Hey Randy did you have an accumulator on this engine? I was thinking you installed one on one
of you race cars. My R3 block holds lots of oil up top too and luckily a member saw some pictures of my build and recommended that I drill some more 1/2 inch drain back holes. On the RacePak read-out I can see it dipping down early in the run on my 1-2 shift. Its not real bad but I don't like seeing that so I may end up doing some mods to my Milidon oil pan or installing an accumulator next Winter. Very sorry to see your issues but I know you will come back faster and stronger.

To answer a few questions, the clearances were re-checked over the winter because we had lower than normal oil pressure at idle hot. We found the mains had excessive clearances .006-.007 and dusted the caps and brought it back down around .0025....Oil pressure this year has been great. I have probably 400 miles on it, and probably 20 passes total. This year alone.

The cam is roller, and the lifters/pushrods have no provisions for oil. Just standard mods as mentioned.

We were not able to get the accumulator to work, so it ended up in someone else's garage.

We do not run any restrictions in the heads, and really have no way to determin if we should. Now a Hemi can hold a lot of oil up top and in the valley. We have always had great luck on the ones we run 12 quarts on and marginal luck on anything less.

What to do about this is the question.....

Update:

Looks like the block is salvageable, so far. I will get the rest torn down this week and looked at. With that, I called Jan-Cen figuring anyone who runs a promod Hemi has blown a few up and knows where to get a block welded....They said bring it down....they do them in house. Sooo, this could be good.

The heads are perfect and un-touched. The piston is/was in the bottom of the bore, and valves in the head are untouched as is the chamber.

There are two rods that need replacing and one piston....The crank is now the question. Where do I get .020" under bearings? It was turned -.010" once, and its all blue and black.

Rods were Eagle with ARP 2000 bolts. H-beam style. Still looking for the reason for the failure. Also looking at Oliver rods maybe for the next go around...We will see.

Doesn't sound so bad after all. Good deal.

Who was responsible for the excessive clearances the first time? How does a guy miss that?

I bet your valve covers are 1/2 filled on a run.
You should be running restrictors

What rods are in the engine now?

I run the same rods and bolts, my clearances are .0025/.0035 never a problem. I have a MP Siamese iron block, dual line system with 12qt pan tray with scraper built in.I run shell rotella 15/40 hd diesel oil.

I built and dyno tested one pump gas street stroker blower motor with a new Mopar replacemnt block, I oiled the rockers full time with no restrictors at first, on the dyno it was flooding the cylinder heads severly realy bad I put a .080 restrictor in it after that That was with a mixture of DLI stainless intake rockers and Norris stainless exhaust rockers with HD shafts and holdowns The new World cast grey iron hemi blocks come with a .039 restictor in the oiling passages to the heads, they oil full time from the factory I started using that size restrictor in my Indy headed wedge motors with aluminum roller rocker arms after that
I'm glad your going to be able to have that block fixed locally
Now to make it better and more powerful

So, the run where you saw the pressure fluctuate after making the pass isn't the one where it let go........ It came apart on the NEXT pass..... Correct?

What are you running for oil?
Rod bearing clearance?

Many will want to argue the point, but to ME .0025 is too tight for a performance motor with an Eagle crank and rods. And also look at it this way. You ran it a year with what was considered way too loose clearance. You tightened it up and it's broke

Also, if you think it is trapping a lot of oil in the heads or valve covers, might be time to consider some external drain lines

I am no way an expert like most of you all but dusting the caps ?
wouldn't that make that hole out of round??

I thought the same thing but I'm sure his engine builder would know it would need line honed to bring it back in spec

I pretty much feel like Monte. You ran it a year with "excessive" clearance and once tightened up it let go. Seems to point to one thing....

Good to hear.

good to hear that. Im sure you will get it straightened back out.

It was one of the mains, and my guy missed it. Most were so, so...one was excessive. We worked more on the thrust face, as that was too wide to fit a bearing.



We did not change rod side clearances,just crank to main clearances, and those bearings are fine. We will be double checking this though.

My wedge runs .003" rod/.004" mains, .016" rod side clearance, .0025-.003" at the lifter bore, pushrod oil with .058"at each pushrod. For the first 300 passes the pressure was adjusted to 65psi@7100. During tear down the rod bearings looked excellent, mains ok. The relief spring was broke in half and the pump gears had been damaged from broken valve spring shrapnel. Maintenanced with new bearings, pump gears, and spring, now runs 60 idle/80psi@7100. Way more than enough even with the loose clearance. I will cut down the relief spring to reduce it back down to 65 psi@7100. It runs 7 qts in a Charlie's pan with a swinging pick-up, single line Indy Max pump. 5w30 synthetic. Now setting at 350 passes with no bearing issues.
Doug

Sounds too tight to me. I run .0035" main clearance w/ a Callies crank (non coated SP 119M bearings) and .0025" rod clearance w/ Oliver billet rods and coated Clevites.

Where does the oil go BEFORE it gets to rods? Answer.......through the mains which you tightened the clearance on

My question is...... How do the other 6 rod bearings look?
If they're fine, then it's obviously not an oil pan/supply issue.

Fwiw, .0025 on the mains for that type of build is tighter than I would have let go.
I would have made them .0035-.0045, preferably with coated bearings.
.0025-.0030 on the rods, again coated bearings.

I have used several sets of Eagle 7.100 rods with the arp2000 bolt upgrade.
They all needed to be touched up on the hone before I felt they were ready to use.
It seemed like they were fine with the TQ settings for std bolts, but the added TQ of the 2000 bolts pulled them a little out of round.