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I have the reproduction woodgrain bezels many sell (PG Classic/BEA /RTE...)and unless they changed them to make them more correct, I would give them a 7.5 out of 10. The ones I have are very shiney and lack some of the detail of the originals and the anadized part around the outside edge is a tad thicker and the color is off from my originals. Some ot these issues may have been improved by now (got mine from the first run)so I would call Mike at BEA parts as he is likely to have the best set avail. What I did was to use the overlay from Detroit Muscle Tech but to get these overlays to look perfect requires some prep work, patience and skill but when finished correctly, they look very good IMHO. I will try to post a pic when I get a chance today.

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I bought the one from BEA because I was in a hurry. No one who restores the dashes could get mine turned around in less than 6-18 months at the time. It was alot of money, but I wanted to drive the car and not wait, so I pulled the trigger.

The Black Plastic bezel is very nice. The woodgrain overlay is too shiny and the end caps didn't fit well. I spoke to Mike about this and he didn't have a good answer for the shiny woodgrain. It's just the way he made it. I think it is fine for a driver car and most "show" cars, but not for an accurate restoration.

As far as who does ones for an accurate restoration, that's up for debate also. I was going to use a guy in Florida, but his name escapes me at the moment. He had an 18 month turnaround.

Kudos to Mike for making some much needed parts, I just wish he'd try to make them a little more accurate.

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I have the reproduction woodgrain bezels many sell (PG Classic/BEA /RTE...)and unless they changed them to make them more correct, I would give them a 7.5 out of 10. The ones I have are very shiney and lack some of the detail of the originals and the anadized part around the outside edge is a tad thicker and the color is off from my originals. Some ot these issues may have been improved by now (got mine from the first run)so I would call Mike at BEA parts as he is likely to have the best set avail. What I did was to use the overlay from Detroit Muscle Tech but to get these overlays to look perfect requires some prep work, patience and skill but when finished correctly, they look very good IMHO. I will try to post a pic when I get a chance today.

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I bought the one from BEA because I was in a hurry. No one who restores the dashes could get mine turned around in less than 6-18 months at the time. It was alot of money, but I wanted to drive the car and not wait, so I pulled the trigger.

The Black Plastic bezel is very nice. The woodgrain overlay is too shiny and the end caps didn't fit well. I spoke to Mike about this and he didn't have a good answer for the shiny woodgrain. It's just the way he made it. I think it is fine for a driver car and most "show" cars, but not for an accurate restoration.

As far as who does ones for an accurate restoration, that's up for debate also. I was going to use a guy in Florida, but his name escapes me at the moment. He had an 18 month turnaround.

Kudos to Mike for making some much needed parts, I just wish he'd try to make them a little more accurate.

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I have the reproduction woodgrain bezels many sell (PG Classic/BEA /RTE...)and unless they changed them to make them more correct, I would give them a 7.5 out of 10. The ones I have are very shiney and lack some of the detail of the originals and the anadized part around the outside edge is a tad thicker and the color is off from my originals. Some ot these issues may have been improved by now (got mine from the first run)so I would call Mike at BEA parts as he is likely to have the best set avail. What I did was to use the overlay from Detroit Muscle Tech but to get these overlays to look perfect requires some prep work, patience and skill but when finished correctly, they look very good IMHO. I will try to post a pic when I get a chance today.

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I bought the one from BEA because I was in a hurry. No one who restores the dashes could get mine turned around in less than 6-18 months at the time. It was alot of money, but I wanted to drive the car and not wait, so I pulled the trigger.

The Black Plastic bezel is very nice. The woodgrain overlay is too shiny and the end caps didn't fit well. I spoke to Mike about this and he didn't have a good answer for the shiny woodgrain. It's just the way he made it. I think it is fine for a driver car and most "show" cars, but not for an accurate restoration.

As far as who does ones for an accurate restoration, that's up for debate also. I was going to use a guy in Florida, but his name escapes me at the moment. He had an 18 month turnaround.

Kudos to Mike for making some much needed parts, I just wish he'd try to make them a little more accurate.

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Mike didn't make them. I have a NOS radio delete plate and frankly although the repop is a little shinier and the color is slightly off, I thought is was very close and the nicest option I've seen to date.

YMMV

Dave

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I have the reproduction woodgrain bezels many sell (PG Classic/BEA /RTE...)and unless they changed them to make them more correct, I would give them a 7.5 out of 10. The ones I have are very shiney and lack some of the detail of the originals and the anadized part around the outside edge is a tad thicker and the color is off from my originals. Some ot these issues may have been improved by now (got mine from the first run)so I would call Mike at BEA parts as he is likely to have the best set avail. What I did was to use the overlay from Detroit Muscle Tech but to get these overlays to look perfect requires some prep work, patience and skill but when finished correctly, they look very good IMHO. I will try to post a pic when I get a chance today.

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I bought the one from BEA because I was in a hurry. No one who restores the dashes could get mine turned around in less than 6-18 months at the time. It was alot of money, but I wanted to drive the car and not wait, so I pulled the trigger.

The Black Plastic bezel is very nice. The woodgrain overlay is too shiny and the end caps didn't fit well. I spoke to Mike about this and he didn't have a good answer for the shiny woodgrain. It's just the way he made it. I think it is fine for a driver car and most "show" cars, but not for an accurate restoration.

As far as who does ones for an accurate restoration, that's up for debate also. I was going to use a guy in Florida, but his name escapes me at the moment. He had an 18 month turnaround.

Kudos to Mike for making some much needed parts, I just wish he'd try to make them a little more accurate.

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Mike didn't make them. I have a NOS radio delete plate and frankly although the repop is a little shinier and the color is slightly off, I thought is was very close and the nicest option I've seen to date.

YMMV

Dave

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Good point. There is a difference in 69 and 70 colors and patterns. He told me he made them. Did he tell you something different?

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Nope, but unless I'm missing something they are the same ones PG Classics in Canada sells. I think they are actually produced overseas. My understanding is that PG gets them reproduced in the far east and imports them and BE&A sells the same stuff in the US. Even though I'm up here in Canada, I've been buying stuff from Mike 'cause he's such a great guy and has stellar customer service.

Anyhow, I'm going to compare my NOS radio delete plate (don't tell Johnrr I called it that! ) with the repop. If I can get a decent pic or two, I'll post them side by side just for giggles.

Cheers,
Dave

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Anyhow, I'm going to compare my NOS radio delete plate (don't tell Johnrr I called it that! ) with the repop. If I can get a decent pic or two, I'll post them side by side just for giggles.

Cheers,
Dave

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The difference in gloss makes it harder to tell, but I'd say the grain, pattern and color are close.....but as I said; not close enough to mix and match. Still the best option out there short of finding NOS stuff (I didn't find any in 5 years of looking).


Dave

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Although, I have seen some of the restored pieces that are excellent.

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Thanks James,

I was wondering how to do the overlay over the lettering. I have a 73 Cuda and I don't remember there being any graphics on mine. Could be worn off by now.

Howard

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Need to restore the wood on my Rallye dash. Which is better, easier to do, buy the wood grain with the metal backing or just the decal and cover the old one? Who sells the best looking repos.

Thanks,

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