wheel choice is important

Stance counts

Wow! Thanks for all the pics!! That paint job on that first picture that Ron posted is an exact duplicate of a '40 Ford model kit I build a year or so ago!

No gassers, I built a '52 Plymouth Business Coupe gasser a few years back, I'm not going that route again. I already have a solid front axle truck that rides like a truck.

I'm figuring something that looks like a lowered stocker on the outside.

I'd like to run a small block Chrysler or slant six with true dual pipes. I've had a ton of fun for the money with slant six powered cars.

I guess I'll do my research on front clips and keep an eye out for a stock frame for now.

Thanks again guys!

Congratulations. Looks like one heck of a deal to me.

I'd build a nice driving car that looks like an old car.

Somebody took the hardest step already....getting the nerve to cut a car.

Find a modern chassis that has the right track widths and wheelbase (small or midsize truck?) and make everything else fit it.

If you have the tools/skills, it's just sheetmetal and your desire.

I agree bohmer. I gorgeous car ruined with low profile tires and tall wheels. I hate the look and just don't understand why so many guys do that. The 2 go together about as well as oil and water!

and the wheel choice one...why????? Those wheels look horrendous on that thing.

Too bad you arent closer I could fix you up with a sedan frame hood etc.My kid has a 41 he is parting.Rocky

I agree with Ron, either 2" x 4" tube with a Mustang II suspension or a Dakota clip. (both would fit well) Really would depend on how much of the original frame is left and what condition its in.

I'd probably take it off your hands for what you paid for it. You know, should it proves more then you can handle..... Gene

Well crap, go figure the frame I need is half way across the country!

Last night I spent a couple hours and bolted everything I could back onto the car.... it went so easy, it felt like car WANTED to be put back together!

Now, I've started researching this frame stuff, and I'm not sure which direction I should go.

I've read a little about the Dakota clip swap, sounds like an appealing route possibly. I'd like a little more info, especially as it applies to these cars.

Does anyone know what the front track on the '40 Dodges were originally?

I have to post a pic of the flames on the fender, I wish I had a frame simply so I could reassemble the front clip!

Nice find I agree with going traditional painted. I have a dakota frame with my 49 dodge. Not sure about the frame difference on a 1940. Check out the P15 D24 site, lots of help there.

Since you aren't starting with a good frame, I doubt you will want to clip what you have. Many of the dakota swaps involve the whole frame. Ron has shown a few here, and the big thing seems to be the front track.
I couldn't find info on the 40s, but the P15-D24 site has the 46-48s as 57" track in front, 60" track in the rear, and a WB of 117" for the Plymouths, 120" for the Dodges. They also have a parts forum I see you are already there...
I just got a part for my 47 from the Moores.
http://mooresautosalvage.com/autos.asp?make=Dodge
They treated me right.

You might try these guys
http://www.fatfenderedrelics.com/projectcars.html

And here is your donor
http://stockton.craigslist.org/cto/990469050.html

Okay guys, here's some research I've done.

Here's a Dakota clip that Poorboy on here did to a '39 Plymouth, it looks pretty good, but I was told somewhere that the rails may be spaced differently than a Dodge/Chrysler.

Here's a pic from MoparRon's webshots thing. He was shortening a Dakota chassis for use under a '46 Dodge Pickup.

I'm looking for the two measures in the picture, the frame rail width and height at the common area on the frame.

I found info on the web that the Dakota front track is 60.8 inches, and I'm not sure how that compares to a stock '40 Dodge.

Can't give you the correct numbers off the top of my head, something about old age.....

Anyway, the frame width of the Dakota from the kickout behind the front wheels to the rear axle is straight and fits just inside the original frame on the 39 plymouth at the firewall position. The Dak frame is also flat except for a raised bolt on crossmember that the front of the box mounts to (and the fuel tank mounts to) until the rear axle kickup. I have a 90 Dakota sitting outside I can get a decent measurement from tomorrow (if I remember). The Dakota frame hight also remains the same size and fits just inside the rail hight of the 39 Plymouth. (i'll measure that as well). The length of the Dakota frame from the front kick out to the part of the rear frame that kicks up to mount the box on depends on whick wheel base Dakota frame you have. That measurement may be a bit harder as my 90 is still a functioning truck. The one I mounted looked like it was made for that frame swap. I will also get the track width of my truck. Gene

I just happen to have a stripped down dakota chassis here right now for a 46 COE project.
It 38" wide and the frame is 6" tall Ron...

Cool find rabid scott!
I've got a few spare parts kicking around if you need anything.... window mechanisms, door stuff, maybe some headlight doors, I don't even know what I have...

Keep those pics coming!

Thank you for the measurements, I glad you have a Dakota frame handy, I was afraid I was going to have to wait!

Looks like the rails on mine are 6" tall, and right about where they end they are about 37". They start getting wider as they go back.

I bet a Dakota clip would be a hot setup!

Quote:

---

Cool find rabid scott!
I've got a few spare parts kicking around if you need anything....

---

Thanks for the offer, at this point I'm not sure what else I need besides a cheap Dakota and some spare time!