From first hand experience, what is the best way to prevent new oil pan gaskets on a 440 engine from leaking? My 440 is now a 505 ci stroker, using a Chenoweth main girdle, windage tray, and Milodon oil pan. It runs great, but the oil pan is leaking bad at the rear. The rear main seal is dry. I want to fix the oil pan leak right and be done with it.

I am considering using the Fel-Pro 1834 oil pan gaskets, or the Superperformance #2585 oil pan gaskets. Is one better than the other?

When using a two Fel-Pro 1834 oil pan gaskets with a windage tray, would it be most likely leak free using Permatex® Ultra Rubber Gasket Sealant & Dressing Part Number 85409, or……….by using Permatex® Ultra Grey Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker ? OR....don't use any sealant or silicone? Would this be the same for Superformance oil pan gasket #2585 ?


Fel-Pro 1834 oil pan gasket, 2 piece steel and rubber:

http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-det...&brandId=FL

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1834


Superformance oil pan gasket #2585

http://www.manciniracing.com/suoilpangase1.html

I have always used the Fel-Pro 1834 but I believe the guy that makes Superformance gaskets is a member here on Moparts. The Superformance gasket material is awesome.

que the GM clownt with his rant on different length oil pan bolts ... even though you have a girdle and his rant does not even have any thing to do with this ... in 3 , 2 , 1 ...

Use the superformance gasket and make sure you pan rails are nice and flat ...

Superformance, if you are going to buy one gasket from them make it the oil pan gasket. Cork oil pan gaskets want to compress to easily and bulge out, paper rips. Superformance stays nice and doesn't compress out of the side of the pan with 15 inch pounds of torque on each bolt. Hands down best gaskets I've seen, wish I had bought a whole kit from him before I got my engine half together.

No RTV. Let the gasket do the work, even with the cork fel pro junk. I smear a little where the timing cover meets the block though. Don't go crazy.

Use Perma-Tex Aviation Gasket Maker, let it set up, and DONT overtighten the bolts.

10 years with a 383, a 451, and two different pans... I've never had a pan gasket leak.

Having a good oil pan with a 1/2 pan rail helps , I put a small amount of silicone in the rear main center bolt holes and a dab at the timing chain seam . (1834 gasket with the steel core ) pan comes off 10 or more times a year same gasket .

The Superformance gaskets work well. I also add a little RTV at the rear cap area/timing chain cover. If the pan itself is suspect of not being completely flat a 1/8" bead of RTV between the pan and gasket will cure it. Mine don't leak a drop.
Doug

I agree that the Superperformance gasket works very well on a stamped steel pan or a fabricated pan with a solid rail. Another option for the fabricated pan is the windage tray from Jegs with the built in gasket. It is very similar to the reusable transmission pan gasket that Mopar sells.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/502001/10002/-1

Another SuperPerformance vote. Put it on dry with maybe some gasket sinche just to hold it in place on one side when assemled. No leaks whatsoever.


Best there is


Russ

After leaks with the Jegs composite windage tray/gasket, I returned it for a refund.
I now see they recommend using it with cast pans with solid gasket
surfaces, unlike the stamped pans.

Joe

Once you use the Superformance gaskets you'll wonder why you ever settled for the other gaskets out there.
I love leak free engines!
Keith

I can assure you will not find a better "Quality" oil pan gasket than what we offer here at Superformance Products.

If you choose to support us here are some installation tips for your application.

1) As we all should know, clean, flat surfaces are a must with any gasket install. Pay particular attention to the gasket rail on your stamped steel pan and correct where needed.

2) When you are ready to install apply a 1/8" "BEAD" of Permatex Ultra Black directly to the oil pan rail perimeter. Also apply at the timing chain cover to block joint and the rear main seal retainer. You should need nothing on the block surface or the windage tray, given it's not bent out of shape.

3) If you wish to retain the gasket to the oil pan rail of the block for ease of installation while on your back under the car with oil dripping on your forehead
Apply a small amount of Contact Adhesive between bolt holes on the block and gasket and allow to tack up before attempting installation.

4) Once everything is in place with a couple bolts started. Install remaining bolts and tighten "just snug" to disperse the Permatex Ultra Black,

5) Wait 24 hours for sealer to cure then tighten all bolts to desired torque.

Here's the issues with using the "others"

F-P 1834, has a steel core and is pretty thick to use doubled up with a windage tray.

F-P 1808, good luck trying to get it flat on the front and back ends after it's been folded in 1/2 and rubber banded to cardboard tubes for who knows how long.

Milodon "Crush Proof", it's anything but and is one of the most economical materials on the market.

Jegs Polymer windage tray with molded in sealing beads has very little sealing contact area, less than any composition gasket.

Thanks for all the positive responses
Where else can you get direct feedback like this

I pretty much the same set up as the op, I had a rear oil leak and thought at first it was the rear seal, it was dry also, so I looked at the gasket and pan rail, both were good, then I noticed 2 marks on the inside of the pan where the rear main bearing girdle retaining studs were hitting the pan. Smacked the two marks with a ball peen hammer a few times and replaced the pan using the same gasket [ blue Moroso from AutoZone ] No leaks. Just my experience. you might want to look at your pan inside.

So will anyone be selling Superformance gaskets at the Detroit swap meet next Sunday ??

As many have already said..use the Superformance gaskets.My 440 is as dry as a bone.

When ordering #2585 is that for a pair or one gasket ?

Also do they sell a rear main seal ?

And some say to put #2585 on dry , while road hazard says put a bead of silicone on the oil pan rail ?


Bought a new reproduction stamped 402 oil pan and windage tray , want to do it right while motor sits in car

Thanx Scott

Listen to Road hazmat!!