the paint and mixed it well, if u see bubbles in the paint in you pan then mix more until there is no bubbles, if there's still bubbles in the paint when u mixed it really well then get some paper towel and "skim" the surface to get rid of the bubbles. if you get bubbles when your painting your pushing down on the roller too hard, lighten it up a bit, let the paint sit for 1 minute after you've spread it out nice, then just run the roller over the area VERY gently using only the weight of the roller, then turn around, have a smoke after you've done the pannel, and when your done your smoke, turn around and you'll see it has "self leveled" before your eyes. if your doing a vertical section just apply a tiny amount of pressure as if it were the weight alone of the roller. it's really tricky to do, i could lay it down perfectly level but i have done it alot, you have to "read" the paint, listen carefully, it will tell you what to to . hope this helps.