There are plenty of OE that use glass leaf springs, including 'vettes. Not exactly apples to apples when talking about an aftermarket supplier. The material isn't the limitation, the engineering may be.

I've been running the FlexAForm mono fiberglass leafs since the lat 1980s (~1988-9)... never a problem on mine.. never seen aothers fail, etc. these are made by the same company that makes Corvette OE leafs (Flexaform)... they worked with me for the best choice. They do take ~2-weeks or a bit more to initially settle at their flatness (so, I loaded the car down with weight for a cpl weeks as it sat in the garage). they react faster than metal springs (my previous were de-arched hemi springs from a Challenger). They'll save you ~25 pounds per side. I used to trailer the car... sold the trailer ~7 years ago (and tow vehicle ~10 years ago)... began driving the car I've also loaded the car with travel stuff for long distance driving (typically to a race event)... basic tool box, lt wt sizzors jack, spare parts/fluids, tent/cot/sleeping bag/clothes, cooler... brings it down a little for the haul but I spread the load out front/rear... very driveable... no problems. You do want to have the poly bushings installed front/rear (may have to turn down the OD of the fronts bushings a little for installation)... and the bushings might squeek a little... what else is new. I'm aware of some serious national SCCA Solo autocross racers using these leafs... no problems I'm aware of. I've considered the Hotchkis (3-leafs?) IF I'd ever go back to steel, but they're a little too soft for my setup, so, I'd probably add leaf to them and have them de-arched as needed. Weight reduction is important.

I've had my 1.24" bars since they were the only options in about 2007.

No regrets. I've not had them on a racetrack but they ride well with Koni Red's.

The 50 pounds less in the rear of the car due to the fiberglass leafs is very interesting! I would think that 1.24's would only be slightly heavier than 1.12's?

While the weight shift from the rear towards the center of the car kind of sucks it shouldn't that big of a deal.

Firm Feel said that 1.24 TB's = $500
I would guess custom leafs spings = $500
Hotchkis to re-valve 4 shocks = $200
Shipping for everything = $150
Couple of alignments = $180

Not too bad for the cost for everything if I do go for it.

Whoa! Not good...

Kind of worthless without some context. Any part will fail if abused.

See pic #11 for reference, the other 43? pics will provide some context, low HP street car with less 1000? miles on springs pictured.


https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1554307

Hypercoil makes composite springs too.

It happens, every process will have defects...ideally they are caught before they get out of the door, but not always.

Since when is this a bad thing? I thought this was the cornering-forum?

I was oversteering way too much at Sonoma particularly at Turn 2 and 11 near the walls haha! Was able to dial it out though.

I'm pretty sure my weight split is still around 55/45 front/rear and want to shift more weight to the rear where it is the lightest. I don't need any more weight in the center as I have a 200 lbs/90 kg roll cage there.

Moving static weight towards the car's CG is almost always beneficial, if your weight distribution is reasonable. But yes, getting it off of the front in these applications is best. If you aren't familiar with it, you may want to look into moment of inertia (polar moment) and further understand how weight away from the CG is like a lever in turns, trying to rotate the car before changing directions. Weight in the center of the car is not as effective at changing weight distribution than in the trunk, but it is certainly better than it being out front.