Post deleted by Ira

Post deleted by Ira

my concern is how to really thin the paint. i've got an autocross car i'd be willing to try this on. in any case... i am hoping for a little more scientific approach than it looks a little thicker than water. can we get 1:1 or 1:10 or 1:whatever?

does anyone think you can roll on bc/cc? who says it has to be spray only?

I'm more interested in the method. anyone can brush/roll on paint and sand it smooth.

well it just goes by "feel", theres no ratio that i could come up with because once you open the can and pour some out the next day the paint will be a bit thicker. if i had to guess i would say about 20% thinner or so? just thin enough that it does'nt run, but not too thick. keep in mind that you can allways add more paint to the mix if you go too thin. and the coats go on really really thin, that is the key, like i said before you don't really have a true non transparent base until the 3rd or 4th coat.
There is no way i would try to roll on BC/CC it would definetly not work. that paint is ment to be atomized when sprayed, and you could never thin it down to the point where it does not run and is thin enough to apply. plus it would dry too fast with the correct reducers and flash over too quick. i think it would be impossible. when u just paint and sand, you're going to be sanding too much, and the paint is hard resulting in waves in the paint unless u sand really consistently, so the key is to lay it on thin and sand as little as possible, also when the paint layer is thin and the paint is thinned properly it "self levels" it's like bondo, u mix it up and it's just in a blob, let it sit for a few minutes and it flattens out, thats just what the paint does.
hope that helps

Keep it coming 69 Chargeryeehaw.
GREAT IDEAS

also i assume this only works for solid colors. have you tried doing stripes or anything?

yes, metalics are out of the picture here, no i haven't tried doing stripes but i imagine it would be easy.

I was desribing what I have read here to one of my mechanics at work today. His dad also runs a small body shop and paints boats. He said oh yeah we do that method a lot with boats and basically described a similar method of application. Said that it sticks to boat hulls great and lasts longer than some marine epoxies. If it stands up to the crap we call water here it may hold up on a car. I am going to play with an old Duster fender this weekend if I have time and see how it works out.

Post deleted by Ira

This is definitely one of the more interesting threads I've read in a while here. You have to hand it to him, he thought outside the box, and it seems to have paid off. The photo's don't lie, but only time will tell how the paint holds up. It's true there are no guarantee's, but for the amount of time and money spent it seemed worth the effort.

High density foam rollers are pretty amazing, I use them all the time around the house on wood and metal. I refinished my fridge pictured below with a roller and POR-15 engine enamal. I think it turned out pretty great and I didn't put half the effort he put into his car. Of course it doesn't sit out in the sun or rain, but it worked.

What about when you have to paint the bulk of the car? Like the roof, pillars and rear 1/4's all at once cause they're all one piece? Doesn't the paint on the roof dry by the time you get done one side and then start on the other, or are you starting on the bottom of one side and working up across and down the other side of the car? Or does the light coats and sanding make it okay? I'm pretty much just wondering if you have any kind of a seam line on the top of the car. Lol, and I emailed a link to this thread to my brother, and he wants to do it to his rampage. It'd be a perfect candidate to try this out on, seeing as the roller job done by the previous owner is looking real bad these days.

oh and yes, i've heard of alot of people using this paint to paint fiberglass boats too, infact i painted my little sail boat with it and it's holding up great. my wife actually gave me the idea first about 12 yrs ago one day at the cottage to paint my 85 honda crx (which was white) and we painted it black, i just scuffed up the paint, and painted it with some old rust paint and those rollers my dad had in the garage. would you believe i drove that car for like 3 more years? it really looked good.

I painted my chev S-10 with John Deere yellow construction paint. Mind you i sprayed it on but it looked really good.

Just curious, what happens when you try rubbing compound? You mention its too rough. To me, it seems like an important step to eliminate from the finishing process. I know in my limited painting experience, if going from wet sanding directly to a machine glaze, the gloss would be knowhere near as deep as if I had used a rubbing compound first.

I'm going to give this a shot this weekend on my project car. In case anyone was wondering here's a pricelist from Lowes Home Improvement. This is an awesome thread.

Rustoleum $24.57 for all colors (1 gal)
Mineral Spirits $8.42
Foam brush w/ roller (4") $3.47
Foam brush refills (4") (2 pack) @ $3.47 (6 pack) @ $9.32
Flat foam brush (2").57 ea (3").74 (4").82
Roller tray (3 pack) $1.28
"Water" proof sandpaper (5 sheet pack) $2.97 all grits

I'll post before and after pics here or maybe I can get John to post some on the website. I'll also try to get dilution ratios if I remember at the time.

Shawn

the rubbing compound could be used if you really want to, i just found it much better to wetsand with 1000 grit and then go straight to polishing, that's what worked for me. the rubbing compound seemed to ball up under the polisher and make a mess and make some scratches when it balled up, i used the polishing compound on a regular bonnet on a 10" elecrtic random orbit polisher, it's only after polishing that it looks like glass, and i kept it wet with water from a spray bottle on the bonnet, forgot to mention that, but keeping it quite wet worked great.