A welding supply store is a great place to get really good cable..

With this attitude you will NEVER fix the problem.

There was a guy that was making up cable sets with larger gauge wire but people were pissing and moaning about the price he was charging and I'm pretty sure he stopped doing it, if you want to fix the problem you are going to have to make up your own cable set ... PERIOD.

The biggest problem with Chrysler electrical systems was created by Chrysler, pretty much the entire electrical system is undersized.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the OEM electrical system if it is installed, and maintained properly...

And not taxed beyond its capability...


I've been running totally original wiring for over 20 years with zero issues...And in some pretty brutal conditions...(Heat)...


And that includes battery cables...

You are in a small minority then

John we agree once again in a Blue moon.The amp gauge and bulhead were weak spots as were the cables.Even new the cables were marginal for a hipo motor.Got my 65 in 69 and the cables were iffy then.Rocky

Depends on how you categorize 'installed and maintained properly'...

If I make my own cable, would 2 ga be sufficient (and killing the fans)? 2ga can carry about 50% more current than 4 ga so would this be enough?

I think 2 gauge would do it with stock length cables.

blah blah blah ... see the title under your name ...

How many people on a REGULAR BASIS take apart the bulkhead connections ... and other hi current connections ... to clean and maintain the connections ... a SMALL MINORITY ...

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz...


You truly are a legend...


In your own mind...



I've seen you trash


8 3/4's...

Electronic ignition...

HV pumps...


And now, wiring...



However has Chrysler survived without you???


Are you a closet Camaro lover???

Just a thought. A few years ago I started having the same problem you describe. After changing starter, checking wire connections, etc., I found the problem to be my distributor. I use very light mechanical springs to have full advance above 1000 rpm. I found that the counter weights were sticking and not allowing the rotor to return to full retard when the engine was shut down. An easy check to see if this is the problem, is to run the engine up to operating temp. Shut it down and remove the distributor cap. Twist the rotor. If it moves counterclockwise, you found your problem. Again, just a thought........

**UPDATE**

I pulled the starter and the battery cable. Once I cute the harness tape of off of it and compared to a known 4ga wire, I think these cables are 6ga!

I am guessing my 2ga upgrade should be way better than what I have...

Also, when I went to loosen the solenoid terminal, the whole terminal just fell out.

So I think I had two problems...failing connection and 6ga cables. Wow how did this thing ever start??

Yea thats on the small side for the cables. Was it the solenoid terminal on the starter that fell out ? Glad to hear you found something. Ron

glad you found the problem ! it's a common misconception that if the diameter of the[assembled] wire is bigger, it's better. unless you know for SURE, such as in a cut away sample, it's just a guess. look at jumper cables as an easily checked example. there are an amazing amount of 'em out there that look like the best cables you will ever need in two lifetimes. till you look at the connection where the cable wire meets the clamps. then you find out the insulation is five times bigger than it needs to be compared to the wire size. same goes for battery cables. lots of insulation [correct color and diameter] not so much wire inside. this applies to standard parts store replacements and reproduction items equally. you should spin over with ease now !

She ain't starting hard no more! I took parts of the old cables I had and integrated the 2ga Summit cable I bought. I added some thermal sleeving to the first 16" of the leads going down to the starter where it runs near the headers.

I also got use the lifetime warranty and got a brand new starter from AutoZone for free. I have say I was impressed they didn't give me any trouble. They just looked it up and swapped.

I finished the cable last night and put it all in this morning. Man that starter spins that motor like RIDICULOUS fast! I warmed it up and got her good and hot. I stopped and started several times and that engine just fired right up in 1/2 a second!!!

Wow this may have been the easiest problem to solve on this car to date.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, guys!

Glad you got it figured out.

The internet is great for asking questions and getting ideas, but sometimes there is no substitute for just diving in and getting your hands dirty.

Sometimes you get lucky and the problem jumps out at you when you do...

Years ago when I had this problem the recommendation to go with "welding" shop cable was not only the gauge but amount of smaller gauge wires inside instead of less larger gauge wires inside the insulation...

Good for you. Its nice to have your Mopar working good. I would have been curious to just how much voltage drop the old cable had ? But glad to hear all is well for you. Ron

I can't tell you that but I have a feeling this was more starter and not necessarily the cables (though they were too tiny). I am guessing this because I have that thing spinning like a top hot and cold and I still have the old negative cable installed.

The negative cable is a 6ga+10ga lead so not much current carrying capacity however it is only about 18" long. I have the matching 2 ga negative cable to swap in. I just need to install it. Heck the starter might spin a teeny bit faster once that cable is swapped in.

Oh your right as I missed that you replaced the starter also. Thats what I get for getting old and reading to fast. Ron