Nice! no bonanzas were pressurized. they made a pressurized baron, which is a twin engine bonanza. Flying is the second greatest thrill known to man, landing is the first......

Right... next thing you know, they will make leaded automobile fuel illegal! Oh wait...
And yes, as I said there are two companies with a substitute waiting for EPA approval. Once approved, 100LL will be treated as poison, and in 2018 mandated.

My brother in law had a Bonanzas... did they make a
pressurized version ... was fun.. he would let me
do the take offs .. never did a landing... use to
fly in that a lot... he had the contract for building
Burger Kings
[/quote]

Nice! no bonanzas were pressurized. they made a pressurized baron, which is a twin engine bonanza. Flying is the second greatest thrill known to man, landing is the first...... [/quote]

When he sold his single he picked up the twin with
all the bells... nice plane.. I never even took that
one off

did not say it wasn't going to happen, just nowhere near as fast as you think it will. As a pilot I have been following this for years. You're talking about the government they don't do anything fast! The replacement will still be 100 octane. It would just be unleaded. That would make it even better for people that use it in their street cars.....

If you plan on making the Wild Horse track your new home track, you can buy Sunoco 100 or 110 at the Lovi's station directly across from the track. Aint cheap, but accessible. Don't think you are gonna have much luck buying Av gas in this area.

I will check it out in a month or so and go from there............

Thumper what is the compression on you motor? What is the cranking cylinder pressure?

As you've said, they've been at this for years, so it is not happening fast. 2018 is two years away, but they didn't come up with this idea today.
The PAFI initiative is in full speed ahead mode now.
It is surprising more people aren't aware of this in the experimental aircraft section, where people have a way above average interest in just this sort of thing.
Anyway, I'm sure the fuel prices will go up exponentially, and from what I'm told, one of the fuels up for EPA cert has a nasty side effect of being "unfriendly" to painted surfaces.

I loved racing the A 35 and A 36 Bonanza for distances over 300 miles I wouldn't fly at there altitude though We had several different Bonaza on my home field, a K model 250 HP V tail, a 1968 A 35 285 HP. Below 10,000 FT I couldn't stay with the A35,he had 1 to 3 MPH depending on the density altitude and payload weights. Above 10,000 he couldn't stay with me
What are the details on the F33, seating, HP and cruise speeds?
BTW, my 1960 250 moddle had a 1965 260 HP conversion from the firewall forward, it wasn't stock and I did have the airfamed optimised for speed at cruise, sliding the front two seats back all the way in cruise was worth 4 MPH, keeping 200 lbs. in the baggage compartment was worth some speed also Little things like that add up, once a racer, always a racer
Sadly it got total in a hail storm in 2006 after moving it up here from SO CA in 2005, no hangars available to rent or buy at the local airport back then I thought flying would be more fun, not so except for aerobatics

I cranked it 4+ years ago and it was 175+ and I`m at 12.1.1 compression...........

Fired up my road runner this weekend after it's been sitting for about 2 months. Tank full of Avgas, fired right up after a couple pumps of the throttle. So much bad info from people who have never run the stuff in a car here.

And you probably didn't have to replace a pair of rotted out accel pump diaphrams.

Pump gas is horrible if you let a car sit for any period of time.

Very true. No alcohol is a plus for Av gas. Unfortunately can't buy it around here and pump gas in my area is $2.15 a gallon.

Thumper, my cranking compression is 195~200 and drive and race on 93 octane. Not sure if that means a lot.

I looked up the specs. on the F33, the guy who own the A35 Debonair on our field told me that is was a A35, maybe he lied about the model number seeing as it had the same specs. as the F33 model on the internet I flew in the other Bonaza V35 K model to go to lunch, sitting on top of the wing spar gave me a completely different perspective than sitting down low in the Comanche, it was similar to the differences between sitting in a 55 Chevy Bel air and sitting a 1963 Corvette
Sorry for the hijack, Thumper

Ya I know several base cranking comp on fuel but it goes up as rpm`s climb so 101 for me as all we have is 91 crap and not worth the risk. I have mixed 110 leaded in the past w/91 and it seemed fine so maybe avgas or mixing for the track..........

Easiest way to get the alcohol out is to put water in the gasohol and then drain off the water, the alcohol binds with the water, then you remove it.

What's that do to the octane #?

I don't know, I just know that Alcohol is bad for aircraft....it destroys the aluminum tanks and lines quick. Tim

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14679

Ethanol is the scourge of owners of motorcycles, boats, and many other gasoline-operated vehicles and implements. E10 (10% ethanol) is pretty much the only available gasoline in most of the country now, with a few stations offering ethanol-free gas. And E15 (15% ethanol) is coming soon, recently approved by the EPA for 2001 and newer cars - even though the car manufacturers don't want it, and it is not approved for use by any motorcycle manufacturer either. You can thank the ethanol lobby for that.

"E15 won't be a problem - I'll just select my regular E10 on the pump," you may say. Well, there is a problem - the pipes and hose of the fuel pump contain about 3/4 gallon of whatever was last dispensed - and that could be E15. 3/4 gallon isn't much when you're pumping 15 gallons into your car, but when you're only pumping a few gallons into your bike, which doesn't like ethanol to begin with, 3/4 gallon makes a big difference!

What's the problem with ethanol? The biggest problem is phase separation. Like brake fluid, ethanol is hygroscopic, which means it bonds very easily to water. If there is moisture in the air (which there always is), the moisture bonds with the ethanol. The combination of water and ethanol is heavier than gasoline, so it falls to the bottom of the gas tank, where the pickup is. Let your bike sit for any length of time, particularly with a partially-full gas tank (because the air space left will contain moisture, and will expand and contract with heat, sucking in more moisture-laden air), and your tank will have a layer of water/ethanol mixture on the bottom. This is called phase separation. Guess what gets sucked into your engine the next time you start it? The water/ethanol mixture will burn in your engine, but it will burn much leaner and hotter, with the potential for serious engine damage as a result.

Ethanol is particularly corrosive to plastics, rubber, aluminum and fiberglass when compared to straight gasoline. If you have a vintage bike with a fiberglass tank, and are running E10 gasoline in it, the tank is likely swollen and on its way to failure as the ethanol breaks down the fiberglass. Many bikes have developed leaks and problems from swollen gaskets and failed rubber hoses and seals, all as a result of E10.

When E10 is allowed to sit for a long time, particularly somewhere where air can get in, like a normal vented gas tank, the volatile portion of the fuel will eventually evaporate. What's left is a milky goo. This goo eventually hardens into an amber solid, which then cracks into tiny pieces - heading directly into your carburetor to clog jets and cause failures.

Two stroke engines definitely have problems with E10: ethanol breaks down the lubrication provided by the fuel/oil mixture, leading to engine seizures!

So what is the solution? Well, you can check out the web site http://pure-gas.org to try to find a gas station near you that sells ethanol-free gas. Hint: many boat marinas sell ethanol-free gas, because with the added moisture in a boating environment, E10 plays havoc with boat engines.

Or...you can make your own ethanol-free gas. Yes, you heard me right! Make it yourself! I never even thought about doing this, until I read the excellent article "Removing Ethanol from E10 Fuel" by Dave Searle in the December 2012 issue of Motorcycle Consumer News - my absolute favorite magazine. If you haven't got a subscription to this magazine yet, stop reading this right now and go subscribe! I promise you won't be sorry. I've using a few pictures from Dave's article in this article.

So as you can guess, you don't actually make your own gasoline, you take regular E10 gasoline and remove the ethanol. Because ethanol boosts the octane in gasoline, I recommend you start with premium gas. Removing the ethanol from the premium will in the process lower the octane to the equivalent of regular gas. If you start with regular E10, you will need to add an octane booster, available at any auto store, or Wal-Mart.

So how do you remove the ethanol from E10? It's quite simple, actually - just add water! Remember, ethanol binds strongly to water. All you need to do is add some water to the gasoline, agitate to make sure it mixes well, then let it sit for a few minutes. The water will bond with the ethanol, and it will phase-separate out, falling to the bottom of the container.

How much water do you add? Well you can't add too much. If you don't add enough, then it won't remove all of the E10, and what E10 does bond with the water, will separate to the bottom of your container. If you add too much, the available ethanol will bond to the water, and the remaining water will separate to the bottom. You'll then have three layers: gasoline on top, ethanol/water in the middle, and water on the bottom: