Seems that the early in tank efi pumps were more subject to failure if they were run out of fuel, but they usually had to run out more then once. I worked in a Chrysler dealership in the mid 80s. The most prevalent cause of an EFI in tank fuel pump failure was running them out of gas.

Sometimes some people just got lucky and the 1st time they ran out of fuel, the pump died. We lost a fuel pump on our 85 Lebaron GTS the 1st time my wife ran it out of gas, and the car only had around 80k miles on it. She never ran out of gas after that, and the replacement pump was still going after 250K miles, when the car died.

Running out of fuel doesn't seem to have as much effect on the pumps as it used to have. Maybe the pumps are better, or maybe they have more loose clearances these days.
Those in tank pumps sure don't tolerate any dirt or other foreign objects floating around in the gas! Gene

My daily is an 04. completely stock. The reason this thought came up was that the car sputtered and died while I was almost bone dry on fuel, but I got it started back up immediately and made to gas station and filled it full. A mile down the road as I was parking it sputtered and died. crank crank crank no start. So, that memory of being told "never run a fuel injected car out of gas" came up and I thought maybe I fried the pump. Had to get towed home. But with the information from the posts in this thread, and hours of research and screwing around with the car today, Im still not sure what the issue is. Its not exactly a chrysler car... so I posted the complete story in the Moparts general section.

My pump primes for 2 seconds when the key is turned to the ON position, but when the key is turned to start and the engine cranks, the fuel pump doesnt make a sound. Not sure if the computer restricts the the fuel pump/injectors until it confirms spark or a certain rpm.. But one thing is for sure, Im either not getting spark or not getting fuel during cranking.

It's easy enough to find out witch.
Just unplug a spark-plug, insert Phillips head screw driver and look for spark while some-one turns the key.

I removed a coil pack and tested and was getting spark. I sprayed some gas in the throttle body but it wouldnt start. Dont have any starting fluid, that would probably work better than my spray can with gas and give me a better answer. I also need to get a fuel pressure tester and see what my pressure is. Just gotta get a ride to the parts store

Have you just tried pushing in on the schrader valve on the fuel line to see if there is any fuel pressue?

On this particular car, there is no Schrader valve. I have to disconnect the line from the fuel pump and hook a tester there

Shot starting fluid into intake. Cranks but no start. Car is cranking slow due to battery dying, so I cant say if the spark is too blame yet.

Disconnected the fuel line at the fuel tank. The fuel pump is one assembly with the regulator, fuel filter, sending unit, and pump all in one unit, so this is the easiest place I can test the pump. I hooked up the gauge. 56lbs while pumping, and held 52lbs when turned off. Looks like my fuel pump is working fine.

Since I bypassed the fuel pump relay, and have witnessed the pump pumping during cranking, then Im narrowed down to either ignition or something that controls the fuel injectors. maybe they just aren't firing?

I cannot continue till I get the battery charged. Autozone is doing that for me now, my charger is broken.

You stated starting fluid made no difference in non start problem, go back to a no spark solution, IMO.

could it be a cam or crank sensor acting up ? in other words, it has fuel and spark, just not at the correct time to make it fire and run.

I ran out of gas on my Roadrunner. It instantly plugged an injector into the stuck open position, lesson learned.

This was probably mentioned but the fuel cools the pump if it is in the tank so always keep gas in the tank , keep gas in the tank and keep the fuel pump cool.

If you have spark and fuel pressure I would check for injector trigger...a noid light works best for that. You guys that are determined to run around on fumes will get screwed someday when the sender falsey reads fuel in the tank. It happens often and it happened to me. Gauge said 1/4 tank as I ran out of fuel in the middle of a very busy multi-lane highway. Having turned wrenches for 30 years I do believe repeatedly running tanks low on fuel will shorten pump life.

When the fuel level is low on a pump submerged and cooled by liquid,
the "net positive suction head"
at the suction inlet of the pump becomes low,
and there is a greater chance that
the liquid will begin to boil and turn into a gas at the point in the pump passages where pressure is lowest.

As this newly formed gas bubble moves through the pump it suddenly encounters a much higher pressure area,
and the gas bubble VERY rapidly collapses and turns back to liquid.
This is "cavitation" and it can rapidly eat away metal and ruin a pump,
but it also immediately stops the pumping flow until the liquid cools down.

On a 1995 Ram Magnum 5.9V8 with 183,000 miles on the original submerged fuel pump I had this happen on a 1100 mile trip to Florida.

When i changed the pump I found the situation was made worse because the "sock filter" below the pump suction inlet had become clogged. The fuel filter above the pump on the 43 psi +\- high pressure side appeared to be still flowing without too much pressure drop. The pressure regulator above the fuel filter probably heated up the excess fuel it recirculated back into the tank too.

Yes, many valid points, but this was based on what you shared, the heart of your pump issue IMO:

"was made worse because the "sock filter" below the pump suction inlet had become clogged."

Well I cannot dispute the theory that running the tank low hurts the pump. All I know is I'm getting very close to optimal pressure from this pump/regulator unit. And since it pumps, my problem is probably in the system that triggers the injectors, since I did get spark, or cam/crank sensor, or belt (doubt it though). But I do not have a node light or the time to deal with tracking down the problem right now. My friend owns a shop out here and hes going hook up his nice diagnostic machines and find the problem for me so I can fix it. I'll let y'all know what it was

Well, i guess I was way off. My friend says the timing belt broke. I did not suspect that at all, so I didnt even go that route during my own examinations..

Since I was pulling into a parking stall slowly when it shuddered and died, I MIGHT have a chance that no valves were bent. I did not hear any bangs or feel any bad metal to metal vibrations when it died, so I may be in the clear. Then again, Ive never been in a car that bent a valve so I do not know what it sounds/feels like.

Lame though because its my daily driver. Only had it a few months. The car lot I bought it from doesn't do warranties, so I don't think there's any obligation to help me. This is the first car Ive purchased off a used car lot, probably the last. When I can afford it, Ill buy a new car with a warranty.

Probably moot points, since it seems to be a mechanical issue.

Most pumps seem to be mounted vertically, on a bracket that locates it off the tank floor. For it to stay submerged, you would usually need to keep at least 1/3rd - 1/2 tank of fuel. IMO if it was that important to keep the pump submersed for cooling, they would have mounted it in the bottom of the tank, preferably in a sump area. So IMO the fuel running thru the pump is enough to cool it.

Kind of a running joke - the RARE occasion I fill up my 250K beater Dakota (that still has the original fuel pump) the gas needle has to knock the dust off all the fuel level lines over 1/8 tank. IMO I will have to replace the LOW FUEL bulb before the pump.

Can't speak for all cars, but every EFI car that I have ever tested has pulsed a noid light upon key on, which tells me it tried to fire the injector. Also, the ECM usually is programmed to shut off the injectors during cranking if the TPS over a certain % - a flooded engine clear out mode.

IMO dirty fuel and water contaminating the filter sock cause more issues than maintaining a low fuel level will.