It's the one in my 604 Predator Cab. The stroke is 4.625.

Defintely go with a centercounter weight crank if the budget allows. They can be WAY lighter also if budget allows. If you have an interference problem then as suggest notch the bores, it is done al the time. 900 with an MC head should be pretty easy. Honestly a set of originals will get that done as well.

Can you expand on this with some general specs? Not doubting, just curious and am wondering.

We did a b1 Original motor last year that made peak power at 7000, would not call that spinning it to the moon by any means. I know Jess on here ran a 500" B1 stock block deal in his Dart for years and never spun it hard either. I also have a B1 original head deal here that I have as a spare that made peak at 7200 at 1004 HP.

What? Bore notching or rpms?...........If you are referring to rpms, for some reason it has become accepted that large heads require big rpm to work and that simply isn't the case. It's all about getting the cam and events right.

The 446 I had in my GTX had B-1 MCs. That motor ran great, made good power and never saw 8000 rpm

What cam duration , lift and lsa worked well in the smaller motors? Care to share?

What kind of hp were you making? I've just always thought to get the most hp potentialout of a head you can (Max hp deal, what I'm assuming the OP is after) it needs, for lack of a better term, to be "worked" to a certain point, there's a formula that incorporates cross section, cu in, and rpm (preaching to the choir here). For a given cross section and displacement, you'll need to turn x rpm to get max hp, that's all I was getting at. I'm sure the formula is a generalization as well. Not doubting you can't get big hp with mild displacement without having to spin it to the moon, but to get max hp wouldn't you have to buzz it pretty hard?

What ci was the spare motor

Same motor in the valiant you had ?

Good Lawd that is purty!

Man, that crankshaft is artwork! I can get a billet center weighted crankshaft from Ohio Crankshaft for $1650. I will build the engine to turn 8500 or so if it makes power there, but will be happy to turn much less. Any recommendations on cam selection will be helpful. The heads I got from Tom have individual T&D rockers, so I should be good there. TTI builds headers for B1 heads in a B-body, so I plan to run those. They are 2 1/8" to 2 1/4" step with 4" merge collectors. That oughta do it. Planning to run with a 1250 Dominator I have due to the high DA of 7700'. Thoughts?

By the way, that Ohio Crankshaft has no register on the back, just a flat surface. I assume this is no problem and it will register on the bolts? Thanks

Anybody try to put over 900hp through a Viper 6-speed? Not on a dragstrip, but in a Bonneville Salt Flats type environment? Thanks

I think the traction on the sand would be better with a converter, and you don't want to use just the bolts to locate the flexplate or flywheel. You have someone make you a plug that goes into the back of the crankshaft the same size as the collar on your forged crankshaft that locates the flexplate/flywheel. I'm sure Ohio Crankshaft can make one.

Keith Black Enterprises, 562-869-1518, makes and sells a billet steel adapter for use on the top fuel crank with no built in register that presses into them that has the proper I.D., O.D and depth for using and locating the later model torque converter hubs in them. I wouldn't try to use the later model stick shift flywheels on them Buy the early type flywheel that centers on the outer crankshaft flanges properly

Fellas, just a follow up. The B1 MC heads with 2.4" intake valves clear these 4.360" bores (not final). I'm sure the proximity is less than optimum for shrouding, but they clear by a good margin. Now to spec the right cam!

Tom Hemphile may be a good guy to call about a cam

Looking at that crank is like look'n in Play Boy used to be, you want it but you know you can't get it or maybe I'm getting old, but it's sweet!

Recieved one from Iowa! Thanks

Update- decided to go with THE block (which I have received),at 4.500" bore and 3.915" stroke to net 499". Machine work is being done and engine built by Best Machine, as I'm sure Chuck and Pete will make way more power than I could. Will be using a motor plate to fit a dry sump pump. Still shooting for 950hp+ NA. As of now, I'm inside of a year to have the car built...should be a piece of cake!

That type flange is like all the early Mopars had, Top fueler cranks are still built that way. The flywheel or converter centers over the outside edge of the flange
Do not ever count on using the bolts to hold the flywheel without a centering register