now that's a different way of painting a car, that's for sure

a friend of mine many, many years ago painted one with a Waggnor power painter and it didn't look bad from about 3-4 feet away so i guess as long as it lays down it will work.

WOW that charger looks awesome!!!!! i'm in the same boat , can't afford an expensive paint job...please tell where the roller and paint can be found i'll buy ya keg!!!!!!!!!

Concerning this self-leveling idea. I can see that happening on the top of the car. What about the sides? Very interesting idea, I need to paint a Swinger on the cheap.

Just google Tremclad. Lots of results.

Well I went to www.rustoleum.com and they gave me a choice between the U.S. and Canada sites-
so I went Canadian and they list Tremclad, so it is a Rustoleum Canadian product.
Now who knows how this translates down in the U.S. of A.? But I'm sure with some e mails and/ or toll free number research w/ the rustoleum company, this can be determined!

i did the web search and here's a website, i emailed for application procedures, tools needed and availability, when i hear back i'll post my findings but see what you can come up with.

Rpm international inc. i believe is the manufacturer.

oh and here's a link from rustoleum.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=548&SBL=5

That Charger looks great. I want to try that. I have just the car in mind too. You have a PM

Good question from Okie Swinger about the "leveling" on the sides- more prone to dripping?
(I think I saw the Okie Swinger in "Grapes of Wrath" or was that a Deuce Coupe?)

That job on your charer looks great. I've always kinda thought tremclad would work on a car, but I've never tried it. Could you tell me which grits of sandpaper you were using after each coat? I know my brother would love to do his rampage, and he doesn't have much money so this would be a great alternative. And who knows, if it comes out good enough, I may even do it on one of my cars.

I wonder how using Rustoleum spray would be then wet sand vs. doing the roller. Maybe even use their clear coat. All this is really interesting..I wanted to make my Coronet a nice 318 beater car and this may be the way to do it.

not only a question about "self leveling" on the sides, but what about block sanding? how do you prevent "waves" in your paint? wet sand it with a block?

guys all i have to tell you is that i first painted a 85 honda crx at my cottage in 1 day, i had no money, i did like 3 coats with no sanding and it looked great, i should scan that old pic and show you!!!. The job only looks as good as the time and effort that you put into it. the paint is extreemly durable, think about it, it's used to paint over rusted metal on things like tractors, metal railings, ect... and stand the elements. it is formulated to do just that. the tequnique is critical, u have to have a "feel" for how much to thin the paint and u have to use mineral spirits, not paint thinner like varsol. I could not even imagine how well it would turn out if you sprayed it with a HVLP gun and wet sanded and polished. It does "self Level" on the sides just as it does on the flat level surfaces. Like i said before it is critical on how you thin the paint and how you apply it. i did the charger in about 3 days. i got sick of going to body shops and them telling me either they don't do classic cars and if they did want to do the car i need at least $5000 even though the car was stripped and prepped!!!! the auto painting industry is in my opinion a total rip off so if you want it done right and cheep, do it yourself!!! when the paint is thinned your barley putting on any paint with each coat, so you really need to do about 6 coats to get enough of a base so you can wet sand and polish. it took me a long time to figure out what steps to take to get awesome results. my 74 bug looks awesome even after 6 years the paint is still mint. looks like the day i did it. that paint dries FAST, so literally you can wetsand overnight. Keep in mind i know a little about painting, i've shoot a few cars with single stage enamel with professional results, but it's expensive and tedious. I used duplicolor paint, primer, reducer and primer sealer on this car:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00194.jpg
it looked like this before paint:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture1.jpg
that car was painted midnight metalic blue, and flips awesome in the sun. a very hard color to do cause it's almost black and shows every imperfection. but as you can see in the pic it came out awesome. but the materials alone (paint, reducer, primer, primer sealer) cost about $250 CDN, which was alot, never mind the work.
the "tremclad" paint is really a awesome alternetive, since your rollering it on there's no dust and you get a really clean paint job if you do it in your garage, where if you spray theres a battle with dust.
when i painted with the Tremclad i just use the paint, no primer, nothing, just the paint, right over bondo. like i mentioned before after wetsanding use a random orbit polisher and the cheapest POLISHING COMPOUND made by turtle wax, it comes in a paste in a small round flat container and it's white, allmost looks like hand cream and smells good too!!! I find that after thinning the paint with mineral spirits the paint "flashes" or dries really quickly, and after a overnight period it is completely dry, unlike automotive paint which takes up to 6 months to fully "cure" so litterally the next day you can sand, buff, polish, and wax the paint. on the charger the paint looks really good, i did not take a huge amount of time to perfect it because i really really wanted to drive it!!!. in the spring i plan on wetsanding and polishing it more, but yes it looks like the pics, really good. considering that it cost me about $50 i love it and i'm not paranoid about juicing it on a dirt road and going sideways worring about my precious paint job, i drive the car, hard and alot, after all is'nt that what they're made for? for $50 and a few days of work i can paint it again in a few years!!!! If your not good with your hands, and not a real detail person let someone else paint your car cause it can get ugly really fast!!!! if i had a shop, made a little paint booth and sprayed this stuff on and wetsanded and polished it, i'm sure i could paint show quality cars with $30 worth of paint. keep in mind this paint is really good, like i said bofore i bought a can 3 yrs later to repaint a fender on my 74 beatle and it was dead on for color match, that must tell you about the quality of the paint, i'd give you $100 if you could tell me which fender i painted on this car in person, and its' right out of the can:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00164.jpg
keep in mind that you must still prep the car as you would with any other paint job, prepping is all the work and reflects the overall result.
i did not block sand the car just wetsand progressivly finer paper by HAND, no machine, no block nothing. using any "block" to sand i found the paper got dirty fast and got all plugged up, so do it by hand and keep it really wet, using a spray bottle in one hand and a clean bucket of water and a shammy (dollar store!!!)to clean it off to see how it looks. i prepped the car with 80, then 100, then 200, finished with a 400, did all my body work, and painted. after 2 coats (about 4hrs work for the whole car) i wetsanded with a 600, then did 2 more coats, wetsand with 800, 2 more coats and sand with a 1000-1500 and polish, followed by wax, done......

I wonder how well it would look if you did this roller method, then followed up by shooting a coat of clear over top of it.

i probally would say it would turn out very nice. but the workability of the paint would end there, besides the paint buffs to mirror so i see no need for a clear coat. they have a clear coat in the tremclad brand made for the paint but i don't think it's nescessary. i reciently buffed out a huge scratch when a guy tried to jump me at a drive thru atm (long story!!!) and i florred it ran over his feet turning tires, and pinned him between the wall and my car. the whole rear quarter had a really bad scuff, maybe it was his teeth and the buttons on his jacket, anyways it buffed right out, with clear it would be hard to do that. so i would say there's no need for clear unless you really want a show car finish. thing i like about this paint ALOT is that there's no need for primer, primer sealer, ect.. it really simplifies the process. shooting a base clear or single stage acrylic enamel is a pain, u have "windows" to shoot each coat, and putting the primer sealer on, you have to shoot color within 30 mins or 15 days, man what if something goes wrong? lol

one more pointer, when u wet sand the final coat, the paint looks flat, like velvet, if you take a rag soaked with mineral spirits and whipe a spot down that you just sanded, that's what it will look like buffed. if you buff and decide to paint again clean the area with mineral spirts so that and residue from the polishing compound is removed or the paint won't stick. otherwise i have to say the paint is really good, i had a rock hit my hood so hard it sounded like someone thru a golfball at my car really hard, i did'nt even want to look, but there was no chip, just bit of dust at the impact sight. that paint is really good stuff. i'm sure if it was labeled as a auto paint it would cost $200 a can, so keep it quiet shhhhhhh!!!!

how warm does it have to be to paint?

What a cool idea. No paint booth, no overspray, easy masking, work at your own pace, REALLY inexpensive and you get tell all your friends you did it with a roller. Does the paint application have temperature requirements? Have you used it in door jambs as well? I'm saving this thread for sure.

I think I'll paint the Fury with the blue on this page!

Rustoleum paint

I think that page is for rattle-cans. Here's the brush-on page.