MW ports are just getting going at .615 lift. Is that actual lift or gross lift? Depending on your rocker arms and valve lash you might have less than 0.600 actual lift at the valve.

Not sure how serious you are about racing vs. street driving but the basic combo that you have with MW heads, 12:1 compression, Dominator carb, etc is good for 750 to 800 hp if it is leaned on. That is enough power to drop you into the 9's if the car hooks up.

While you are waiting for the car to get finished why not haul the engine over to Best or someone like that and have them put it on the dyno?

hi Eddie
What weight is your car with you in it ? What do you have for suspension ? I ran calvert 9 ways on the rear with cheap calvert fronts and my best 60ft was 1.43, changed to afco doubles on the rear and my best improved to 1.36, it's gone 1.39 to 1.40 a few times as well. 128 might not be enough to go teens, my car would usually run around 130 to 132.
Mick

What size tire are you running? 28 sounds a bit small. Figuring out why it won't 60 ft well is the first thing to do. Is it spinning? Carb issues? Get those things in line and get it to 60 ft within .005 to .01 and you will be able to tune it better and maybe pick up more yet in the 60 ft. You may need better shocks for proper control, and maybe bigger slicks. After that, you can decide just where to go. Since you have worked with Dwayne, his input on what a cam change will do is where I would go for best advice. I think it would pick up a bunch with a roller with more duration and more lift, but he knows your situation better and what all would need to change, and potential gains.

x2; it's not just that the 60-ft is soft, but something is holding it back from making the power needed to be closer to 10.0s. "On paper", you have the potential to make more.

My car went 10.5s at 126 w/ 1.45-1.46 60-fts. Even if I can improve the 60s, I'd expect it'll still need the HP to run 130++ to get down to the LOW 10s like you & I both want.

Dwayne told me recently the step from 10.5s to 10.0s is going to be a big one, much harder than what it took to go from 11.0s to 10.5s, so I'm right there w/ you.

Have you check the valve springs? The fact that you made changes that should have picked the car up but didn't often points to valve springs or fuel system. Since the 60's are a little weak I would look to the valve springs first but that's just an opinion. How much seat and open pressure do you run? Also I would think that your combo would want to go through higher then 6,800 RPM so maybe a gear change to a 4.30 or 4.56 might be worth something.

Great ideas to check the springs and fuel
way to often we think that those things would
have been checked first thing

What does it weigh again?

Is it dead hooking now?

For a comparison on the stall speed, with a 448 running 260cfm 906's and a torker II intake/850, 259@.050 cam, I ran 5300 stall with 4.56's and 29.5 tires.

Your heads and manifold are much bigger, along with a longer duration cam.
It's a "street" car so I know you'd like to maintain some degree of streetability, but if getting the best ET out of it was the goal, I'd want another 500 flash out of it.

As for a cam swap, there is probably a little room for improvement there as well, but I don't think it would be anywhere near 3-4 tenths, and without more stall I feel how much different you could go is limited.

What I would try if I were going to do a cam swap is a Comp MM lobe, 271/271-108, in at 104.
Install new springs with the swap....... Extreme care during break in.

However, if it's in the budget....... Just put a roller in it.

On the moroso chart, 128 is a 10.39....... So it's not way off.

128/4.10's/28" = 6300rpm, so the converter slip is 8%, which is pretty normal for that type of combo with an 8" converter.

If you do end up swapping the cam, I agree that a dyno session would be a good idea.
That way you can tune it up and will know what it "should" run.

Dwayne.. a little off subject here.. but I'm
thinking of pulling my roller cam out of my 416..
what is the max lift that can be had for a street/strip
engine on a FT cam.. I have .640 in it now.. is there
something thats street friendly in the .620 lift area
thanks

You know your correct on this Now comes the hard part of figuring out what exactly it is I would look at the fuel delivery system to start with From the size of the pickup in the tank all the way to the needles and seats in the carbs, all of it has to be bigger than needed to go faster than you are now
Let us know what you find and do

We can only guess at the power without knowing the race weight but with 12.1 and max port SR's, even with the existing cam it's got to be north of 650 hp.
Mick

'69 RoadRunner with a big block and a driver is probably around 3500 lbs. Wallace says 128mph at 3500 lbs is 565 hp.

As a reference, my stock bodied '69 RR with a 496, stealth heads, and a .575 lift street-roller has 60 footed 1.52 (best) on 29.5 x 15 ET Drags. It weighs 3750 with me in it and is a street car with an out of the box 3500 RPM, 10" converter. It has 3800 lb super stock springs and a snubber. I run worn out MP rear shocks that need replaced. This car only went 11.62 on the 1.52 60 foot mentioned above (one trip to the track). It went 115.5MPH at Maple Grove. I found out upon my return home that I only had 30 degrees of total advance. It feels MUCH stronger now with 36, and I can't wait to see what it'll 60 ft and MPH with the changes.

It's been said before, but fixing the 60' will improve everything down the line, save for MPH possibly. Big heavy cars need to get out of the hole quickly in order to run a good number. That's why sock eliminator cars run such loose converters and low gears. Good luck.

Assuming its all done "right", I would expect to see 675-700hp on the dyno from that combo.
It usually easier to make power than it is to make your car go fast.

I wish , my 68 Satellite is around 3660-3700 with me and I'm built like a whippet.
I have all the aluminium engine add ons , fibreglass bonnet and front bumber , aluminium wheels . I am not sure I would get that low without gutting the interior - removing bench seat heater etc
You are going to have to help your 60' first then look from there .

Tex

the car is 3750 with me in it
I have a sumped tank with a -12 from tank to pump-10 from pump to reg. and 2 -6's to carbs,it's a aeromotive a1000

Dwayne do you think the roller would live with the street driving?
Put viking double adjustable shocks on back and never seen much change there either,to me it seems like fuel,but maybe that is just all it has,you would still think with all the changes it would show some sort of change one way or another

My roller lives just fine after many years but has mellow lobes and moderate spring pressures like 235-600 lbs...........

Wallace calc says 128 at 3750 = 566.8 hp. Maybe time to put the car on a diet, dial the suspension in, add 500 stall to the coverter and fit a bigger roller.
Mick

For reference...my cuda at 3700 lbs went 10.40 at 129 mph w/ a .030" over 440, 14:1, UNPORTED Indy SRs, 262°/268° @ .050", .660" lift solid roller, an old Team G intake w/ a dominator, 727, 5k stall, 4.10s and 28x10.5 tires.
It also 60 footed soft...1.49 was the best it ever went. I believe that motor made somewhere around 620 hp at the flywheel. It put 508 hp to the rear wheels on a Dynojet chassis dyno.

A roller will live a long time on the street...no problems there, especially if you let Dwayne match the components.

You do have a return in your fuel system right?

The moroso chart shows 605hp for 3750 and 128mph.

If it's a motor I've dyno tested, then I like to see the corrected power and the moroso chart within 10%, as a yardstick of the cars effeciency.

If this car, for whatever reason, is still nearer the 10% end of that range, it would be close to 675hp at the crank, corrected.

If you buy "good" roller lifters, and don't get a cam with the lobes set on "kill", along with moderate spring pressures to go with it, with annual use of around 2000 miles, I'd say you could have good success running a roller.

Eddie...... Do you think it's dead hooking now? Or at least was on its best passes?