I don't have the pics yet ,,but cruisin home from a show cause it got rained out... the 512 went boom...found the 500.00 rockers on OTB Eddy heads , don't last too long..ran perfect for 5 years ,But only around 2k miles .. none a 1/4 at a time.!!, then in the rain Boom.. The rockers fell apart.. The pins holding the roller on the arm fell completely off on one rocker and was half out on another.. and after checking 10 more rockers the pins were so loose I could push them out with your finger. Valve hit piston so you know what the head looks like ,,then all those parts took out the block..I'll get those pics soon , here is the car. Edit , I stand corrected,, after talking with the owner,, He got the rockers at Carlisle ,, NEW but not from any company I know !!!

Man that sukzzz.................. No cheap chit in my motors except for the stock forged crank..........

I street drive my 505 everywhere so rocker choice was an issue. I chose the old school Crane ductile iron ones for simplicity and durability.

Sorry for your misfortune.

Sorry to see your issues but no way on Gods earth would I pay 500 dollars for CHEAP rockers with a bad track record. I swear some guys don't research their engine part choices.

Sorry to hear about your motor. I'm not sure I'll ever feel fuzzy about using an aluminum rocker arm again, especially on a street driven car. After I got bit by aluminum rockers I switched back over to the Crane Ductile Irons. I just don't think it's worth the hassle to go roller at this point given all the headaches that come with them.

^^^ This. Just because it's old doesn't mean it's a bad design.

ouch that has to sting . I tried a set of those rockers a few years ago - sent them back as they would always come loose even after 10 minutes run time . I use the Crane gold aluminium in my RB , daily driver/bracket racer had them 8 plus years . I do probably 7-10000miles a year

Tex

I had a set of Comp Magnum knock offs that the roller tips were going away on. The axles were still tight in the rocker arm tho.

Kevin

Just find yourself a deal on Harland Sharps and be done with it, check lash every couple months or so and good to go.

I dunno, seems like you hear bad news across the board be it low end rockers or high dollar rockers. Wasn't it GregsDart who just lost the roller fulcrum on his rockers? Those weren't cheapies as I recall.

I'm sure some day I'll try another set but it'll be awhile. I'll have to destroy my 1.6 Crane ductile rockers first before I change course again.

To many times I've heard to stay away from aluminum rockers and certainly roller fulcrums on a street car.

FWIW, these pics were two separate occasions. Although they were CAT rockers I'm sure there are some high dollar rockers out there that look the same. Add in the geometry chaos and it becomes way less fun to have roller rockers.

On a side note, if they make .05 in E.T. difference, I may jump back on board.

Ouch. Sorry to hear that. Hopefully you will get her rebuilt even better than before. The Comp cast alloy steel setup (Pro Magnum) has taken a beating w/o complaint on my stuff.

Thats a bummer it took out most everything... its
bad enough to take out a head and piston but a block
also... major bummer
EDIT
I pay the price for my rockers... all I use is TD..
even on the street rod

I can OFFICIALLY say I have been in the sport of drag racing for 40 plus years and knock on wood have never broken a rockerarm. These days I mainly stick with Harlan Sharp and T&D rockers but no matter what brand I use I take a couple of days on my engine stand trying to set up the rockers to my liking. I then mark every rocker for position so each rocker goes in the same spot every time to simplify repairs if and when needed. I currently have Indy rockers on my 422 and hope to switch them out over the Winter as I know they have issues after extended use. DON'T cheap out on rockers or it will bite you in the azz sooner or later.

Fully rollerized HS`s for many years/miles w/zero issues........Lots of myths out there for sure.......

Cheap rockers break on cheap engines, expensive rockers break on expensive engines, they are usually running a lot more lift, spring pressure and RPM and it will take it's tole even on good parts, but if you put cheap rockers on a 800 LBS spring with .800 lift it might just break on the engine stand. Bottom line if you use really good rockers on a regular guys street strip engine they will last a real long time. If your gonna use cheap rockers don't get rollers get the ductile ones. I have seen cheap rocker cost guys big money in the end.

Big Block valve train problems have been a thorn in my side for the last 5+ years since I started messing with the Edelbrock victor heads.

I also "tried" a cheap ($200/set)set of stainless steel 1.7:1 cat rockers, but the roller wheels were so soft they started to wear flat.
I might rebuild those with good rollers and adjusters some day as the castings are not bad, but not worth the $$$ to me right now.
I replaced those with 1.6:1 Harlan Sharp rockers (these are on 440 Source stealth heads) and no problems with the HS rockers although I think they were almost $800/set.

Can you rebuild the roller tips on them? I have a set of those type rockers that the rollers are rattling on the axles.

I'd be interested to know if you can buy "real" roller assemblies to rebuild them with from Comp.

I've got quite a bit of $$ in mine after I fixed everything else that was wrong with them so a little more $$ at this point might allow me to at least get some use out of them.

Kevin

What kind of rockers were these?

Are there any good stainless/metal roller tip rockers for BB Mopars?

Sorry for your misstep. I don't trust aluminum roller rockers on any engine. I have only used Pro Comp magnum roller tip stainless steel rockers. No issues.
I also trust the doctile iron units.