Just looking at the past picture and the wheelie bar info pretty much says it all. If it isn't separating and the bars move 13+ inches the front segment of the spring is bending.
Doug

Sooo i have been watching this and here is my take. Having a 3600 lb 8 second caltrac car that had a huge wheelie problem so we put bars on it then had a tire unloading problem we learned a lot. First shocks have to be able to get extension real tight. Afco do not get there unless you send them back and ask to get them revalved. a leaf spring set up even with caltracs and tight shocks separate. So wheelie bars come into play early in the hit. Your wheelie bars are way too long so they come into play even earlier . Calvert seams to have a hold of this by his designed wheelie bars that actually work with his caltrac bars. As the rear end starts to rotate his wheelie bars actually plant the tire harder and not unload them. If you are hitting the tires with everything you got it is all wrong for what you have. Lowering blocks even hurts it more because it is changing its leverage advantage to point that it is out of control. Put correct springs for height , shorten wheelie bars or get calverts and get shocks valved to be able to tighten more. you said that if you tighten shock more it really blows off the tires yes because your hitting the wheelie bars to early not letting it pitch and rotate. hope this helps.

This car does NOT need to pitch rotate to work, it just needs to be set up right. The reason you don't see separation in the photos is because it happens so fast. With the extension set soft, it slams the tires hard at the hit and then sucks the tires back under the car, pretty much stopping any separation or weight transfer dead in it's tracks.

The long bars are fine and will work with leafs, but you have GOT to stiffen up the front segment and stop the axle wind up. I have toyed with the idea of basically eliminating the front segment, replacing it with bars and links, like a short ladder bar and then just using the rear segment to hold the car up.

You would basically clamp the rear leaf like it is now, with no front segment. Put some ears on the bottom of shock plate and run a bar with rod ends to front spring mount. Tabs on top of housing with another bar from there, to right behind front mount. If it sounds like a short ladder bar, that's because it is.

Thanks got it

That is not Ron Rhoades car. Or not a current picture of it. The car has santhuff shocks and Calvert bars. Not afcos and smith racecraft bars.

you could be right it might not be his car or it could be an older picture . But the story was about his car and those were the pictures of the chassis. Older article

OK, I mean you guys are kinda crazy...Monte knows his $hit...it would be very wise to listen to his FREE advice...I did and my car came around very quickly and from there learned a lot about setup...
I'm just sayin...you might want to listen and try it. Don't think you have much to lose at this point, but you have a lot to gain!

Brian

This.

Video would be your friend here. Cannot rely on pictures as pointed out by Monte it is just gonna depend on when the pic was taken. Now if you know the photographer and ask to see the entire sequence of pics he took, not just the one he wants to sell you them you may learn whats happening. We video EVERY run in pour car. It can tell you a lot especially when you slow it down. We have talked before and IMO listen to Monte. Your shocks are not doing their job, I'm sure video would confirm that. Even cell phones now take good video that you can go frame buy frame on. Might give it a try.

Thanks guys It Ain't Easy doing it on leaf springs.. but I we'll figure it out.. I appreciate everyone's input.. eventually I'd like to put this thing right down on its 850 cert N/A smb leaf springs... not to mention win this race. And representing all of us mopar folks

Its a GREAT time to be a small block guy. The heads are pushing big block flow numbers and get the weight break in most of the classes. Good luck and go get them.

Don't want to Hi-jack the thread but I'm sorta at the same place with the wheelie bars, lowering blocks and too much axle rotation. I've tried working with what I got then sent my Afco off the shelf shocks to Menscer for a re-valve, haven't had chance to try them yet but it will be soon.

Yes keep us informed... I'm going to give the stiffer rear segment a shot.. if I can get 2 or 3 inches less axial rotation at the wheelie bar wheel... I think my problem will be solved.. if not I'll re valve the shocks..

Well I got the new rear segments... the ones on the car are 450 thick .the new ones are 500 thick.. I'm thinking of stepping up to the heavier duty front segment as well..but one change at a time out back.. also looking at adding Springs to my wheelie bars

Rear segment isn't going to help. Until you lose those blocks and stiffen the front, you are fighting a losing battle. Springs on the bars won't matter either

Your wasting your breath.. or typing skills

don't hate congratulate. Mr. P how fast have you been on a leaf spring...naturally aspirated at 3080 pounds

I think his point is that NUMEROUS people here have told you how to FIX the car, but nobody has told you what you want to hear, so you choose to ignore it all and do what you wanted to do in the first place.

How fast you have been doesn't matter

I dont hate.. but you dont want to listen.. Monte and others have
(including myself)said it wont help.. and in fact it will hurt..
but you still insist on buying the rear segment... its your car
so you can do what you want... best of luck to you
EDIT
years ago I was running 1.3s 60' in my old 62 with WAY
less HP and that was before all the fancy shocks of now

MR.P the title of this thread was fast leaf spring guys inside.. my question to you is how fast have you been on a leaf spring naturally aspirated..