The first time I flipped it, I employed the help of two others...just in case it got too much to handle. Turned out I was able to do it by myself and they turned into just spotters, which was at least on the safe side. I should add that I am 5'11" and all of 145# soaking wet, not particularly a burly fella.

I can truly say that without any additional help, the flip is very controlled. Initially I was very worried about it hitting the tipping point and "going over". That was not the case, as long as your radii are somewhat concentric, it should be pretty darn smooth, it was for me..and I just eyeballed the alignment front-to-rear. If you go this route, try not to overthink the roll, it was far less stressful than I had imagined in my head.

I wish I had taken more pictures as I have gotten a bunch of inquiries on it, I thought it was just a cheesy way to do a generally expensive task. I left the car on it's side for about 3 weeks with no ill side effects. The wood now makes up a ramp to my shed.

Off the top of my head, I left around 3" of space from the door to the ground as a buffer. The radii were around 22", I used a dog-leash, a sharpie and a sawzall to get the rough round cut...again, no rocket-science going on here, very simple processes. The bigger the radius, the smoother the roll. The plywood was 23/32" or whatever it is, nothing exotic, I doubled it up on the radus. I primarily used simple wood screws, and the occasional 5/16" lag bolt if I didn't have much real estate to spread the load. As you can see from the pictures, my primary ties were at the bumper mounts.

This is a pretty sorry timelapse that I attempted to do. My neighbor wanted to check out progress and took up some time, but it does show the general process. Screw a stud to the rear board as a lever to get the car to roll, then use the floor jack and stands to get it back flat on the ground. one-man operation.

LINK BELOW

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByV2qH2xg3ObMDNIMGl5R2tick0

LINK ABOVE


The rear bracing was probably also unnecessary but I wanted to mitigate any racking of the plywood. The plywood has all of it's strength in shear, not in bending, so I wanted to make sure the load stayed in shear. I removed the bracing once it was on it's side to work, it was still very stable, but reinstalled it to roll it back down as a safety factor.



Tie between the front/rear was later removed, wasn't necessary.

Awesome and much thanks.

I'm definitely going to try this.

Was the dog using it at the time?

The leash was unemployed at the time.

What did you use your jig for? Was it purely for painting or did it help with putting the car tool bracing in?

I was wondering if it would be okay to tack weld the connectors in while level, the rotate on to its side to do the finishing welds.

Primarily getting the underside clean[er] and undercoating the car. I welded in the connectors before rolling the car, but this is before I considered the wood tip-over rig. I knew I wasn't buying a rotisserie and made do with what I had.


I'd tack while the car is loaded relatively where the suspension would place loads.