[/quote] MR.P the title of this thread was fast leaf spring guys inside.. my question to you is how fast have you been on a leaf spring naturally aspirated.. [/quote]

Never mind then... yes your faster quicker than my old
62 LEAF SPRING car was .. and that N/A...
EDIT
I will tell you how I could 60'so well back then... I
clamped a 3/8"thick piece of spring steel to the front
segments so it was damn near a sold front

Just recently I was running a qa1 single adjustable on a very soft setting starting at zero I was at 6 out of 16.. when the car was producing its best 60 foot... on your guyses advice.. I purchased a set of double adjustable shocks ... and have not been able to produce the same 60 foot.yet I'm working through.. I called to order Springs and this is what was recommended.. for my combination. I'm not saying that it's right.or that any buddies wrong... but one thing's for sure I will figure it out.... I'm not going to throw my hands up and go to a ladder bar or four link. Just like my Ritter block ran.. for two years before anyone else got one running.. and I shared all that information with others.. right now my car is only 1hun slower than the fastest leaf spring car in a class..

One hun is a TON in 60', just saying We do ok at 1.14, but still feel we can find more. Still working on converter getting it happy. We jumpded o a billet A1 7" this year and as with anything else its a learning curve. On the wheelie bars there seems to be about a 50/50 split in our class with sprung and unsprung bars. We have ours sprung but the springs are inboard not at the wheel. We tried unspring and it upset the car to much. As I am sure you have seen we have a very short wheelbase car that tends to hit the cars hard and just worked best for us. Also we have had our shocks back three times to be revlaved. Finally have them happy and working well. This stuff just takes time, money and parts.

No need to pick on MrP because he doesn't HAVE a leaf spring car. If you understand suspension, you understand suspension and how it works. Charlie Buck doesn't have a Pro-Mod, but I sure don't question him when he tells me something about one.

Now, on to the basic problem here. As covered at nauseum, the problem lies in the inability of the front segment to remain straight. You are winding it up, which rotates the housing and slams the bars. The fact that you run the bars bumper high and they still slam, tells you that you have a LOT of axle windup. The blocks position the housing well above the plane of the spring. This increases the leverage as the forces are driving the pinion as it tries to climb the ring gear and that lever is now not on the spring itself. You have increased the leverage with which it can wrap the front segment. Stiffer shock setting will slow the housing separation, but will do NOTHING to stiffen the segment. You ONLY stiffen the segment by actually stiffening it. You are NOT going to "trick" the car into acting like it's stiffer. It's stiff or it's not. A stiffer spring BEHIND the housing will not do dick to make the front part more stiff. It can't, that's mechanically impossible. You want to "try" something........take the front segment, clamp it flat and bolt a full length piece of 3/8 spring steel to it from housing to spring eye. Be sure and put it UNDER the spring, so that you can extend it under the eye. You put it on top and stop it before the eye, right where you stop is where it WILL bend it.

There was a reason "old school" guys who ran multi-leafs had a spring clamp at EVERY few inches in the front. MAKE THE FRONT SEGMENT STIFF. This mentality and fact has NOT changed over the years. To stop axle windup, you need a stiff, as close to solid front segment as you can get. You are off here, NOTHING else will help.

While the choice of "cool guy" parts for leaf cars has changed over the years, the basic premise of what you need to do has NOT. ALL rear suspension types do the same thing......prevent axle windup. Ladder bars came next and fixed that. However, as power increased, the short ladder bars pounded the tire too hard. 4-links were developed to in essence make a really long ladder bar to get the IC further out to reduce "hit" on the tire. So these days, with big power and leafs or ladder bars and their violent nature, you MUST have a really GOOD shock to try and control how violently the power can "throw" the housing, which is exactly what is happening. When you drop the hammer, the power is basically trying to throw the housing out from under the car. High powered 4-link cars beat heim ends out of lower bars and elongate bracket holes. WHY? because it is trying to roll the housing and the lower bar stops that. That little physics fact tells you why a front spring segment has to be super stiff on a leaf car.

To FIX a problem, you first have to understand the problem and what it is going to take to correct it..........Most don't

Stiffer rear seg. might HELP but it wont FIX the housing rotation.

The rear segment is mounted in a slider or a shackle......it's just going to move that mount further in lieu of bending the spring as the housing rotates. The rear segment only holds the car up. In the old days, we built our own spring packs. We might have 6 to 8 leafs in the front of varying lengths and only a couple behind the housing. Just whatever we needed to get the desired ride height. My BEST older springs, I de-arched the front half and added a bunch more front sections, drilled through and put a 1/2" bolt where every leaf stopped, as well as welded a gusset from the eye to main leaf, to keep eye from bending. I also ran a link bar from that gusset to top of housing above spring mount, with left and right rod ends so that I could tension it. You could bend the front segment, but it took a press with a lot of juice on it to do so, then with link mounted, it was as close to solid as you could get. This was in a leaf spring class, before all the cool guy parts you can buy now, so we had to build our own stuff and it worked GOOD

A current picture of Ron's car, as in today at track. Just see good shocks.

Inch and a half or two inches of lowering block can't tell

^^ nice unit.. just don't like the fact they hang below the rim.

wow the fastest leaf spring car in the country and it has lowering blocks lol I guess he has the wrong leaf springs ...

The lowering block bring in the caltrac bar
sooner..due to the leverage

His sons ultra car only has 1/2 inch lowering blocks on it. I would assume it because he runs on less of a tire then Ron does.

Notice how thick his front segment is compared to the rear?

Well also take note of the wheelie bars........

As pointed out the blocks change the leverage point. Well and the ride height.

I'm running the same amount of lowering blocks

Not familiar with the car in those pictures personally. Is this a power adder car or NA. I assume it is a power adder car, based on the fastest leaf spring car comment(thought what was Jimenez??) which is an entirely different deal for sure. That ia as much about power management as anything else. NA cars don't really respond to aggressive timing ramps or rather having a lot of timing pulled at the hit. What I mean is they do not bounce back like a power adder car will from pulling timing.

I believe Ron Rhodes has taken.. the title of fastest leaf spring from (((Jimenez))))

He has been 4.48@156 and has run some 7.0s letting out around 1100 or so feet, out of gear or rpm. He has been 1.04 60ft numerous times.