http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/10522/10002/-1

Part # 555-10522.

Just used one in a wiring project in my duster and loved it!

Monte,would having an 8ga wire off the negative battery post to the body cause noise with everything BUT the lights grounded through a buss bar?

Cut em off.......put em on........LOL!!!!

I go through enough zip ties wiring a car to do 3 harnesses. I bundle as I go to keep things tight. Then you ad wires, rearrange, whatever, you cut them off and redo. I never just add more ties. I buy the small ones by bags of a 1000

Cool! I use the exact same bus bar and ARC switch panel!
I read your posts about grounding both heads and everything else to the bus bar and wired it up that way.

Thanks for the info!

How was the install on the ARC panel? Really thinking about one of those

Great post Monte and very nice work. Found a 10% off coupon from Summit last night so I am filling my cart and found this one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-gw15/overview/

I could see how the contacts may bounce in the non-energized position, but the magnetic force of the energized position should maintain that position? From the spec sheet I found (posted below) you would need 30g force non-energized?
Mounting position may have more to do with keeping moisture out of the assembly?

If you are worried, there are solid state replacements for the relay.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Hella-Solid...CFQ-oaQodtt0NZA


I found this data sheet:

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/418/NG_DS_V23134-X0000-A002_0315-572885.pdf

Shock resistance (functional)
IEC 60068-2-27 (half sine) 6ms, min. 30g.8)

Note: 8) No change in the switching state >1μs. Valid for NC contacts, NO contact values significantly higher.

The Thomas and Betts that I use are about $.35~$.80 each

If you have the wire you could save some money by purchasing from a marine supply. I paid $14 buck for the same one.

I have thousands lol

Several ideas here that need to be thought about.

Read sfi spec you can have holes in tubes. The size of the hole depends on the diameter of tube. Mike, Monte's within rules.

There are many approaches to grounding. Floating grounds have their place and most of the time the term is misused. Many in the real electronic industry have different ideas. We used floating grounds in radio and tv. You have to isolate with test equipment. In the home ground requirements change every year.

If your negative battery bus is not tied to chassis it is not ground. Ground is related to earth ground and is made theough carbon in rubber tires. I could see where there may be benefits to using an isolated negative. This way no current is traveling through chassis. The main rail the crank trigger wire is in is a non current carrying ground, well actually if chrome moly a resister. Pretty slick, if you understand why you did it.

I have a huge disagreement with the railroad industry, where I work. They ground everything. Then spend millions on lightning protection. Because lightning looks for ground. But, when you got two huge conducters running for miles at ground potential, and you use it for signaling, you really have little choice.

Some day I plan a total rewire. I just don't like anyones stuff sold to wire cars. The people who do this have a limited electronic knowledge. I don't have the time or energy to do this the way I think it should be done. Some are nicer than others. None would hold up in the rail industry due to vibration. Oh wait race cars vibrate all the time.

Nice clean work Monte. I look at anybodies wiring and take issue, including my own. When you do this 24/7 and the public depends on it. You'd better be right. Always looking for a better way.

Nice Work..... Quality wiring work and circuitry seems to be so overlooked and under appreciated on a race car.......

You do beautiful work Monte…... I always learn something from your posts.

Looks awesome Monte

I think how you have done the earthing is also referred as a "star" earthing system, they do this in music studios for the whole RF thing

A couple of months ago I found this following a link from a link....

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

Holey crap!!! $25k wiring job for your salt racer, wow. They seem to know their stuff though and if anyone can make it all the way through the (very long) page, the average joe on here would learn a thing or five from it

so does the ground bus get tied to the chassis at some point, or does one run a ground from the body/chassis at the battery - then another cable to the ground bus ? i like to use a bus whenever possible, but i have experience only on the "+" bus installation. the next complete job i would like to employ both. monty, please clarify. thanks !

Your best friend when it comes to zip ties.

Great looking work,the only concerns we would consider is that too many grounds at the same location as with too many positives at the same location can trigger interferences if one or more accessories have an issue.This can cause a electrical nightmare to find a problem.We eliminate this issue by having separate systems for ignition,fuel and cooling as well as any computer circuts.Sometimes moving grounds or positives for these main power accessories a matter of 6" to 12" apart can cause any interference or backfeeds to diminish and not create other issues.

White zip ties are for tying up the bag of shop garbage.

If you can find them (Fastenal, etc.) we prefer metal barbed, black UV resistant zip ties. Also, a "flush cut" dykes/diagonal cutter (Knipex is my favorite) is a must for getting the tails of the zip ties cut flush with the cinch end to avoid sharp ends.

Weatherpak connectors, buss bars, and weatherproof labeling will make your life much easier.

I have that zip tie tool also.. I wish
I would use it more often.. those SHARP
cuts sure will cut you up.. my hands right
now have about 15 small cuts from those zip
tie ends(from doing the MSD box)... 99% of
the ties I use are the black UV ones.. I have
bags of zip ties of assorted sizes

It never gets grounded to chassis.