Ron let us know how it works. I've run a chrome box, after mkt
coil & no ballast, but stock coil?? Now 4 pin mod, Mallory e coil
& no ballast. I hate those damn resistors!

In '83 I ran a '75 chebby HEI OE module with a std Chrysler electronic dist and an Accell super coil, the big yellow beast with NO ballast & it ran fine with no breakdown & started instantaneously (440 barracuda). Accell later told me to run a 0.7 ohm ballast in front of it. YMMV

At lot of our 40-50 year old cars have developed so much internal resistance in the wiring, that probably plenty of them can run without the ballast resistor by now.
I know my Dart had, until I starting noticing the voltage losses at connectors and old wiring.

If you want to 'check' if your coil will live without using a ballast resistor, try to feel how hot it is after a short drive.
If it's way to hot to the touch, it probably won't last very long.
Better use an infrared lasergun.

Let's get real, OK?

If you're going to put a $200 ignition box on the shelf because you are afraid of a ballast resistor failure you had better just park the doggone car and take the bus. The ballast resistor is one of the simplest solid state electrical devices known to mankind.

It is easier to change a ballast resistor than to change an HEI conversion unless it's mounted on a heatsink on the firewall.

Nothing wrong with the HEI conversion but it is only an option and there are plenty others. You can run 10s with quite a few different ignitions, including points. It is all about tuning the system.

The E-coil is more efficient than a canister coil, that's a fact. It is also sitting in junkyards by the thousands. Any coil that has the square laminations on the outside of the coil is an E-coil. Ford used them with their TFI ignition, like Tauruses. Or you can buy one on ebay for $12.00. I have posted that link before.

Ignition systems are mysterious to many in the car game, and that has allowed hugely inflated claims of power gain or voltage or any other factors. Most of these are hogwash, including what some pretty well-known manufacturers put in their ads.

R.

it depends on what ECU. the Blaster 2 is a full 12v coil. one example is if using the MP orange box or aftermarket equivelent, then yes, you would want the ballast.

If those Chrysler ebay HEI units are anything like the Ford ones I've seen, stay far, far away. I have seen many of them seize their shafts/bushings and rip the electronics right from the mountings. They are junk after that.

The voice of truth!
The ignition system needs to deliver a spark capable of starting to burn the air fuel mixture in the cylinder at the proper time. Rpm, compression, and timing have some limiting aspects to the function of the ignition system, but nearly any system can accomplish the deed up to and including 10 second quarters, something most street driven cars will never see.

The only remaining factors concerning ignition systems then becomes dependability and consistency. Properly cared for systems are very dependable, for the most part. Sure, someone some where has had an issue with anything available, but that does not neglect the fact that most are very dependable.

I believe consistency is a tuning issue, most would not install a system incapable of meeting their special requirements, so if the system is capable of the consistency, its on the tuner.

As always, over buying to a performance level you will not reach is usually a waste of money. I see a lot of people waste money on fancy ignition systems. Do you really need that ultra ignition system that has a questionable 10 HP increase at 10, 000 in a street driven car that will never see more then 6,000 rpm? Gene

AC DELCO 10474610

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/AC-DELCO-10474610-Ignition-Module-Cooler-Heat-Sink-for-Olds-Buick-Chevy-GMC-NEW-/350817689751?hash=item51ae5d2097:g:Bk8AAOSwJb9WsbPH&vxp=mtr

But its just a chunk of aluminum heatsink with a couple holes in the right places.....gotta run a heatsink with those puppies..

PLAZ

Thats just what I did using my orange box. After about 1/2 hr I shut it down and felt the coil and it was not hot at all. And of course the ign system will only put out what the setup needs to fire the plug depending on the full secondary system. Myself the Mopar ign has never let me down. I wish I had an old scope as I would like to check the reserve voltage my Mopar ign has with and without a ballast. Ron

It's a Mopar not a Chevy. Don't do it!