If/when you decide to become real serious, ie - competition level - you'll want to lose all the weight possible... so, thumbs down on the Dana... too heavy. A well-built 8-3/4 will always get the job done. Dana's are awesome in strength and appearance, but they're overkill with the extra weight. Further, changing the center-sections on an 8-3/4 is quick and easy if you have different tracks that can justify different gear ratios... or even the simple chore of just trying different gears at different tracks.

Cause then I still have an 8.75, I don't want to worry with the 4 speed and sticky slicks or drag radials if I ever drag race the car. Buy once cry once...

If I had the skills and equipment and time I would go the home brew/junkyard route and by the time I paid someone to do it right I am back at the cost of a brand new improved Dana.

I would never put a Ford diff in my Mopar, sorry...might be stupid and bullheaded but my Mopars will stay all Mopar or at least oem style rear..

I appreciate all the input so far, thanks everyone!

I should have NEVER wasted my time & money on my 8 3/4 , another lesson learned.

Mine was 1/2" wall tube, a bare narrow housing was 68#, shipped by Dutchman in a cardboard box. Narrowing was $400 with the torino ends. The shafts are about the same price from most vendors. Brakes were $150 and I got the calipers from a salvage yard for $40. I also put in a 10.5" ring gear and a rebuilt power lock. I spent about 6 months collecting parts and building it. If you want instant gratification, do the strange, if you like to build...Tim

The truck housing are just heavy, I need to find out what an S60 housing weighs.

Ford 8.8 with factory rebuild able LSD and disk brakes is the way to go these days.

That is the rabbit hole I went down too, I am avoiding that again...

Care to elaborate? I thought the same thing about cost when building mine. After I did it, I was only a couple hundred dollars shy of having Dr Diff building me a Dana 60.

Exactly! by the time I got axles, tru-track, ect... I wasn't that far from a new Dana, and I still had an 8.75. I am talking about the 8.75 in my Challenger.

I run a Dana S60 from Cass with no regrets. Sold the stock 8 3/4 before I owned 2 of them.... by the time you buy all new parts I figured I might as well get the Dana and forget about it.

I'm now building an 60 with S-Trac, I built two 8.75's, spent money buying housings and centres, only to be very disappointed with the rattley Eaton TruTrac in both builds, Cass told me from the get go, just get a Dana.

rattley truetrac?

Google noisy TruTrac or
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1975902

I've busted way to many 8 3/4 rears over the decades on the track and street on B and E body cars, they aren't worth the effort/expense, I'll trade the weight of the 8 3/4 for reliability/stoutness of the DANA

My Charger is running a Dana 60, 4 wheel disc, 7/8" rear bar, 4:10 gears, 440/6, Keisler TKO 600 .064 OD, and yes, Green Bearings going on 12+ years, 40K+ hard miles, many different tracks around the country, Power Tours, street driven, etc with no failures, I beat the piss out of my cars, and expect parts to take it

So you have done road coarse kind of stuff with the green bearings? I know they are fine on the street I have them in the Dana in my dart.

Weird. I couldn't get 6k miles out of a set of green bearings in my Dana to save my life. I used to keep a spare set so that if I was at an event I could put on a fresh set if I felt they were getting too loose. They became a regular, annoying service item. I ended up selling both my Danas for Nodular, full floating Ford 9" and Ford 8.8s. the 9" is unreal compared to any of them but the 8.8's are a step up from the Dana and 8.75.

This is an ancient picture of my strange S 60 in my 1970 Dart. A great decision.

hmmm I was planning on the trutrac in my future dana, I love it in my 8.75. Is there a special bearing configuration I want or are the stock style bearings ok for side loads? What would be diff of choice?

Thanks for getting this back on track, I didn't want this to be a Dana vs. 8.75 argument.

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the 8.75, pending your HP and intended use they are fine, I loved the Trutrac operation in mine and would have stayed with the 8.75, but the noise was the issue, I can run either tapered or roller bearings in the Dana. I like tapered but might run roller as it's just a low mile street/strip car

Go with the Torino bearings, they are WAY more stout than anything that mopar put out back in the day. I would also do a powerlock. Tim