AndyF - why such conviction with the traction bars?

GoMangoCuda - I installed new ESPO Springs 'n Things stock springs on my 72 Imperial and it raised the car about the same as TomRR's Road Runner; about 2 inches.

I'd try a cheap set of clamp on slapper bars. The idea that you can't use them on Mopars is just plain stupid. It's a piece of metal with a rubber bumper on it, it doesn't care what you put it on. Are their better choices? Sure. But in the end all you are doing is stiffening the front section of spring.

Any car guy alive in the 70s knows slapper bars were a Day 2 item on most every leaf spring street car no matter what brand it was.

I can honestly say that I have owned and raced a lot of Mopars and have never experienced wheel hop. The first question that I would ask you is if the factory installed low pinion snubber is in place. If it is, I am a bit surprised that you have wheel hop, especially with new Hemi springs. If the factory snubber is in place, I would try using the spring clamps on the front sections of the leafs and see how that helps. I ran an adjustable snubber for years on the street with few problems, but if you hit a major bump, you felt it! I sure would run the adjustable snubber before I would put traction bars on it. Like everyone has said, if you decide to go with SS springs, that will eliminate the need for any of the other fixes. Personally, I think you can make what you have work.

The theory on slapper bars on a Mopar is that they can cause the rear axle housing to twist. Might work out that way with consistent use on a drag strip, but I don't see it as an issue on the street.

Wheel hop is caused by the leaf spring loading and unloading (the front 1/2 of the main leaf is twisting) because the rear axle is rotating and the weak spring is giving in both directions and is whipping back and forth lifting the tire off the ground as it whips. Clamping the ends of each leaf on the front 1/2 of the leaf makes it very hard for the main leaf spring to twist because it has the other leafs stiffening it. What is used to clamp the leafs together isn't as important and the actual clamping is. I've used the screw tightening type of hose clamps successfully.

Slapper bars are bolted to the leaf springs on both sides of the rear axle, and the rubber end sits against the leaf at the front end, basically stopping the mail leaf from twisting. Slapper bars can cause the leaf spring to bend at the point the rubber contacts it, if there is a lot of movement before the rubber contacts the leaf.

The axle housing concern is because the rear axle rotation begins at the driveshaft, in the center of the axle housing. The adjustable pinion snubber is bolted to the housing above the driveshaft connection and it makes contact with the floor pan before too much axle housing twist can occur. Since the traction bars, and leaf spring clamps are all at the leaf spring area, the housing can twist more before it is controlled, and then the control is pretty abrupt. The super stock springs are stiff enough they eliminate the main leaf twist before it can happen, and the axle twist is softened by the spring resistance rather then a mechanical stop. Mopar always suggested both the super stock springs and the adjustable pinion snubber.

As always, most traction issues are addressed as a full racing situation, and deal with the most extreme results that can happen. Street action seldom sees the extreme results that full racing does, however, time does take its toll eventually. If your heavy street racing every night, all night long, extremes happen much quicker then an occasional once a week romping, unless your luck sucks.

I suspect clamping the ends of each leaf on the front 1/2 of both springs will probably solve the wheel hop issue. Gene

Nicely explained. I would love to see someone with AndyF's type of talent design and sell a stout, compact, retractable pinion snubber, so we could have a smooth ride on the streets and easily remotely extend it when its time to launch.

Chevy's a Fords with rear leafs use symmetrical lengths, Mopars do not, the front half is shorter and thereby stiffer, sort of a built in traction device. Wheel hop hasn't really been an issue in any street Mopar I've driven.

I ran a snubber for nearly 40 years with clamped springs a on various cars. I made the clamps out of 3/8" x 1" steel with 3/8" grade 8 bolts. Used 2 in the front and one on the rear. I didn't have the cash then, and still don't to buy super stock springs or anything else . Note my Barracuda launching off the line with clamped springs and a snubber. You can't tell me it doesn't work.

I just wanted to THANK EVERY ONE for all the Help And Advice !!



Thank You All

Tom C.

I made my own clamps, but some crash derby guys have found some cheap clamps here. They are actually shackle straps but can be used as a clamp bracket. You cant beat the price, add in your grade 8 bolts in your needed length from any hardware store.

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/TruRyde/TRSL350.html

IMO, you have nothing to lose by trying some clamps first. Easy and cheap. I think 5 clamps would be enough. But Id buy enough plates for 6 clamps.

So you would need 12 plates @ .75 = 9.00
12bolts,nuts if by the pound, ??--= 5.00

So you use 5 or 6 clamps per side?

And do you space them evenly or bias towards the front where they flex the most?

Thanks, Joe

Sorry, No, Not per side, but usually 5 Total should be enough, 3 on the passenger side and 2 on the driver side. But you can start with 3 on Each side. 2 in front, 1 in back Each side.

You can dance them around to different points to vary the control. You space them to best control the flex. So you wouldn't put them right next to the axel or right at the front. Use your head on the best leverage point for the clamp.

Without looking, I believe Mopar suggested that you clamp the end of each spring leaf on the front 1/2 of each spring pack. The longer spring leafs will have more effect then the short ones. Gene

This is a timely thread for me. Just started driving my '65 Belvedere and I think I have problems. As I ease into the throttle on a roll, the car feels like it stops accelerating when I hit about 75% throttle. I thought it was just spinning the tires but I got under there today and found that it had broken the rubber snubber off of my Mancini pinion snubber and that the diff had hit the exhaust.

Now I'm wondering if what I was feeling is the diff jumping off the ground. The leafs are original, I think, I left them in because I liked the stance of the car. Would SS springs raise the rear of the car at the curb?

Added one clamp to the front and one clamp to the back of my leaf Springs

Wheel Hop FIXED !!!!!


Thanks Again For All the Advice !!

Tom C.

success tastes really good ! glad you got it fixed and relatively easy at that !