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I had a similar problem with a /6, the solution was to charge the battery. Even though the engine spun quickly it would not start until after the battery was charged. Problem went away and never returned!

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I agree that it sounds like battery or grounds or a combination of both, but this has been hashed and rehashed along with about everything else. Reason I made the help statement above. Time to get hands competent on help.

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Thats whats making me so dang mad..i am competent, i built this car from nothing but a shell and its always been fine, NEVER any ignition problems, and there just isnt much to the ignition on these things..when it did this the first time and a new ecu fixed it, it made sense since the ecu was an autozone unit and about 10 years old now. But now the ecu's are not correcting the problem EVEN THOUGH its acting IDENTICAL to the way it did when the ecu went out..just like it, get it cranking over and it will sputter a fe times but never start, JUST like before when the new ecu fixed it. When the car is fine, it never sputters or 'tries' to hit like this, it just VROMM, fires up like thunder..

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I am not questioning your competency or anything like that but the thing is it seems that you like the rest of us can look at something so long and so much that we tend to over look something that would jump out an bite a new look. (been there)
I am still questioning if you have checked all your engine grounds. Remember that just because the engine cranks over and that you have the battery grounded to the radiator support or to the body of the vehicle it is not nessessarly grounding the engine and the engine needs a good ground to properly operate the ignition system. The engine like I have said has not a good ground with out having a separate ground from it to the body of the vehicle because the engine and everything back is mounted with rubber insulators.. Usually from the rear of the engine to the fire wall.

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Been at it all day again and still nothing. Ok, i checked for TDC and made sure timing has not jumped, its dead on still, compression is 150-155, as it was also, so the engine is fine thank god. So i dig in my box of junk and i had another ECU plug, so i made my own harness with it to eliminate it being a wiring problem of the cars harness, still same crap!! Did just the same, so the engine and wiring are ok for sure..I then took all 3 ecu's i have and directly clamped them to the engine itself to make damn sure they were grounded, same thing although the old rusty one seemed to make it 'try' to hit a little better than the new one and the other failed one i had..The ONLY 2 things i have not bought new for it is the coil and the reluctor ring in the distributor, but i did try another coil that i have, should be good but not positive. Can the reluctor ring be bad? I dont see how being that it just spins and the pickup coil's magnetization picks up on it..? If the coil was bad would it still produce a spark like it is but maybe not strong enough? Ive never seen anything like this ever! Old mopars have always been second nature to me till this..HELP!!

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they will not fire if they are wet. spray the plugs with starting fluid to clean/dry them, blow them off to dry them & put them in after they dry & shoot some starting fluid in the carb primaries while holding the throttle open. A good 2 second blast. Pump the gas SPARINGLY as in no more than 1 or 2 pumps max & dont pump it at all until it's cranked for a bit. Shoot more starting fluid if needed. We are wanting to get this to fire on starting fluid rather than on gas which is easily flooding it.

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well, i took the distributor out of the block and spun it and it is making spark, i even tried the other 2 ecu's that are supposedly bad and they made the same spark, It is a bluish purple spark, i just pulled a plug wire off and stuck another plug in it while i spun the distributor, i also pulled the coil wire out of the coil a little bit and spun the distributor and it made bunches of spark. with the ballast plugged up im only getting 5.5 volts to the coil and with the ballast bypassed im getting 8.5 volts to the coil..still wont run after all this messing, i did ohm the pickup coil and its 276 and it changes if i spin the distributor shaft but ends up back at 276, saw on the tech archives that it should be between 375-425, but i thought these either worked or didnt work at all, meaning no spark produced? what the heck do i do now?

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Sounds like it's not getting enough voltage to the coil to me, shouldn't it be around 12 volts starting and 9 volts running when using a ballast?

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I believe MRNOBODY is on this like like gas on your fouled plugs.
Seriously I just went through a no start,hard start situation. First if you have a propane or oxygen acetylene torch heat plugs until the porcelain is white. Do not melt electrode as I have.
In the cranking mode I had 9 volts and wouldn't start unless I put the battery charger on start? got me thinking? swapped my good battery into R/C. Still no consistent quick crisp cold starts. I had changed from the dual pick up dizzy to a standard single pick up dizzy. I gaped it at the factory spec of .008 when I installed it? SOOOO I used my dial calipers and found plastic that was .004 loosened my magnetic pick up slipped my high tech red neck feeler gauge in the pick up gap and adjusted. YEP you guessed it that fixed my problem.
Not to be pushy but double check the pick up gap and get more voltage to coil.
I was following a questionable mechanic who had also used the coil + for power to the MSD 5al not 6al box. Good luck

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You're gonna laugh when you find it

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Chad are you smiling! After all this thinking, analization, dissecting & hair pulling it was the plugs .! The run side of the dual ballast is .5 ohms, the "641" race ballast is 1/4 ohm & the MP one for orange/chrome boxe in a daily driver are I think 1 ohm so you are way over. You might jump 12V to the upstream side of your ballast to see if it's a voltage drop problem or that your ballast is too high.